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Old 04-23-2009, 11:43 PM   #15721
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Great thanks, I'll be ordering the 60T...finally I'll be able to run with correct FDR in the 17.5 class after all this time!
What is the FDR you're chasing?

A 60 spur @ 48 pitch is going to be rather small in diameter and you'll need a large pinion to go with it. Ratios achievable with it are between 3.4 and 9.1 assuming a pinion anywhere between 40 and 15 tooth. With a 64 pitch spur of 90 you can achieve anywhere between 11.4 and 3.9 with pinions between 18 and 52 teeth. I am comparing the 60 spur @ 48pitch with the 90 @64 because they are similar diameters (the limiting factor on your car). Of course, you can get larger spurs in both pitches but then the range of pinions available (those compared above are offerred by Kawada) is going to dictate the FDR you can have.

For good quality pinions and spurs both in 48 and 64 pitch you can check out rcmart where they sell the Kawada brand which fits the Yokomo holder and are probably the best quality spurs and pinions around with a huge range to boot. I run them in all my cars (including the SD-SSG).
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:42 AM   #15722
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niznai - thanks for the heads up on the Kawada spurs.

I'm chasing the starting recommended FDR for 17.5 which is 3.5. The smallest spur from Yokomo being 68T and using the largest pinion,the 40T, the lowest I was able to go was 4.00. With the 60T Spur & 40T Pinion not only I'll be at 3.53 but also will get rid of that tight gear mesh at the same time. From there I can go to smaller pinions for higher FDRs if motor temp becomes a factor.
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:55 AM   #15723
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With the 60T Spur & 40T Pinion not only I'll be at 3.53
Nope, you will be at 3.4412 FDR (internal ratio for SD is 39/17=2.29412). I am not sure how much of a difference it will make to 3.5 FDR, but here you go.

Boy, you really are pushing the envelope with this FDR. It is the lowest FDR you can get with Kawada pinions/spurs for this car.
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Old 04-24-2009, 02:30 AM   #15724
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Nope, you will be at 3.4412 FDR (internal ratio for SD is 39/17=2.29412). I am not sure how much of a difference it will make to 3.5 FDR, but here you go.

Boy, you really are pushing the envelope with this FDR. It is the lowest FDR you can get with Kawada pinions/spurs for this car.
Here is the link for the internal gear ratio (2.353) of MR-4 TC SD, just scroll all the way down on the page:

http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts/setupusa.htm

3.5 is probably the lowest anyone should be at, any adjustments should be made going up but at 4.00 I'm getting motored on the straights enough to make a difference, & I know those guys are right there at 3.5.
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:18 AM   #15725
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Default 3.5

3.5 is really low.

I would shoot for a 3.7 thru 4.0

the shaft drivetrain spools up very quick and is super free which I usually end up running a few notches different from a belt car

try a 84-86 tooth (64 pitch) with a 54-56 tooth pinion.

86 with a 56 = 3.61

You have to play around with what combination is best for you. Sometimes it's best to have more torque thru the infield and give up a little on the straights.
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:37 AM   #15726
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugler View Post
Here is the link for the internal gear ratio (2.353) of MR-4 TC SD, just scroll all the way down on the page:

http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts/setupusa.htm

3.5 is probably the lowest anyone should be at, any adjustments should be made going up but at 4.00 I'm getting motored on the straights enough to make a difference, & I know those guys are right there at 3.5.
You're right, my mistake, the internal ratio is 2.35294. I was out one tooth on the crownwheel. The things old age does to a man. I apologise.

This then changes the range I listed above to 3.5294 to 9.4118 @ 48 and 3.9819 to 11.5033 @ 64 pitch.
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Last edited by niznai; 04-24-2009 at 09:53 AM.
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:54 AM   #15727
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I still have 2 of these kickin' around, I have both the black carbon and a silver carbon cars.

I wonder if this car would even be competitive if I were to try racing again.

Part of me wants to just take one of the cars and add a drift body and some rims and do up a good looking car for the shelf.
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:03 AM   #15728
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I have mine set up with an HPI Beetle Cup Racer shell painted like Herbie, some work wheels and T drift tires. I have been taking it to car shows and making friends for the hobby.

The car is still competitive in VTA. I know it's not the latest thing, but it's on par with the TC3's which are very prominent in that class.
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:44 AM   #15729
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I still have 2 of these kickin' around, I have both the black carbon and a silver carbon cars.

I wonder if this car would even be competitive if I were to try racing again.

Part of me wants to just take one of the cars and add a drift body and some rims and do up a good looking car for the shelf.

The car (and any car) is only as good as you are. Sometimes I win, sometimes I lose. Whenever I lost a race (not very often) with this car it was my fault, not the car's. And I raced against anything from TT01 to Xray and I beat and I lost to either so there you go. Of course, being a shaft drive it will have its problems and limitations, but then again, its benefits too.

Mine was initially intended as a drift car but ended up a touring. The Yokomo AE86 bodyshell is still waiting to see some action.
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:36 PM   #15730
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My AE86 is still very competetive against the 009 and the Cyclone... When... Even when I'm driving... For at least a little bit, anyway

In the hands of a good driver, it can keep the pace with no problems at all

However! The AE86 body is NOT that good for racing... It has practially no downforce, and no aeordynamics at all
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Old 06-07-2009, 07:57 PM   #15731
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...

However! The AE86 body is NOT that good for racing... It has practially no downforce, and no aeordynamics at all

And on top of that it's a rather nice (and expensive) shell you wouldn't want smashed in TC racing. That's mainly why I use TC bodyshells for racing.
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:45 AM   #15732
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I race mine in the intermediate class where they run 17.5 motors. Car more than holds it's own on asphalt against a sea of decked out HB Cyclones specially on the larger tracks with the one way installed. I'm not even a good tuner & only an occasional once or twice a month racer. most Racers in that class are out there every weekend and sometimes weekdays too.

If you have one of these it's defiantly worth busting them out for some major fun on the track.
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:05 AM   #15733
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And on top of that it's a rather nice (and expensive) shell you wouldn't want smashed in TC racing. That's mainly why I use TC bodyshells for racing.
Mine's pretty beat up! lol
They Yokomo shells (or at least the AE86) are really really thin compared to everything else I've seen


Quote:
Originally Posted by mugler View Post
I race mine in the intermediate class where they run 17.5 motors. Car more than holds it's own on asphalt against a sea of decked out HB Cyclones specially on the larger tracks with the one way installed. I'm not even a good tuner & only an occasional once or twice a month racer. most Racers in that class are out there every weekend and sometimes weekdays too.

If you have one of these it's defiantly worth busting them out for some major fun on the track.

I've got the one way drive shaft in mine, and I love it

I need some parts, though, so that's going to be a pain
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:07 AM   #15734
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hi can any one please help

what other rear shock tower can be use on the sdw ? and will any pro 4 part fit on the sd

thanks
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:08 AM   #15735
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the shock towers from the BD/SD cars will fit!

are you having trouble getting ride height with the stock SDW tower?

Also no, no parts from the Pro 4 will fit.


Where did you get an SDW?
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