Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

The chassis will flex more, propably give a little better traction on looser tracks. I thought the chassis flexed a little too much without the stiffener, but I wanted to get a little more flex than stock, so I went about cutting up the upper deck. I got the results I wanted, with a flex that feels "inbetween" having and not having the chassis stiffener. I also noticed that when I would twist the chassis by hand, the left rear of the car would stay tweaked up, and as soon as I loosened the screws on the upper deck, it would lay flat again. With the cut upper deck, the chassis holds no tweak. I will upload the pics of the upper deck right now, and post them in a couple mins.

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

cool prototypes...

was it hard to adapt the new shock towers?

johnbull

Hi guys. greetings from Malta.

STOP PRESS.

Just back from race meeting. Won both mains (A Finals) again and actually improved race time over 5 minutes slightly. best lap 22.90 whichares well with the 22.85 best i did 2 weeks ago on a cooler and cleaner track.

I'll report in more detail later.

For a full race report check out our club website www.irmcc.com
tomorrow.

Regards

Joe from sunny Malta.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Good job Joe, you made any more changes to your ride lately?

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

And here's the pics!

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

And for some reason the last one won't post, so here's a link to it.
http://members.cox.net/jdc3063/pages/DSCN1002_JPG.htm

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

Good job Mo.!

Can I make a suggestion.....on the shock mounting hole on the tower... if you drill them on a arc from one of the 2 middle holes on the arm, you will find that you will not have to adjust ride height. On my Xray this is what they have done. What ever upper shock location I choice...ride will always stay the same.

mo

iTrader: (7)

Testing went well today with the new towers. Everything held up well and had good alignment. The car worked even better than last time out.

One note on the rear tower, the body mount holes are about 2 or 3mm higher than the stock tower, in order to allow for more shock mounting positions. I was still able to mount my Losi Alpha and Protoform 2.0 without problems. It should only be a problem if you are already in the bottom 1 or 2 holes on the body mounts now. Are any of the bodies you guys run using those holes?

rc-zombies: The holes are at a slight arc actually. It's hard to see in the pictures though. When moving the shocks from the 2nd hole to the 4th hole, only a slight ride height adjustment was needed, about 1mm. If I arc them much more, the holes may get too close together and could become a weak point. I want to keep the holes fairly close together so the adjustments will be finer. I will look to see if I can move them just a little though.

JimmyMac

iTrader: (2)

Well I ran thru 2 qualifiers today before it down poured and the race was called. Sucks but oh well. Anyhow, I ran the a new setup on the car using the rear shock tower on front and a "sandpaper" front spool. The setup seemed to work pretty good in Stock Class and had some push in Mod. It rained before I got to try out a oneway. But maybe next weekend I'll be lucky.

Anyhow, the spool was made using a standard Yok diff without the diff balls and using homemade sandpaper pads like the Losi Spool in the XXX-S G+. It worked out pretty good! But only problem was it seems like it'll wear out the plastic outdrives real fast. Wish I could find some dogbones like ones for the TC3 made by IRS.

I also used the graphite shaft. It held up so far with the 10x2. As for the pin... I tried to push it thru... but no go. And I don't want to force it. So I'll just leave it be.

Car weighed in at 1515g for Stock. Hmmm I also noticed that running the Proto Stratus 2.0 body had more rear down force than the Yok Stratus C with a 2.0 wing. Or maybe I can rephrase that and say the Yok body had more steering than the 2.0. Basically I went out during practice with the 2.0 body. Then switched to the Yok body and noticed that the cars rear end was alittle loose. Upon reswitching the bodies... it cured it. Hmmmmm

Blah blah blah... let me head out.. just winding down from the long day. L8Rz

JMac

glide 1

Hi all, i'm expiriencing a LOT of problems with the sd's stock universal shafts, the little pins that get tightend by the setcrew keeps snapping.... this in turn damages the axle, bones etc. I am using a 1-way so wear on the entire shaft is exagerated. I would like to change to ball diffs but they are not available here locally yet.

Can someone recomment a good, strong, durable replacement for this? thanks in advance.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

While you guys get to talk about racing etc. I was stuck at work

THeGame

Have you tried the Losi alfa Body ?

marzin

Hi,

Anyone experiencing the same problem? Seems like quite a number of complains in this area?

Care to share and wats the remedy?

Thanks Joe

johnbull

Hi guys. Greetings from Malta.

MARZIN. GLIDE.

I can't say I've had any problems with drive shafts, or anything for that matter with the SD.

I have now done 3 race meetings with it finishing 4th first time out, then 1st two weeks ago and 1st again yesterday. it's by far the quickest car in the class.

I never used the kit driveshafts. I fitted it out with the old style MR4 alloy drive shafts as they were lighter. I only used the SD stub axles.

My only breakage to date has been a front shock tower but that was caused by attacking a brick wall at high speed, so I'm not blaming the car.

Good luck.

Joe from sunny Malta.