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Old 06-02-2003, 05:54 PM   #1666
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randman- when you use the longer shock ends you use the other hole for the hingpin in the castor block
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Old 06-02-2003, 05:55 PM   #1667
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Default Re: Re: Front body posts get in the way.

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Originally posted by Randman
I am wondering which kit comes with that bumper hold down? You said the SSG Special, but that's the car I have. I use the outer mounting holes to try and get a little more body side support, but would like a brace like that.

Also, most setups call for the longer lower shock mounts on the front shocks, but when I have those on the ride height is too high, I am wondering if I am doing something wrong, or if that's just the way they are. I have the short mounts now not threaded on all the way.

The SSG Special is for the MR4TC belt drive car. The wide bumper brace is not sold seperately.
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Old 06-02-2003, 06:11 PM   #1668
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Default plastic bumper holdown

There is an older plactic bumper holdown kit for the MR4TC. I think the part number is ZS-016H "Front Body Post Support for MR-4TC".

-H
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Old 06-02-2003, 08:02 PM   #1669
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Default Re: Tobee and Square stuff

Quote:
Originally posted by Kenshin
Hi guys,
I just got my shipment of Tobee craft and Square stuff and I must say I was pleasantly surprised. The Tobee aluminum drive shaft comes TWO per pack for only about 7 bucks. I ordered 5 packs thinking that they only come one per pack. Now I can do front and rear with lotsa spares. That is pretty cheap if you ask me. I also got the lightened alu main drive shaft. I haven't weighed it yet to find out the difference between it and the stock one. I also got the front and rear alu input shafts. It costs about $8.50. It feels light, but I will confirm when I pull out the stock ones. Next is the Ti axle from Square, it is about $26. I got the fronts since I already broke two of the stock one. The boards keep getting in my way. Again, the finish is top notch as expected from Square. Durability test will have to wait until this weekend. Well, that's it for goodies right now. I will post pix later.

kenshin,
where do you get your stuffs from the Tobee & Square website or some other hobbyshops?
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Old 06-02-2003, 09:24 PM   #1670
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Thanks Matt, I totally forgot about the castor block holes, and yet I used to run that setup on my MR-4TC cars...
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Old 06-02-2003, 11:55 PM   #1671
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Well I changed the castor block holes, and have the long shock ends back on, and I still can't get the front end lower than 7.5-8mm ride height. Any other suggestions, or should I just run the short shock ends? I do have the rear shock tower on front.
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Old 06-02-2003, 11:58 PM   #1672
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are you using the low or high holes on the tower? All the setups that I've seen with the rear tower on front have been using the upper holes. If the short shock ends get you the ride height that you need then just use them.
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Old 06-03-2003, 12:02 AM   #1673
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I am running the upper holes, so I guess I just can't get any lower with this setup. What is the purpouse of running the different length shock ends?
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Old 06-03-2003, 12:05 AM   #1674
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the different length shock ends allow you to achieve the desired ride height. I just got another rear tower to put on the front but haven't installed it yet. What some other Yokomo guys are doing with the rayspeed springs is using the AE shock cups and a regular ball end for the shock end and putting the ball in the arm so you just snap the shock on the arm
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Old 06-03-2003, 12:12 AM   #1675
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I'm using the long shock ends and have the top of the shock on the outer hole. The bottom of the shock is mounted on 2nd outer hole. With the Yokomo orange spring and no preload, the ride height is 4.5mm (measured from the front of the graphite chassis). If I measure from the plastic bumper, it is a lot higher (like 6 or 7mm).

-H
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Old 06-03-2003, 12:15 AM   #1676
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I have heard a little about the rayspeed springs, but is there any advantage to running them?

The lowest I can get the back of the car is 5.5mm now, so I will just thread the shock end onto the shaft a little more. I am wanting to get 5mm all the way around the car for a neutral setting point.
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Old 06-03-2003, 04:20 AM   #1677
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The only reason for using the long shock ends is to get more droop/ride height. If you can't get your ride height low enough, take them off. I use the short ends, unscrewed.

I took the center brace off the car for a bit, in all honesty I couldn't notice a difference, but I was running on a low grip surface. It's close to an ounce of weight though.
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Old 06-03-2003, 05:29 AM   #1678
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Here's a setup that worked well for me in cold conditions (around/under 15 deg C) on a high speed track last Sunday.

http://www.netikka.net/kentech/tattarisuo_010603.PDF
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Old 06-03-2003, 05:30 AM   #1679
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Joel Lagace
SEtups:

Could you guys post your CARPET setups for me?

The classes i run now with TC3 are:
-STOCK WITH RUBBER TIRES on ozite
-19T with foam tires on ozite

I would like your suggestions with the YOK SD.

What springs do you guys use? I plan to use my associated sets. Does yokomo rate there spring rates the same as AE?
I am using Yokomo GT-4 springs, that's what I can find at the LHS.

Posted the Ozite set up maybe a page back... anyway here is the link Ozite Set up sheet

I was running 12X2 though, but shouldn't be any problem if you put the milder Motor on. I don't run Rubber on the carpet, sorry.
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Old 06-03-2003, 05:34 AM   #1680
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Default Need the size please.

Arg

I was about the order some bearing on-line... But I forgot the manual... So, I could use some help from whomever that got the manual on hand.

What is the size of the Steering Hub bearing and Diff (out drive) bearing?

Thanks
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