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Old 07-01-2009, 09:38 AM   #15736
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Default SDW Rear Shock Tower

SDW Rear Shock Tower...
I don't think the BD shock tower will fit the SDW....because it doesn't have the camber link section.
but the Rayspeed and SD shock tower may fit....

Anyone insterested in a SDW? I have a brand new one, missing the oneway....i might be selling soon.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:14 AM   #15737
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oops, thats right! i forgot about the camber link mounting positions on the SDW.

hes right mate, try using a rayspeed shock tower.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:23 PM   #15738
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thanks guys but where can i buy a rayspeed tower from ?
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:37 PM   #15739
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i dont think the rayspeed shock towers were ever sold seperatly. I know they were included in the Rayspeed SD conversion kit.

Why do you want to change the rear shock tower? Is it broken/missing?
If so stormerhobbies.com has the SDW shock towers in stock.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:45 PM   #15740
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yes it is broken is stormer the only place to go for sdw parts ?
do you have any other links ?
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:35 PM   #15741
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stormerhobbies is the only hobbyshop in the united states that carries SDW parts. Once those parts are sold, they are gone forever and will not be restocked.

Once there parts are dried up you must order parts overseas. The best place to get Yokomo and SDW parts is from CHamp R/C in Japan.
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Old 08-15-2009, 06:10 PM   #15742
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I called RC Tech in Daly City today and they said that Yokomo will come back for sure. He said they are in the preocess of it and that they switched hands.

I got worried that parts in the US maybe gone soon so I considered a TB-03D but he convinced me otherwise.

Should I stay with my Yokomo or get the Tamiya TB-03D? Parts are not that rare if you know where to look, so far I have found everything I needed.

Hows does the Yokomo MR4TC SD CMS compare to the Tamiya TB-03D in terms of drifting, structural intgrity, weight/balance, and smoothness of overall run???

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Old 08-16-2009, 08:07 AM   #15743
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Hey guys I got my sd ssg with the cgm conversion I'd be willing to sell if anyone want it. Plenty of extra parts to go with it. Contact me if interested if make u a great deal. It has only been raced on carpet..
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Old 11-16-2009, 05:33 PM   #15744
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Default AFTTER-MARKET UNIVERSAL DRIVE SHAFT FOR SD

Does anyone know which version of THE drive shaft are absolutely the strongest offered for this car? There seems to be multiple versions for this part on yokomo usa's site & the one's i use keep bending pretty easily & i know they are made in steel!

Also is there an after-market company that offers universal driveshafts for the SD's (assuming they're the same for the current BD).?

Universals from Yokomo are prone to having the pin in coupler sliding out and breaking no matter how hard you tighten the set screw.

would appreciate info and input.
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:17 PM   #15745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugler View Post
Does anyone know which version of THE drive shaft are absolutely the strongest offered for this car? There seems to be multiple versions for this part on yokomo usa's site & the one's i use keep bending pretty easily & i know they are made in steel!

Also is there an after-market company that offers universal driveshafts for the SD's (assuming they're the same for the current BD).?

Universals from Yokomo are prone to having the pin in coupler sliding out and breaking no matter how hard you tighten the set screw.

would appreciate info and input.
The carbon mainshaft from the SDW is the strongest and
lightest mainshaft offered by Yokomo. SD-644W and its about $20!

The stock yokomo universals have a pin snapping problem. The problem
is the pin is very thin, just 1.5mm thick. The fix? Buy some BD5 44mm bones,
BD5 coupling/pin and drill out your stock axle with a 2mm drill bit.

This gives you a hybrid SD/BD5 universal that is now stronger and more
efficient.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:03 PM   #15746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B18C Turbo View Post
The carbon mainshaft from the SDW is the strongest and
lightest mainshaft offered by Yokomo. SD-644W and its about $20!

The stock yokomo universals have a pin snapping problem. The problem
is the pin is very thin, just 1.5mm thick. The fix? Buy some BD5 44mm bones,
BD5 coupling/pin and drill out your stock axle with a 2mm drill bit.

This gives you a hybrid SD/BD5 universal that is now stronger and more
efficient.

Hey Thanks. looking at a few options but just may go with the hybrid option too as a parallel idea, it sounds it will end up beefy.

BTW my problem is that the set screw does not thread deep enough to hold the pin in place for long. Once the pin slides out it eats away at the steering knuckle and eventually breaks. I only race 17.5 so i guess not enough power to snap the pin outright

Last edited by mugler; 11-17-2009 at 10:52 PM.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:54 PM   #15747
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yeah thats what happens, just use BD5 hybrid cvd's.
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Old 11-18-2009, 01:12 AM   #15748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugler View Post
Hey Thanks. looking at a few options but just may go with the hybrid option too as a parallel idea, it sounds it will end up beefy.

BTW my problem is that the set screw does not thread deep enough to hold the pin in place for long. Once the pin slides out it eats away at the steering knuckle and eventually breaks. I only race 17.5 so i guess not enough power to snap the pin outright
Grind a flat spot on the pin.
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Old 01-09-2010, 01:49 AM   #15749
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Default Front end blues

with the front shocks, camber and toe turn buckles all removed, I noticed that front arms travel as much as half a centimeter as I turn the spur which in turn runs the drive train. the problem is worst on left side (passenger side in US) than the right but on both sides still. I checked for this because I was noticing major shaking at the front end and sure enough there's the problem.

Does anyone know what the cause & solution are?

I looked at the drive shafts and axles and they look pretty straight and the pins are not protruding out of the cvds. The problem is there with both solid axle or diff installed. I have to assume this has been experienced before so hope someone can shed light .
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Old 01-09-2010, 10:54 AM   #15750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugler View Post
with the front shocks, camber and toe turn buckles all removed, I noticed that front arms travel as much as half a centimeter as I turn the spur which in turn runs the drive train. the problem is worst on left side (passenger side in US) than the right but on both sides still. I checked for this because I was noticing major shaking at the front end and sure enough there's the problem.

Does anyone know what the cause & solution are?

I looked at the drive shafts and axles and they look pretty straight and the pins are not protruding out of the cvds. The problem is there with both solid axle or diff installed. I have to assume this has been experienced before so hope someone can shed light .

That's not as abnormal as it may seem. You don't need to remove the camber link though to notice this effect which is due to the fact that your "universal" is not actually a true CV joint. What happens is that as it turns, there is a tendency for the joint to spin slower (than the input shaft, here the dogbone) at the open end on half a turn then faster on the other half turn. This creates an uneven strain on the driveshaft which is compensated by the driveshaft trying to align itself. Thsi raises the suspension arm if it is free to move. Unijoints don't really like angles of more than 15 degrees really. A CV joint (such as the ECS made by Xray for instance, but other companies too) are true constant velocity, so there is a smooth effort as they spin which means they don't tend to self straighten.

Sure, a unijoint with some friction problems will show a more pronounced effect. Try to keep everything well lubed, make sure the joint is free to move but not worn out.

Another reason might be that without all the turnbuckles, the suspension arms drop too far and the diff outdrives tend to raise the driveshafts when the dogbone inner pin is horizontal (the angle is too much and the driveshaft doesn't clear the outdrive bevel). Perhaps your driveshafts are too long (or outdrives)? Is this the stock setup?
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