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Old 02-06-2011, 06:49 PM   #15796
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Originally Posted by gazmidas View Post
Hi,

I run a SD SSG in the UK on indoor carpet tracks. unfortunately since the introduction of brushless motor's and lipos I can no longer get the diffs to survive any length of time - the diff comes loose and the screw then snaps.

Can anyone advise where is best to buy parts for the SD these days? and is there any special tricks to get my diffs to last longer?

Note I am running the Andy East chassis which you may not have seen before, hopefully the picture will work on here!

Gareth

Attachment 704831
I think the trick is to put a very slight bend in the screw, nearer the nut end not the the thrust race end. This seems to help prevent them getting loose with high torque/high traction scenarios. Carpet can be pretty evil!

Give it a go.

It used to work for us back when the SSG first came out. It was a very fragile car back then, before they re-worked all the mouldings. Getting the cars to finish a race indoors was a real challenge.

I still have a modified, milled Rayspeed chassis conversion SD, and I run corally blades with modified outdrives etc. I haven't raced touring for a long time now, but the SD is a fine car when it's dialled. I always preferred it to my plastic fantastic - so long as it stayed in one piece to the end of a race!
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:54 AM   #15797
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All,

Thanks for the responses - it looks like i just need to start getting back into the practise of building diffs again! I have been spoilt by Losi xxx-cr diffs and gear diffs needing little to no rebuilding....

I shall have a search for a rebuild guide and gets some parts ordered.

Also if anyone has any SD parts then i will be interested and sending people PM's to get more details

Now back on the hunt for a turbo / variable timing speedo and a 13.5 turn motor!

Gareth
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:19 PM   #15798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazmidas View Post
All,

Thanks for the responses - it looks like i just need to start getting back into the practise of building diffs again! I have been spoilt by Losi xxx-cr diffs and gear diffs needing little to no rebuilding....

I shall have a search for a rebuild guide and gets some parts ordered.

Also if anyone has any SD parts then i will be interested and sending people PM's to get more details

Now back on the hunt for a turbo / variable timing speedo and a 13.5 turn motor!

Gareth
go to http://yokomousa.com/ and click on "Manuals" for all cars in PDF format.
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Old 02-08-2011, 01:00 PM   #15799
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Just had a thought, I'm sure you posted this same issue up on oOple a little while ago and I was supposed to get back to you about my diffs and I was a prat and never did.

I'm currently rebuilding my SD as a wet car and cos I have loads of spare diffs I'll build one up for you and send you it if you want? Just PM me your address. It won't have ceramic balls though as I don't have any spare at the mo.
Now that's what I call service!
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:40 PM   #15800
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I did the HB C-hub conversion and the BD5 Rear hub conversion on my SD.
You can too!


Now this aluminum rear hub carrier is from Suzuki, not much
of a conversion but its the same shape/size as BD5!


Ahhh yes! BD5 Rear hub carrier!


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Old 02-10-2011, 04:46 PM   #15801
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HB C-hub Conversion

HPI73518 C-hubs
HB75119 Hinge pins 2.5mm
HPI75122 Steering bushings
HB75116 Ball studs 13mm

You will need to drill out the outer
hingepin hole (in the arm) to 2.5mm
to accept the now larger HPI hinge pin.
The drill bit MUST be exactly 2.5mm,
hard to find but I got mine on eBay.
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Old 02-10-2011, 04:51 PM   #15802
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BD5 Rear Hub carrier:

Now this conversion is much more difficult
if you want to re-use your old SD universals.
However no drilling is required! they bolt right
on!

Now for the quick and easy way just buy the
BD5 universals (BD-010R) and 5x10 bearings.

I did not want to buy the BD5 universals
because I have so many original SD universals
and 6x10 bearings. So if your like me, you
will need to find some 6x10 shims to space
out the bearings to accomadate the SD rear
axle. I used a 1mm thick spacer on the outer
bearing and 1.5mm thick spacers on the inner
ball bearing. Just keep shimming until its tight
and spins free with NO drag.
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Old 02-11-2011, 01:37 PM   #15803
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B18C Turbo

What car do the metal diff carriers come from? And does it not cause a problem having the diffs open to the elements? I would have have thought grit / dirt would easily get on the gears

Gareth
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:54 PM   #15804
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It looks like an LCG or SDW, not sure which though. SDW would be my 50/50 guess.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:26 PM   #15805
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Sold!

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:40 PM   #15806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazmidas View Post
B18C Turbo

What car do the metal diff carriers come from? And does it not cause a problem having the diffs open to the elements? I would have have thought grit / dirt would easily get on the gears

Gareth
What is a metal diff carrier? No dirt does not accumulate on the
Gears I race the car on clean and prepped surfaces. After the
Race season I clean the gear teeth using a small flat blade
Screw driver or hobby knife.
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Old 02-12-2011, 10:51 PM   #15807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by housey View Post
It looks like an LCG or SDW, not sure which though. SDW would be my 50/50 guess.
I race both. The LCG has the BD5 rear hubs. My
SDW has the suzuki hub carriers. Both cars have
The HB c-hub modification.
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:25 AM   #15808
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Default Lipo on old MR4TC SD CGM

hi hi,

can someone advise what is the best mod for CGM to mount lipo batteries ?
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Old 05-08-2011, 07:14 AM   #15809
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I had the carbon battery strap. Two posts in the front and Instead of flipping the battery strap over I just sanded the humps down till it was a snug fit for my TP packs. Looks factory and never had a problem.

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Old 05-08-2011, 08:25 AM   #15810
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Is there a standard chassis or the Lipo chassis SD-002MC
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