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Old 01-09-2010, 12:50 PM   #15751
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niznai thanks for your input. my problem is so severe that it happens when the wheels are straight. after my post i did a search on this thread and discovered there was extensive discussions about this issue with this car. based on the posts my conclusion for a cure at this time is to reset the droop and ride height front and back so that arms are more level and therefore the bone end of the drive shaft does not hit the alu retaining ring on the diff output as much. I think there's either a design flaw (too short of drive shaft bone or diff output lenght) or instruction manual mistake ( hing pin in lower hole of front c hub not upper) that is causing this. I'll be working on the car today for racing tomorrow will report how it goes.
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Old 01-09-2010, 05:24 PM   #15752
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Changed the downstop and ride height settings and the arm hopping has gone away all together!! remains to be seen how the car will handle on the track with the new settings.

Now the other problem with CVs on yoks is the pin popin out and breaking and also drive shaft bones bowing (the rest of the vibration story) ...saw some post suggesting use of TC3 MIP bones & even the couplers??Any info on thos will fit the yoke axles and if the lengths are correct?

http://www.miponline.com/MIP/a-a10-tc3,4.html
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:32 PM   #15753
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As I said. Your arms were drooping too far. My suggestion about the driveshafts is to check you have original Yokomo items on your car. I have never had this problem.
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:30 AM   #15754
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Does anyone know which other brand steering knuckles will fit the SD? I'm struggling to find some after busting two in two weeks...and I wasn't even being rough with the car...

I'm thinking HPI/HB as they seem to fit any car, anyone know for sure?
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Old 03-20-2010, 10:50 AM   #15755
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Originally Posted by academygaz View Post
Does anyone know which other brand steering knuckles will fit the SD? I'm struggling to find some after busting two in two weeks...and I wasn't even being rough with the car...

I'm thinking HPI/HB as they seem to fit any car, anyone know for sure?
The HB do fit but you have to redrill the hinge pins to fit.
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Old 03-20-2010, 12:59 PM   #15756
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Thanks. While I'm fitting them, I'll probably grind a flat section on the outer hingepins so I can use the set screw in the C-Hub to attach them, I don't like those tiny screws at the moment.
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Old 05-20-2010, 06:25 PM   #15757
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yokomo MR4TC-SD parts on closeout:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...?catmainid=566
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:03 PM   #15758
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has anyone tried using these on Mr4-TC SD? they are made for BD, so i guess the questions is do BD and SD use the same font universals or in anycase would these work?

http://www.egrracing.com/shop/cv-uni...d5-p-3695.html
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:02 PM   #15759
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its true the SD/BD share the same front & rear universals, however those parts you pictured are designed and made for the new BD5, that will NOT work on the older car.
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:09 AM   #15760
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Default Newbie on mr-4tc

Hello guys,

I'm new in using yokomo mr-4tc drift package type-b. Previously, I was using tamiya tt-01 but it does not suit my style. Yokomo on the other hand really handle well and drift well too. The problem is now it seems the front universal shaft does not rotate smoothly and the problem seems to be increasing during turning left or right. I know this topic has been discussed before but need more solutions to this problem.

cheers..
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Old 06-01-2010, 02:34 PM   #15761
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Originally Posted by rai View Post
Hello guys,

I'm new in using yokomo mr-4tc drift package type-b. Previously, I was using tamiya tt-01 but it does not suit my style. Yokomo on the other hand really handle well and drift well too. The problem is now it seems the front universal shaft does not rotate smoothly and the problem seems to be increasing during turning left or right. I know this topic has been discussed before but need more solutions to this problem.

cheers..
I'm not a drifter but are your universals the version with 1.5mm coupler pin? if so, those have many design flaws and need to be replaced for something like the ones in the link below, which has the beefy 2mm coupler pin and designed originally for drift cars but I just bought one for my on road SD and was very happy with the bench test. I will need to cut the threads by a little for on-road racing since they are longer designed for deep dish drift rims, otherwise during impact bad things will probably happen but for drift rims they should be perfect.

Also if you are running any retaining rings or sleeves on the outdrives you need to switch to something without those because the bone end of universal will catch those in tight turns and cause a whole bunch of chatter.

here's the link for everything mentioned above:

http://www.super-rc.com/index.php?cP...3ee9c14d0e9ad9

For on-road racing guys looks like Yeah racing is making a universal with 2mm coupler pins and RCmart carries those. threads on those should be right for standard rims.
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Old 06-01-2010, 06:49 PM   #15762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugler View Post
I'm not a drifter but are your universals the version with 1.5mm coupler pin? if so, those have many design flaws and need to be replaced for something like the ones in the link below, which has the beefy 2mm coupler pin and designed originally for drift cars but I just bought one for my on road SD and was very happy with the bench test. I will need to cut the threads by a little for on-road racing since they are longer designed for deep dish drift rims, otherwise during impact bad things will probably happen but for drift rims they should be perfect.

Also if you are running any retaining rings or sleeves on the outdrives you need to switch to something without those because the bone end of universal will catch those in tight turns and cause a whole bunch of chatter.

here's the link for everything mentioned above:

http://www.super-rc.com/index.php?cP...3ee9c14d0e9ad9

For on-road racing guys looks like Yeah racing is making a universal with 2mm coupler pins and RCmart carries those. threads on those should be right for standard rims.
Yes, i'm using the 1.5 mm coupler pin. I'm still curious of why this has to do with the rotation. I know that the angle of turning will be a bit higher than the 1.5 mm pin which will increase more turning point when entering corners.
But i do agree with you on the retaining rings or sleeves. I changed it immediately with the sleeves that came with the gradeup conversion stage 1 *D-015 sold in the link that u gave me. The rotation is now a bit smooth than before for now.
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:15 PM   #15763
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Yes, i'm using the 1.5 mm coupler pin. I'm still curious of why this has to do with the rotation. I know that the angle of turning will be a bit higher than the 1.5 mm pin which will increase more turning point when entering corners.
But i do agree with you on the retaining rings or sleeves. I changed it immediately with the sleeves that came with the gradeup conversion stage 1 *D-015 sold in the link that u gave me. The rotation is now a bit smooth than before for now.
the 1.5mm universals are nothing but trouble & that's why they came up with the 2mm version just like everyone else. for one the tiny pin stresses and dents the coupler end of the shaft to where the parts become sloppy and there's more vibration in general so there's a source for chatter...this vibration causes the pin to either snap or a more common problem causes pin to slide out of one end of axle, which BTW check for it, that may be the case now and you might have not noticed it, with 1.5mm pins I checked for this after each run and most of the time would find pins sliding out, very annoying! the 1.5mm pin is also about 1 to 2mm short in length of what it should have been.
Also check your droop and a-arm angles. If they are too steep going downwards that will create chatter & vibration problems too.
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:32 PM   #15764
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Originally Posted by mugler View Post
the 1.5mm universals are nothing but trouble & that's why they came up with the 2mm version just like everyone else. for one the tiny pin stresses and dents the coupler end of the shaft to where the parts become sloppy and there's more vibration in general so there's a source for chatter...this vibration causes the pin to either snap or a more common problem causes pin to slide out of one end of axle, which BTW check for it, that may be the case now and you might have not noticed it, with 1.5mm pins I checked for this after each run and most of the time would find pins sliding out, very annoying! the 1.5mm pin is also about 1 to 2mm short in length of what it should have been.
Also check your droop and a-arm angles. If they are too steep going downwards that will create chatter & vibration problems too.
Again thanks mugler for the info. Now i can see the problem with the 1.5 mm pin. I have like 4 stocks of that universal shafts with me now in case something happens during competition which is bad and it does cost me alot . Do i need special mod when using the 2mm coupler other than cutting the thread? Or is it just a quick fit in?

Touching on the droop, well about 80% of drift competition here in Brunei uses tarmac surfaces so having a very low droop may cause any object to be caught on the chassis. So how would you counter this and how to tamper the a-arms angles?

Cheers
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Old 06-01-2010, 08:34 PM   #15765
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Again thanks mugler for the info. Now i can see the problem with the 1.5 mm pin. I have like 4 stocks of that universal shafts with me now in case something happens during competition which is bad and it does cost me alot . Do i need special mod when using the 2mm coupler other than cutting the thread? Or is it just a quick fit in?

Touching on the droop, well about 80% of drift competition here in Brunei uses tarmac surfaces so having a very low droop may cause any object to be caught on the chassis. So how would you counter this and how to tamper the a-arms angles?

Cheers
the 2mm drive shafts are a direct drop in for the front steering knuckles & since you're drifting you don't have to cut the thread, matter of fact you'll probably need it for drifting deep dish rims. these shafts (shaft itself) come in different lengths & again since i'm NOT a drifter you'll need to do more research to see which one you need to get for your own particular car and suspension arms. The droop thing i only mentioned as a secondary consideration, droop would've mattered more if you were running retaining rings on outdrives which you're not.
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