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Old 10-02-2007, 06:48 AM   #15616
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Nice! I like the chassis! I like to see they converted the SD into a buggy! More power than the beltcar they have now!
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Old 10-04-2007, 03:37 AM   #15617
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I have an annoying chassis tweak problem on my ssg sd. When I loosen all the screws and retighten in reccomended x-pattern, I still end up with a tweaky chassis. All my tamiya chassis stays flat, but my ssg decks and rayspeed conversion both end up twisted(always in same orientation too). So after rebuild, I have to twist the chassis by hand to 'snap' it back straight. Is it because all the extra holes in the rayspeed chassis? But Im still having the same tweak on the ssg plates as well. Could it be the bottom of the gear boxes not being completely flat? I'm also having a helI of a time setting droop, because the 'hole-y', tweaky rayspeed deck can not stay flat on my droop blocks. I really like the way these cars drive, but setting them up is a pain compared to my tamiya cars... Anybody experience this?
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Old 10-04-2007, 04:20 AM   #15618
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Strip down the car, place the upper and lower decks themselves on a flat surface to see if the material itelf has become damaged.

Don't use the centre stiffener.

Check that the gearbox mouldings are clean and undamaged. Pay particular attention to flash around where the upper deck mounts mount to the gearbox cases.

Over time heat and impacts may permanently deform some components and cause a persistent tweak like you mention. If damage is the cause the only solution is to replace parts.
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Old 10-04-2007, 05:26 AM   #15619
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And also check for bent screws...

pics request: here was my car featured on overrc.com a few years back - it was at its peak at the time

http://www.overrc.com/courses/course...05lonestar.htm

Paul
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:17 AM   #15620
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Im working on a rayspeed chassis. The decks are flat and the gear boxes are new graphite ones as well as the screws. So, I started unscrewing each parts one by one and checked the tweak. Things straightened out as I loosened the gear boxes. I adjusted droop while the screws are loose enough to keep the lower panel straight. As soon as I bolt up the gear boxes tight, the deck warps like a boat. I checked the shocks to be the same length and all, but that wasn't it. I may disassemble the chassis yet another time and inspect the bottom of the gear boxes. I ordered some graphite front and rear hubs and the molding job was pretty shoddy too. I wouldnt be surprised if the gear bozes are not flat. Man, I may just buy me a tub chassis...
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:27 AM   #15621
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...also when I adjust the ride height to be the same on all corners, the chassis doesnt sit flat(seesaws on 2 diagonal corners), and if I adjust the 4 corners to sit flat, the ride height is out of wack on all corners. Is this because the rayspeed chassis is too flexible and cant hold its shape?
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Old 10-04-2007, 12:02 PM   #15622
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slomo View Post
Im working on a rayspeed chassis. The decks are flat and the gear boxes are new graphite ones as well as the screws. So, I started unscrewing each parts one by one and checked the tweak. Things straightened out as I loosened the gear boxes. I adjusted droop while the screws are loose enough to keep the lower panel straight. As soon as I bolt up the gear boxes tight, the deck warps like a boat. I checked the shocks to be the same length and all, but that wasn't it. I may disassemble the chassis yet another time and inspect the bottom of the gear boxes. I ordered some graphite front and rear hubs and the molding job was pretty shoddy too. I wouldnt be surprised if the gear bozes are not flat. Man, I may just buy me a tub chassis...
I suspect the gearbox mouldings. If it's exactly as you describe, this is the most likely explanation. I've had bad experiences with certain 'other' mouldings on the SD, though personally I've never had trouble with my SD's gearboxes. Mouldings are never as precise as machined components (nor would you expect them to be) but not all moulded parts are born equal. Some manufacturers simply seem to produce better moulded parts. Yokomo definitely aren't the worst, but on the other hand, they're not the best either.

The Rayspeed chassis is a super bit of kit. Mine has a doubled up topdeck and milled lower deck (where the gearboxes and motor mount fits).

TBH, I've never had tweak problems with it, unlike the SSG 'lets do the twist' chassis. You could twist it by hand, and it would stay there!!

Good luck.
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Old 10-04-2007, 01:02 PM   #15623
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How many different versions of rayspeed were there? Well, I tried everything, but no dice. Gently twisting after rebuild seems to do the trick. I just have to be careful not to over do it.
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Old 10-04-2007, 10:18 PM   #15624
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Can you get a aluminum diff gear for the sd series?
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Old 10-04-2007, 11:37 PM   #15625
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Quote:
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Can you get a aluminum diff gear for the sd series?
Do you mean the diff halves? These fit:
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:25 PM   #15626
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Quote:
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Do you mean the diff halves? These fit:

The actual Diff gear
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:13 PM   #15627
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Default Question. . . .

What is the advantage if I use the Optional Steering Rack Part #SD-202L15?

Will it give me more steering??

Thanks, Anyone used it and saw an advantage?
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Old 10-06-2007, 06:00 AM   #15628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim W. View Post
The actual Diff gear
no there are no metal diff gears. There is no need for any, the updated graphite gears are pretty solid. Of course, if you hit boards had enough proper shimming is also key.

Paul
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Old 10-14-2007, 08:40 PM   #15629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
no there are no metal diff gears. There is no need for any, the updated graphite gears are pretty solid. Of course, if you hit boards had enough proper shimming is also key.

Paul
So I should get the graphite ones over the plastic ones
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Old 10-14-2007, 09:45 PM   #15630
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Quote:
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So I should get the graphite ones over the plastic ones
From my experience from SD/CGM to LCG:

If your SD uses diff cases, the graphite gears are recomended for the front. (if budget is the issue).

The plastic gears in front, causes the teeth to bend or the gears to jump in minor to medium crashes, thus messing it up.

With the graphite ones, you need to crash big time for this to happen.

If your using LCG with open diff cases, graphite on the front and rear is recomended, even with the diff covers small debris can get in and ruin the teeth.

Lem
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