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Old 06-17-2003, 10:47 AM   #2011
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Default GRAPHITE SHAFT...

I was shy to use it since i think it was going to break but it didnt but when you buy it the pins are in same position but after running it at the local track on end is 90degrees off from the other so im affraid its going to break. the car was run in stock and mod that day with a one way too.

anyone else have experience with the the shaft?
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Old 06-17-2003, 10:54 AM   #2012
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Default Re: GRAPHITE SHAFT...

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Originally posted by [email protected]
I was shy to use it since i think it was going to break but it didnt but when you buy it the pins are in same position but after running it at the local track on end is 90degrees off from the other so im affraid its going to break. the car was run in stock and mod that day with a one way too.

anyone else have experience with the the shaft?
the aluminum ends might have come loose is so..a drop of CA will hold it in place...
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Old 06-17-2003, 10:57 AM   #2013
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Default Re: Re: GRAPHITE SHAFT...

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Originally posted by rc-zombies
the aluminum ends might have come loose is so..a drop of CA will hold it in place...
No the ends didnt come loose you can actually see the strands in the shaft twisting and thats how i noticed it.
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Old 06-17-2003, 11:00 AM   #2014
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Default Re: Re: Re: GRAPHITE SHAFT...

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Originally posted by [email protected]
No the ends didnt come loose you can actually see the strands in the shaft twisting and thats how i noticed it.
never seen that happen before... not even when I had my TC3 carbon drive shaft....
in stock I don't see that happening...more likely in Mod...where there's more torque involved..
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Old 06-17-2003, 11:03 AM   #2015
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Default

A Durometer would only work on rubber, if the tires were the same , and it would only tell you which insert is harder than the other. also, Sorex does list the tire on the side wall, very small.
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Old 06-17-2003, 11:05 AM   #2016
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The Sorex Tires are marked on the sidewalls. You have to look real close to see the numbers on it. You might want to check what inserts you have for them. I am still looking for the rates for the Ray Speed springs. If anyone knows them can they post them for me.
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Old 06-17-2003, 11:15 AM   #2017
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tom M
The Sorex Tires are marked on the sidewalls. You have to look real close to see the numbers on it. You might want to check what inserts you have for them. I am still looking for the rates for the Ray Speed springs. If anyone knows them can they post them for me.

RaySpeed springs: soft to hard

RS yellow = AE Silver 14.5 lbs/in
RS white = my guestimate around 15.75 lbs/in.
RS red = AE Blue 17.0 lgs/in
RS grey = my gestimate AE gold 19.50 lbs/in.
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:04 PM   #2018
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More info on tamiya vs AE springs:

Associated White 40.4
Associated Yellow 33.8
Associated Purple 31.2
Associated Copper 24.6
Associated Red 23.2
Associated Gold 18.8
**Tamiya White 16.5
Associated and Tamiya Blue 16.3
Associated Silver 14.5
**Tamiya Yellow 13.0
**Tamiya Red 11.8
Associated Green 11.5
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:10 PM   #2019
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If I remember right, doesn't the TC3 shaft have a cross pattern weave, whereas the graphite SD shaft has carbon running just 1 direction? I don't know if I will keep the CF shaft in the car with modified motors, I am almost scared of it...
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:53 PM   #2020
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I wouldn't recommend the graphite shaft for mod racing, I split mine the first pack through it, granted I was running a 7x2 but I still wouldn't recommend it. It should be fine in stock racing though.
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:56 PM   #2021
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I think for mod racing, I am going to do the Johnbull TC3 shaft mod, I will be running a 8x2, so I'll have just about as much power as you were using.

Just got off the phone with Speedtech, they have Tobee Craft parts in stock! Cheap! I recommend anyone looking for Tobee Craft stuff hit up Speedtech!
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Old 06-17-2003, 12:56 PM   #2022
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I've heard some racers are cutting down the AE graphite shafts to use on there SD's...
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Old 06-17-2003, 01:39 PM   #2023
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Default advice needed quick

Howdy yall,

some friends are visiting me from the US to Europe in 10 days and I'm thinking about having them bring me a TC for indoor racing this winter. I have to order a car tomorrow at the latest in order to have it delivered in time.

I'm hesitating between two cars:

- a FT TC3, just like the one I sold two months ago. I still have a bunch of parts for this car, and I know it pretty well as a reliable performer. On the other side it's not "hype" these days, and I'm afraid I'll never have a chance to sell it later on, and I'd kinda like to try something different.

- a SD, because it's new, it's cool, and it's new and cool On the other hand, being new can be a problem since with increased complexity, the first few thousand users of a new car are actually beta testers...

soooo... I'd like you SD owners to tell me whether there are design/reliability flaws that would be enough for me to buy another TC3 which I enjoyed very much. I would like to avoid buying a new design like the SD and suffer from early bugs like my first TC3 had, since it took AE 3 or 4 years to get the car right.

Thanks for the help fellow racers!

Later
Paul
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Old 06-17-2003, 02:00 PM   #2024
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I really don't think there are any flaws with the SD. I am sure things will get improved on, but I havent heard of any problem spots on the car. I have heard it is a good idea to run a wider bumper on the front of the car to protect the castor blocks, because they are somewhat weak, but that's really the only thing I have heard you would want to improve on the car. There are already a bundle of hopup parts avalible for it, so if you do want to beef up some parts, it isn't hard to do.

I have run 3 TC3's in the past, and they are great cars, I just think that the SD is going to be the next big thing in RC racing.
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Old 06-17-2003, 02:08 PM   #2025
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about the shaft i believe that the NTC# shaft fits in the sd. my mod i was running was only a 10x2
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