Yokomo MR-4TC SD

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Old 10-14-2007, 08:50 PM
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Default Freeing Your Drivetrain.

SD People!!!!!!

How free is your drive train? How long does the tire spin if you spin the wheels with your hand? With out the pinion on the motor (ofcourse).

I remember from a link in the TC3 thread, ages ago, there is this guy who blueprinted the drivetrain and it spins more than 15 seconds when spun with the hand?

Anyone has a link to that (if you can remember?)

Anyways, just asking. And post how lomg.

Lem
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Old 10-14-2007, 08:52 PM
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My car does have diff cases. I just have had lots of rear diff problems the past two races. I run a few laps the the diff starts crunching and it strips the gears. I will order graphite ones and re shim the diff for the next race. Thanks for the help guys, I really like my SD its usually DIALED except for these diff problems
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Old 10-14-2007, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim W. View Post
My car does have diff cases. I just have had lots of rear diff problems the past two races. I run a few laps the the diff starts crunching and it strips the gears. I will order graphite ones and re shim the diff for the next race. Thanks for the help guys, I really like my SD its usually DIALED except for these diff problems
you may have to buy a diff case, if it always happens. but try shimming it properly, better yet, follow the manual and go from there.
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Old 10-15-2007, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by lem2 View Post
SD People!!!!!!

How free is your drive train? How long does the tire spin if you spin the wheels with your hand? With out the pinion on the motor (ofcourse).

I remember from a link in the TC3 thread, ages ago, there is this guy who blueprinted the drivetrain and it spins more than 15 seconds when spun with the hand?

Anyone has a link to that (if you can remember?)

Anyways, just asking. And post how lomg.

Lem
Very free! I use ceramic bearings: metal shielded in the drivetrain and blue rubbershielded in the wheelhubs.
Graphite gears front and rear and 64dp spurs
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:09 PM
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Sd veterans, I have a question regarding dampers. I put on trf shocks(sacrilege?) on my rayspeed chassis, because I really hate the way yokomo shocks have to be screwed on top and bottom. The sus arms are so brittle, that I unscrew them once or twice to change springs and they are already loose. Anyway. I used long shocks ends for the rear to make them fit and all is well. For the front, Long shock ends wont give me enough throw and short ends max out the shocks at full droop. Is it bad that the shocks are resting in almost fully stretched position? My other cars, mostly tamiya have shocks set up like this. My evo 4 shocks at full droop are almost fully extended. Are yokomos the only shocks with internal limiters?
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:54 PM
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The SD arms are more brittle than Ramen noodles....

Change your SD arms to the Yok Hard Arms the ones used on the Yok BDM ....
I always found those arms to be bullet proof..
i raced a BD for quite a while..and didn't break one arm...
then put those Yok shocks back
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:07 PM
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So it's ok to have the shocks maxed out at resting position?
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by slomo View Post
So it's ok to have the shocks maxed out at resting position?

are you using the TRF or yokomo shockends??
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Old 10-18-2007, 10:49 AM
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Im using TRF shocks, the whole unit. They are about the same length as the yokomo short shock body. I dont think I'll be going back to yokomo shocks, just because tamiya shocks are much easier to take on/off and make adjustments. I was just curious if there is a clear advantahe for having the shock piston floating in oil like yokomo shocks. I have the long ends on the rear shocks and theyre fine> At full droop, the shocks are extended just about half way. Front shocks have short ends and they are fully extended before the droop screw touches the deck. Front droop is about 4-5 on the yokomo droop guage.
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by slomo View Post
Im using TRF shocks, the whole unit. They are about the same length as the yokomo short shock body. I dont think I'll be going back to yokomo shocks, just because tamiya shocks are much easier to take on/off and make adjustments. I was just curious if there is a clear advantahe for having the shock piston floating in oil like yokomo shocks. I have the long ends on the rear shocks and theyre fine> At full droop, the shocks are extended just about half way. Front shocks have short ends and they are fully extended before the droop screw touches the deck. Front droop is about 4-5 on the yokomo droop guage.

I'm using TRF shocks also but to solve your problem, use the YOKOMO Shock ends, so you could also use the stock YOKOMO Spring retainer. And like what the others have suggested, use the hard arms.

Also, with your Rayspeed chassis are you using the plastic towers or the Rayspeed Ones?? If not get the Rayspeed towers. like thew ones on the CGM in the link below.

look here:
CGM Chassis....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...3&d=1117469059

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...2&d=1117468953

LCG Chassis
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...0&d=1119882444

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...1&d=1136902476

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...9&d=1120324214
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Old 10-18-2007, 12:52 PM
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hmm... yokomo shock ends are about the same length as tamiya ones and using different spring retainers wont change the total shock length. It still has to be fully stretched out to meet full droop, no? I think this is all because Im running the rear tower up front. Front tower sits lower and the shocks dont have to be fully stretched. The way I see it, only way to solve it is by longer shock bodies, longer piston rods, or shock ends that are in between long and short length. So I guess it's a bad thing to have the shocks fully stretched. LOL. Sometimes, I need things spelled out for me. Thanks for your help.
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Old 10-22-2007, 11:19 PM
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Im getting some anormal wear on tires and inconsistent cornering. Right side tires are worn evenly, but the batter side tires are worn on the shoulders, especially the fronts. Whats the remedy? Thanks.
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Old 10-23-2007, 10:10 AM
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It could be your track lay out, If you want to make sure its not your car just rebuild your shocks make sure your shock lengths are even and camber is even.
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Old 11-04-2007, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by MrUnlimited View Post
Here is my SD LCG:

Why pic with Bodyshell on, and not with chassiss only?
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Old 11-09-2007, 10:23 AM
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hi Sd fans....

here is my SDW 4mm carpet spec project chassis.....hope u like it.
if anyone interested in this i can share the drawing....it is designed for SDW , but i think the holes are same to others SD cars






Bye!
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