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Old 06-23-2003, 10:41 PM   #2146
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
I guess it's just my bad luck streak right now. Been that way for the last 2 weeks. It's gotta end now though!!!! Here's my 2 broken Tobee Craft drive shafts with Square Ti axles.
Damn, what wind are you running? I am running the same setup but with 12x1 and one-ways, no problems....yet.
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Old 06-23-2003, 11:03 PM   #2147
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Originally posted by rc_bam226
Hey Kilruf, where did you get the Ti axles from Square?

As for my previous posting, I have been informed.
Rainbowten has the titanium axles
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Old 06-24-2003, 02:05 AM   #2148
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Originally posted by ROBORAT
if you read the TC3 thread, there was some discussion a few pages back about the new white gears that come with the FTTC3. i believe they were not all that happy with the new white gears and were actually saying that they were not as durable as the old black ones. another thing, they are not delrin. delrin is white as white can be while the new TC3 gears are a bit off-white (creamy). now whether the yok gears use the same material, i wouldnt know. i think the trick is to get the gears to mesh as close as possible without binding. anything too loose or too tight will be prone to stripping.

i would consider what SpeedTech mentioned about Adachi's gear break-in regimen. it might be good to start off with a tighter mesh then break them in til they free up enough to remove any slight bind before actually running it at the track.

... just my 2 cents.
the NTC3 has the new white gears, and they're suppose to be stronger than the black ones... yep, they're not delrin, but NTC3 users have given very good feedback on the white gears... i have them on my NTC3...
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Old 06-24-2003, 02:47 AM   #2149
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highway: well, i havnt had experience with them, and probably never will since i sold my tc3 a while back. just picked up the comments on the white gears for the tc3 in the tc3 forum. but like i said, whatever the gears, its a matter of setting them just right that would dictate if they'll strip easily or not. id put in a little extra effort when setting the gear mesh in the gearboxes inmy tc3 to get it just right. i'd like to take a look at koya's SD and see how his gears are.... although im sure he can figure it out himself.
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Old 06-24-2003, 03:58 AM   #2150
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Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

Haven't posted for a couple of days. Been busy updating our club website with results, race reports, pics etc. Check it out.

www.irmcc.com

WYD.

Good to hear you are pleased with the SD. I won the last round of our championship with mine on Sunday, and even loaned the old Special to a friend. You can read all about it in our site.

GLIDE.

You asked about how I glued the centre shaft. Remember you only need to cut one end of the TC3 carbon shaft. When you have the right length - by comparing with your stock Yoke shaft, just glue with Araldite. It's probably the best glue for the job.

KOMKIT.

I have had no problems using the normal alloy Yokomo dogbones that come with the belt drive MR4. I have some Tobee ones on the way. Hope they will be man enough for the job. Certainly their price is right.

TYRES & WHEELS.

Have any of you guys using rubber tyres experimented with different wheel rim widths on asphalt / tarmac?

The regulation widths are 24mm or 26mm. Some of the top guys seem to be running 24mm tyres on 26mm rims. I tried them over the weekend and the car did feel better - and the tyres wore alot better too.

ENDURANCE RACING.

Changing everything this week to run the car in a 2 hour endurance on Saturday. Should be interesting. We start practicing this evening.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 06-24-2003, 04:48 AM   #2151
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Quote:
Originally posted by KilRuf
I guess it's just my bad luck streak right now. Been that way for the last 2 weeks. It's gotta end now though!!!! Here's my 2 broken Tobee Craft drive shafts with Square Ti axles.

Sorry to hear that... JUST quit running the 6X1.

Tapped the wall? That's why I wanted the steel one. If I hit hard its will bent but at least I can finish the heat.
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Old 06-24-2003, 04:54 AM   #2152
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnbull
Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.


KOMKIT.

I have had no problems using the normal alloy Yokomo dogbones that come with the belt drive MR4. I have some Tobee ones on the way. Hope they will be man enough for the job. Certainly their price is right.

So, I can get the MIP Bone that made for MR4-TC?

I think MIP made one, I checked the MIP website there were front and rear which will fit the SD?

I bought some used steel off from a guy that replacing them with the Tobee one. At least I'll some spare for the time being. Will be running EPIC 8x1 this weekend, hope I can stayed out of the wall

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Old 06-24-2003, 08:18 AM   #2153
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Johnbull- Heard of endurance races in nitro, but how do you do them in electric?

Getting ready to head up to SoCal, going to give myself about 7 hours of practice to dial in the car and scrub in the tires before I race tonight, gonna be fun!
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Old 06-24-2003, 11:44 AM   #2154
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Randman let us know how it worked for you. Good luck tonight. Should be able to scrub those tires good with 7 hours of practice.
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Old 06-24-2003, 11:58 AM   #2155
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johnbull: does the tc3 conversion shaft break easy?
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Old 06-24-2003, 12:12 PM   #2156
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Quote:
Originally posted by komkit
So, I can get the MIP Bone that made for MR4-TC?

I think MIP made one, I checked the MIP website there were front and rear which will fit the SD?

I bought some used steel off from a guy that replacing them with the Tobee one. At least I'll some spare for the time being. Will be running EPIC 8x1 this weekend, hope I can stayed out of the wall


Yes the MIP's will fit with no problems...
I have them on my SD. Aluminum in the rears and Shiny bones in front for more durability.


And for those that have lost their one-way outdrives...
Xray and HPI Pro3 outdrives fit with no problems.
I really the Xray ones...made of spring steel and very durable.
part #305130
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Old 06-24-2003, 12:42 PM   #2157
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Yes the MIP's will fit with no problems...
I have them on my SD. Aluminum in the rears and Shiny bones in front for more durability.


And for those that have lost their one-way outdrives...
Xray and HPI Pro3 outdrives fit with no problems.
I really the Xray ones...made of spring steel and very durable.
part #305130

Very good info rc-zombies!!!!!! Thanks.
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Old 06-24-2003, 07:36 PM   #2158
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For the Square axles, if Speedtech don't get them in, try Rainbowten in Japan or RChub.com stateside to get the whole kit (front/rear).

For dog bones, I gotta get Ti.. hehe. One was a real crash up in the air and all. That was in Stock Class launching the car off of corner dots into the air and tumble tumble tumble. The others I have no idea. One second it's fine, the next it's spinning in one direction. Perhaps I grazed the wall barely. Or tapped a corner dot. But nothing that would have me worried with any other car I have owned. So I dunno. And I was only running a 10 turn... doubles and singles geared at 7.3 for the Durham track. So who knows. All I know is the Tobee Craft shears off right at the outdrive and the Stock Steel shears off right at the axle.

Anyhow, I hear Chris Toso is very fast at Durham. Friend was watching him run. Can't wait til official practice day Thursday to get some times in! Well let me run. Cutting out my Alfa 2.0 for this weekend. L8Rz

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Old 06-24-2003, 07:44 PM   #2159
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Kil...would be cool to have a setup off Chris' car....can you sponge that info off of him...lol Chris is a great guy and would be willing to chat. A pic or two of his car would be killer!

Good Luck SD's!

Jeff
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Old 06-24-2003, 08:05 PM   #2160
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Oh, I will most definately be looking him up!! I was gonna steel his setup for Mod Class, but since I'm not running that know, I'm not sure how a Mod setup will do in Stock. I'm sure it'll be okay. But we'll have to see. Pictures of course are a given... haha

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