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Old 06-24-2003, 08:59 PM   #2161
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
TYRES & WHEELS.

Have any of you guys using rubber tyres experimented with different wheel rim widths on asphalt / tarmac?

The regulation widths are 24mm or 26mm. Some of the top guys seem to be running 24mm tyres on 26mm rims. I tried them over the weekend and the car did feel better - and the tyres wore alot better too.
personally i also feel 24mm rubbers on 26mm wheels do feel better. they do wear much more evenly as well but wear out a bit faster since the tires are stretched out more to fit the wider rims. ive only tried them indoors though (both on carpet and asphalt) dont know how they'd perform outdoors (might overheat faster but im only guessing) compared to the usual 24-24 wheel & tire combo.
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Old 06-24-2003, 10:30 PM   #2162
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Default MIP Aluminum CVD's

RC-Zombies - I bought the MIP Aluminums for the rear and they fit perfect. I just bought the Front CVD's and tried one of the two on the car to compare with the stock ones and fount the MIP to bind against the bottom of the One-way diff cup thus limiting suspension travel... Is this due to a setup difference in our cars perhaps? Or maybe the Shiny MIP bones are shorter than the Aluminum?

Anybody played with wheelbase on the car yet? I'd like to know if there are any benefits there...
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Old 06-24-2003, 11:53 PM   #2163
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VenumRcR, the front bones or CVDs are longer than the rears on the old MR4-TC. The new SD car uses the same front and rear axles as the old car, but uses the old rear bones front and rear.

I got this tip from Chris T, you just grind down the ball on the bone even with the pin, and they will fit fine. We are using the old Yokomo hardened universals in the front with this mod and it is working very well.
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:49 AM   #2164
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Just got back from SoCal and the SD's first outing. Practice was going great, ran 3 packs, and by the 4'th I had the fastest car on the track, none of the other modified drivers could keep up with my SD! Went out for my last practice before the race, car was handling great, then all the sudden the car took off. Hit every cement wall on the racetrack, broke the front arm, driveshaft, hinge pin mount, and both one way outdrives flew off onto the track (I was only able to find one). Had to switch to my spool setup, and it all went down from there. They mixed sportsman and pro modified, so we got thrown in with a bunch of hacks that kept taking me out... broke the first round. Ran the entire second round and took 2'nd. 2 laps into the main I was cruising down the straight when one of those sportsman drivers pulled out in front of me, my bumper locked under his and we both went to the wall. My batts fell out and it literally ripped the internals from my Quantum.

I'll get the car back together and be back out next week for racing, just wish I didn't have to spend so much in broken parts today.
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Old 06-25-2003, 01:53 AM   #2165
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Quote:
Originally posted by pops
VenumRcR, the front bones or CVDs are longer than the rears on the old MR4-TC. The new SD car uses the same front and rear axles as the old car, but uses the old rear bones front and rear.

I got this tip from Chris T, you just grind down the ball on the bone even with the pin, and they will fit fine. We are using the old Yokomo hardened universals in the front with this mod and it is working very well.
i do the since the reedy race
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Old 06-25-2003, 02:03 AM   #2166
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johnbull: does the tc3 conversion shaft break easy?

Hi. Don't know. I've never broken one yet, and it's been used in both stock and mod.

RANDMAN.

Endurance racing. Great fun! Saturday's do is a 2 hour affair.

The rules say: Only 1 touring car, 1 transmitter and 2 drivers and a pit man. Obligatory driver changes every 10 minutes. Teams to consist of 1 expert driver and 1 beginner driver. Control stock 21 turn motor.

It works very well. I went down testing both my SD and son Josh's TC3 yesterday. Did 40 minutes running with the TC3, just playing with gearing and speedo and transmitter settings to try and get the best out of 10 minutes from a pack of 3000 cells - not easy believe me.

I guessed the gearing for the Yoke and did 1 x 10 minute run but went flat at just after 9 so will have tp play a bit more with gearing.

We're down again this evening.

The biggest problem is going to be chargers. We are going to need a whole load of them to keep us running for 2 hours.

Will report back tomorrow.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 06-25-2003, 07:09 AM   #2167
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Default Alloy battery brace

Hello Yokomo addicts!

I'm searching a Alloy battery brace for my SD, cause the plastci one is really ugly and too soft. Does anyone know, if the one from the older Yokoe will fit? And if yes, please post the order number, as It's really hard to find things on th official yokomo web site

Thanks in advance and greetings from cooking swiss!
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Old 06-25-2003, 07:56 AM   #2168
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Randman that sounds like a day from hell if you ask me. Good thing is that they have parts for your car and that it was dialed in to the track. Too bad to hear your new SD took a beating. Damn I hate when my batteries fly out. Then the shrink gets all ripped up and all my batteries look like new even if they are a year or two old so that would make me the most pissed off.

VenumRcR nice breakdown of the drive shafts and axles for what fits the SD. I made sure to right that down so I can order some MIP CVD's for my car sometime down the road if I can't get ToBee alum. drive shafts anytime soon.
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:12 AM   #2169
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I was definately dissapointed overall, but still happy with the SD's performance. Luckily I ordered a bunch of spares from Steve, and I had everything I broke in stock. I just found out that the motor cutout in the chassis has also been chewed away very badly, I'll have to post pics of it... really ugly, may buy a new chassis.

I'll tear the car down today and try to figure out if there are any more parts that need to be replaced, hopefully I wont run into a lot of them.
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:42 AM   #2170
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I am hoping those XRay drive cups to work for sure, I just ordered the spring steel ones. They look like they'll be lighter than stock, and I know XRay parts are durable..
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:46 AM   #2171
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Quote:
Originally posted by Randman
I am hoping those XRay drive cups to work for sure, I just ordered the spring steel ones. They look like they'll be lighter than stock, and I know XRay parts are durable..
yes..they are slightly lighter than stock...also the drive cups are about 1mm longer. so far...don't have any problems with them binding with the bones...
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:48 AM   #2172
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Default Re: MIP Aluminum CVD's

Quote:
Originally posted by VenomRcR
RC-Zombies - I bought the MIP Aluminums for the rear and they fit perfect. I just bought the Front CVD's and tried one of the two on the car to compare with the stock ones and fount the MIP to bind against the bottom of the One-way diff cup thus limiting suspension travel... Is this due to a setup difference in our cars perhaps? Or maybe the Shiny MIP bones are shorter than the Aluminum?

Anybody played with wheelbase on the car yet? I'd like to know if there are any benefits there...
rc-zombies, do you experience this problem?
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Old 06-25-2003, 11:51 AM   #2173
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Default Re: Re: MIP Aluminum CVD's

Quote:
Originally posted by forty6
rc-zombies, do you experience this problem?
I haven't had any problems with the MR4TC front cvd's binding.
I did try putting the shorter rear CVDs in front...It will not work!
The rear bones are too short for the front when running with a front one-way...the drive pins are at the very edge of the cups.
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:07 PM   #2174
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Default Re: Re: Re: MIP Aluminum CVD's

Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
I haven't had any problems with the MR4TC front cvd's binding.
I did try putting the shorter rear CVDs in front...It will not work!
The rear bones are too short for the front when running with a front one-way...the drive pins are at the very edge of the cups.
So if you are running the regular diffs up front, you shouldn't have problems with the rear MIP CVDs for MR4TC. Is this correct?
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Old 06-25-2003, 12:09 PM   #2175
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: MIP Aluminum CVD's

Quote:
Originally posted by Headbanger
So if you are running the regular diffs up front, you shouldn't have problems with the rear MIP CVDs for MR4TC. Is this correct?
I haven't tried the fit with the regular diffs...
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