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Old 06-17-2003, 10:16 PM   #2041
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steve:

Are these for the right side of the saddle pack? In place of the stick pack holder? I hope they are

Tobee Craft light weight Delrin cell seperater for MR-4TCSD
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Old 06-17-2003, 10:21 PM   #2042
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Joel,

Let me try posting some pictures.

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Old 06-17-2003, 10:22 PM   #2043
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and one more. Hope these helped

Steve Wang
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Old 06-17-2003, 10:22 PM   #2044
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Mo, Matt,

Thank you very much guys. It'll go out for you tomorrow and you should have it before the weekend.

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Old 06-17-2003, 11:24 PM   #2045
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Steve, I sent you a PM about those cell seperators
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Old 06-18-2003, 12:17 AM   #2046
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The cell seperators look like it would be a good idea, I'll be sure to get them next time I order from you, which will be soon since I want some spare parts. I should get my Speedtech order tomorrow (I love bieng close enough to where I get my orders next day) so I'll get some pics of the Tobee Craft stuff on my car.
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Old 06-18-2003, 12:24 AM   #2047
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Matt,

Sorry, I got a little confused by your PM. Did you want the center post? or the cell seperater? Just reply to my PM and I"ll add it on your order for you

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Old 06-18-2003, 12:30 AM   #2048
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I wanted the cell seperators added to the order, I replied to the PM as well

Thanks
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Old 06-18-2003, 01:17 AM   #2049
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Is the purpouse of the center stiffener mounts to tune the flex of the car a little more? And is there a difference in width between the white and black?
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Old 06-18-2003, 01:25 AM   #2050
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Hi guys. greetings from Malta.

Man this thread moves quick!

Last I was here was 18 hours ago. It's moved on 2 whole pages.

PAUL (Lonestar).

As you know from your recent visit to Malta we run both the TC3 and the SD. They are both excellent cars. Indeed son Josh won the National championship in mod with his TC3 and I won the stock championship, finishing the championship with the SD replacing the Special. I think the SD gets my vote simply because it is 3 years newer and has all the lessons learnt by other manufacturers. It's lots easier to work on too.

TOBEE CRAFT.

I have a load of Tobee Craft ordered to sell from my shop - and to use myself of course. Those battery holders are brilliant. Prices are good too.

CENTRE SHAFT.

I ran my SD for a week or so with it's own centre shaft but replaced it with a shortened TC3 one. I have been running mod motors for the last couple of weeks and have had no problem.

Son Josh has had the same graphite shaft on his mod TC3 for 3 years without a problem. It's probably got close on 100 hours use. We tried the new AE alloy shaft and he bent it on it's second pack so we won't be using that again. In fact what I have done is replaced the carbon shafts on the 4 kits I had in stock with the new blue ones, and hid those carbon ones in the "BOX FOR OUR OWN USE". This way customers get the newer shaft, and we're happy too.

SOREX.

The tyres in question were both S28. Both had the same Schumacher grey insert, and were both fitted on the same Orion rims. I suspect they must have been from different batches.

FINAL.

We have the final round of our championships this Sunday, so I will be reverting to stock for the last time. The special will be running too, as I am lending it to an English friend who is presently here.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.
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Old 06-18-2003, 01:49 AM   #2051
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youll have my order soon too
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Old 06-18-2003, 02:52 AM   #2052
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this sure is a quick moving thread!

thanks for the feedback yall. it's a very hard decision for me to take right now.

I like the newness of the SD, but I won't race it before november anyway (it's gas season right now), and I'm afraid yokomo will release a bugfixed version before that, in which case I won't forgive myself for buying it in June.

SD parts *should* not be a problem, but TC3 parts will however be available easier... I also checked my parts box, and I still have A-arms, shock towers, diff parts, suspension parts, ballstuds, kingpins, front oneway, etc... all new (last year's unused racing parts stock) for the TC3. That's quite a lot of cash in that parts box, and I'm kind of short of cash for the time being, thus it's a rather sensitive issue...

And finally, one thing I dislike about yokomo is their continuous version updates... there were something like 6 or 7 MR4TC versions in 3-4 years. I'm worried about my car being obsolete in one year, especially if they start with a graphite/plastic parts version that could very well happen early next year for instance. The TC3 only got semi-minors updates and is still going strong. And the current FT TC3 is a top performer right out of the box these days. However I'm kinda worried about the TC3 reaching EOL soon...

A word about resale value and changing brands. I lived and raced in the US for two years not so long ago... I had: YR4M2, IWC SW (x2), HPI Pro2, TC3, Schum Axis (x2).... Cars came in and went away in a few months. Here in Europe it's way harder, prices are steeper (add 50% to 100% to US prices for kits and parts), people tend to stick to their cars longer. It's also a PITA to sell a used car, even from a reputable pilot like me at a rock-bottom price, which is still kinda high because of the local new price. People just don't buy used stuff, I still don't get why... Oh well.

blah blah blah who cares anyway. I gotta pick one today...

Thanks for the help all who answered

Later
Paul
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Old 06-18-2003, 05:05 AM   #2053
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STEVE:

Thanks for the pictures those are exactly what the doctor ordered. I was looking at the car wondering how i could protect the pack that sits so close to the edge of the chassis. I grab a set next order....
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Old 06-18-2003, 05:36 AM   #2054
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Quote:
Originally posted by kidsafe
I just assembled and installed the front shocks on my MR-4TC SD and the edge of a bare wheel/rim rides very slightly lower than the chassis...between 1-2 mm. Is this normal, or should there be more clearance?
You seemed to get overlooked in the rush of the thread! Things to look out for here is the droop screw settings (manual suggests you put them in a long way), and also front shock length - 60mm is too short for the vast majority of tyres and surfaces. I run 63mm (short ends unscrewed with plastic spacer on shaft to hide threads), others run 64 (with long shock ends).
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Old 06-18-2003, 07:33 AM   #2055
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Originally posted by sosidge
You seemed to get overlooked in the rush of the thread! Things to look out for here is the droop screw settings (manual suggests you put them in a long way), and also front shock length - 60mm is too short for the vast majority of tyres and surfaces. I run 63mm (short ends unscrewed with plastic spacer on shaft to hide threads), others run 64 (with long shock ends).
Thanks a bunch. I switched to the longer shock ends and that did the trick. The listed 60 mm in the instructions is ridiculous!
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