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Old 06-29-2003, 10:24 PM   #2266
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Sorry, I just checked out the site in hk, they seem to charge not that high, dont know why before they charged me $30, maybe with a car kit?
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Old 06-30-2003, 12:33 AM   #2267
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Quote:
Originally posted by Koya Dale.com
any of u guys experience that the SD seems to wander right and left in the straights? any tips this has been trully a great car and i was able to manage to get my SD much quicker than my losi. and thats only the 2nd race with the car. having lots of problem keeping it straight though thats why my race times were quite inconsistent but in single race laps i managed to surpass my losi by quite a big margin
Hi there,
I used to have a problem with the car wondering down the main straight too, the solution however, may surprise you

How old is the steering servo you are using? I solved the problem by fitting a new one. If your servo is OK, how much rear toe are you running? Check to make sure the kingpins are all in place, losing a kingpin does cause the car to wonder too.

Hope this helps
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Old 06-30-2003, 01:42 AM   #2268
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

STEERING WANDERING.

Possibly 2 causes that I have found so far. With the standard 4 degrees caster the car does tend to wander a bit down the straights. I fitted 7 degree blocks. problem solved.

I also noticed another possible cause. The link joining the two steering cranks runs extremely close to the rear pinot pin mount. The slightest bash and the mount moves slightly and hinders the smooth movement of the link. Temporary cure: loosen the two screws that hold the rear mount. Move it about a bit and re tighten.

As soon as I have some alloy mounts I shall machine that rear one slightly to see that this doesn't happen.

KILRUF.

Having had a look at pics of the track you used last weekend, I would agree with you that a spool was the way to go. Your tracks are always so technical. Without meaning to be insulting we refer to that sort of track as micky mouse!!!! You are constantly steering hard left to hard right so I really can't see any use for a one way.

Now lots of European tracks on the other hand are much larger and all the corners are long, fast, sweepers. This is where the one way does become a useful tool.

I intend to start playing with locked front diffs this evening. We will set up the trickiest, tightest, micky mouse track we can, and run on that. Our next big race is at West London in England and that is about half the size of our local track and very Micky Mouse, so we need to set ourselves up for that. There's also a 12 turn motor limit so I'll have to brush up on my 12 turn notes.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 06-30-2003, 01:54 AM   #2269
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i noticed that my shaft had slight wobble, when i took it apart and tried to check, i couldn't find any part that woobled, could it be the input shafts or drive cups?

Also, i had a slight binding with the rear diff, tried to blueprint the diff cases by removing some material from the diff case, didn't seem to work (when the diff case is loose, there is no binding) could there be other causes, where the bindinmg might come from?

thanks... - jason
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Old 06-30-2003, 02:20 AM   #2270
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull


FATBOY JOE.

Yes indeed. I run the AE shocks on both my Yokes and my son's TC3s. I find various advantages as follows:

The hex at the top of the shock body is great when servicing the shocks, using the plastic AE spanner. You don't massacre the shock body.

The shock holds a larger volume of oil.

The shaft is thicker and longer. I use their unobtanium shafts which are unbreakable.

I drilled a bleed hole on the top caps (ala Yoke) for making bleeding easier.

I find they are more leakproof than the Yoke shocks.

They take longer springs and allow for more travel.

Will be changing everything over to 12 turn mod on Monday, and will fit the locked front diff.

Will report later.

regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

hi joe, i have been using the ae shocks also, (had to... had some lacking parts with the yoke shocks )

what shock oil are you using? piston? one of my fellow racers mentioned that the ae shocks have a heavier dampening as compared to the yoke shocks? (assuming of course same oil and equivalent piston? any comment on this?

thanks- jason
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Old 06-30-2003, 03:57 AM   #2271
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actually i checked everything if theres some binding whatsoever and found none. i noticed that when ever i tap the boards the trim will be slightly different... i run neg 1 of camber so think its in my camber settings, i use a sanwa WR digital servo which also i think is not the problem because it worked really well in my losi which i havent touched the steering trim for abt 2 months hehehe. Also tried shimming the axles like what glide 1 said... and still the same car became more stable but once i hit the boards the trim would change. and the tracks we usually run here is pipes so i really have to solve this problem.

johnbull: will try your mod on the caster blocks. are u using mr4 tc ones?
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Old 06-30-2003, 04:02 AM   #2272
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glide 1: any luck with the tc3 shaft mod?
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Old 06-30-2003, 04:24 AM   #2273
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highwayman: i seriously suggest seeing a doctor if your "shaft" wobbles! .... hehehe j/k
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Old 06-30-2003, 04:28 AM   #2274
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Jason,

I too had some binding with the rear diff... the solution was simple... I had not trimmed out the the black diff outdrives when I assembled the diff. I sanded the flashing (is that what you call it?... where the part was connected to the parts tree) and I got my diff buttery smooth...

good luck!
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Old 06-30-2003, 05:08 AM   #2275
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Guys there is still some confusion: Is a spool locked or not?

A few guys are contradictin each other.


There are 4 units to install in your car as i see it:
-DIFF (we know what this is)
-ONEWAY DIFF ( again we know what this is)
-Solid diff (i used one on my serpent impulse its a solid 100% locked diff)
-SPOOL ( according to LOSI it is very similar to a slipper clutch in wich its action is similar to a diff only alot tighter. Using slipper pad pegs instead of diff balls or slipper pads instead of diff rings.


Thanks
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Old 06-30-2003, 06:06 AM   #2276
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KoyaDale if you tap the boards and your trim changes I would check to make sure that your servo is secure in the servo mounts. I had the same thing happen when I ran my one Schumacher car and it was because my servo moved every so slightly. The Servo horn could be slipping and jump teeth on the shaft, or the servo is just not centering. I would put in a digital serov if you don't already have one. I use the Futaba 9550 Digital serov. It is same width as a normal servo but is half the size from front to back as most servos are. It is like a wing servo for a plane. Surikan uses them in his Evolution 3 and 414M2 and won the Worlds with that servo in. I tried one and don't use anything but them now.

To me a spool is totally locked. No matter how much you try to spin diff the outdrives don't move. The outdrive should break before it ever moves. Never thought of trying the roulin peg setup like traxxas has on their slipper clutches. Might work close to the same a totally locked spool if you tighten the diff screw enough.

John Bull a 12 turn limit is nice and will be pretty easy on the batteries. Try that locked spool front diff setup. It works pretty well and since you already have 7 degrees of caster that will already take care of the normal understeer you get when going into a slow corner.
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Old 06-30-2003, 06:16 AM   #2277
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

HIGHWAYMAN.

I use AE 40 oil, No 2 pistons in all 4 shocks.

I am also using the new "bubble type" Yokomo shock caps as supplied with the SD, but leaving everything else AE as it is. It gives the shocks a more progressive feel both in bump and rebound.

KOYA DALE.

Yes, the caster blocks I use are straight forward MR4 Tc replacement parts. I happen to use the Fastrax Alloy 7 degree ones. The standard 7 degree Yokomo plastic ones, or the Team Suzuki 7 degree alloy ones will do the same job.

LIGHTWEIGHT PROP SHAFT.

Suddenly I have a choice. I have just received a consignment of Tobee Craft parts and I have to say I am impressed with their quality, presentation, etc. I will report on performance once I have tried some.

I started out with the standard Yokomo propshaft which weighs 12 grams.
I then shortened a TC3 graphite one which now weighs 7 grams. I used this successfully for some weeks in both stock and mod.
Last week I received the proper Yoke graphite one. It weighs 7 grams too and is a work of art. It's also very slim, which should help rotational weight.
Today I received the tubular Tobee TC3 shaft which weighs 8 grams, and the lightweight alloy Tobee one which is very smart and also weighs 8 grams.

Of this lot I will stick with the Yoke graphite one, which is among the lightest and slimmest, and looks great too.

JOEL LAGACE.

You are correct. There are 4 possibilities. I suppose the Losi slipper works like the slipper clutch used on off road cars.

I must say, I hadn't thought about that one, but it's certainly an idea. That would work on the same principle as the Salisbury Powerlock limited slip diff I used to have on my real race cars.

Definately one to try, possibly both front and rear!

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 06-30-2003, 06:54 AM   #2278
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

HIGHWAYMAN.

I use AE 40 oil, No 2 pistons in all 4 shocks.

I am also using the new "bubble type" Yokomo shock caps as supplied with the SD, but leaving everything else AE as it is. It gives the shocks a more progressive feel both in bump and rebound.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
thanks... when you say "bubble type" it includes the diaphram and shock caps?

are you using AE springs or yoke springs? if ever what springs are you using...?

thanks...
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Old 06-30-2003, 06:56 AM   #2279
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Quote:
Originally posted by ROBORAT
highwayman: i seriously suggest seeing a doctor if your "shaft" wobbles! .... hehehe j/k


-- you're a very funny guy...

but seriously, i haven't heard any complaints about my "shaft"
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Old 06-30-2003, 07:15 AM   #2280
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Quote:
Originally posted by jwwu
Jason,

I too had some binding with the rear diff... the solution was simple... I had not trimmed out the the black diff outdrives when I assembled the diff. I sanded the flashing (is that what you call it?... where the part was connected to the parts tree) and I got my diff buttery smooth...

good luck!
i just checked my rear diff and the "flashings" are already removed...

what i noticed was that if the rear diff case cover wasn't installed the diff was smooth, when i tightened the cover, there is the slight binding...
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