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Old 12-19-2006, 09:15 PM   #1
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TC3 Front Camber

I noticed that my camber on the passenger side front doesn't change as I apply pressure down to the front of the car. The driver side tips in at the top as I apply pressure, increasing the setting. Everything appears to be tight and in good working order.

What do I need to check or change in order for this not to happen? Or, is it supposed to be this way?

Allan
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Old 12-19-2006, 09:34 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline Racing
I noticed that my camber on the passenger side front doesn't change as I apply pressure down to the front of the car. The driver side tips in at the top as I apply pressure, increasing the setting. Everything appears to be tight and in good working order.

What do I need to check or change in order for this not to happen? Or, is it supposed to be this way?

Allan
The camber links would be the cause of your problem/observation I'm sure. Check to see if they are both equal in length and connected to the same position on the shock tower. Do you have the manual?
I would suggest having a good look at the manual and adjust back to the kit setting.

Unless of course you got the car 2nd hand and someone has been racing ovals with it, then perhaps this was done on purpose to give the car "stagger" when turning left only??

Typically you would want the equal geometry left and right.

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Old 12-19-2006, 09:57 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info Matt. I purchased this car second hand, did a complete teardown and rebuild. Ball studs and turnbuckle attaching points are identical left to right, as ar the turnbuckle lengths. I have the manual and the tuning guide.

Still need advice and suggestions where to go next...
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Old 12-19-2006, 10:05 PM   #4
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Thumbs up Problem Solved

Suprisingly enough I found the problem and couldn't believe that it made that much of a difference in measurement; 3 degrees change in setting with an out of adjustment ball stud on the hub side of the camber turnbuckle.

No more than 1/2 turn loose was the ball stud. After realizing it was loose and correcting the problem, the camber change left to right is equal and negligible.
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Old 12-20-2006, 05:11 AM   #5
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the upright ballstud can be prone to working its way loose after a heavy shunt,so i'd advise you get some thread lock on the ballend thread to try and keep it in there more securely.

Sometimes the thread can strip on the upright too,so if in doubt get another pair of uprights if you dont have any, the kit ones are 0 degrees, but you can get optional ones which are usually detailed on them what degree they are. If you have the manual it describes in there how to build it up and *I think* what the different degrees of upright do to the handling (will help or lessen initial turn in I believe).

hope that helps
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Old 12-20-2006, 07:43 AM   #6
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Thank you.

Won't lock-tite on the threads inhibit the turning aspect due to the liquid migrating as the ballstud is threaded back in? And I thought that lock-tite doesn't work on plastic, which is what the ballstud is threaded in to.

By 'shunt' do you mean crash or race? I do both!! I'm not familiar with that term.

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Old 12-20-2006, 07:49 AM   #7
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if you need to use loctite to hold a screw into a piece of plastic, you should really replace the plastic. if any loctite oozes onto anything else but the threads it can make things even more suckie
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Old 12-20-2006, 03:29 PM   #8
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Guys,
I used to work for Loctite in Australia, and I would avoid using any Loctite Anaerobic (threadlock) products on the plastic of an RC chassis. They are designed to work with metal components, and can cause stress cracking to certain plastics, especially moulded ABS. Composites should be OK, but check on an old part first.

For securing the ball studs into the plastic chassis, I use a tiny drop of Loctite 480 CA (380 is similar in the USA). The ballstud is still able to be removed at a later date.

For the turnbuckle and ballcups, if they are loose and worn out just replace them. As you can glue them in position but it will be difficult to make any adjustment from then on. AE cups or the RPM are very good also.

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Old 12-20-2006, 06:54 PM   #9
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Matt - Do you race a TC3 at the mo? I have seen you do pretty good at some club events in Sydney on the net. I race a TC3 in NZ and got 4th at your nationals in ISTC stock a few weeks ago.

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Old 12-20-2006, 10:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ixlr8nz
Matt - Do you race a TC3 at the mo? I have seen you do pretty good at some club events in Sydney on the net. I race a TC3 in NZ and got 4th at your nationals in ISTC stock a few weeks ago.

Michael Jones
No Michael, I have the TC4 FT at the moment. I only race very infrequently at our club SMA in Tempe, just for a bit of fun.
Definitly not at the top end at all, If I had gone to Brisbane for that race I'm sure I would be well down the order. LOL.

Check out our club, we have a great Bistro attached also.

www.smaracing.org
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Old 12-21-2006, 12:04 AM   #11
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I must be thinking of someone with a very similar name lol.

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Old 12-21-2006, 01:30 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline Racing
Thank you.

Won't lock-tite on the threads inhibit the turning aspect due to the liquid migrating as the ballstud is threaded back in? And I thought that lock-tite doesn't work on plastic, which is what the ballstud is threaded in to.

By 'shunt' do you mean crash or race? I do both!! I'm not familiar with that term.

Regards
Allan
If you use a little bit it should help (if the threads in the upright are starting to get a bit loose), but if they are new and the thread is ok theres probably no need to use any.

lol,yeah if you have a bit of a crash it can help just make sure it doesnt come out, had a few retirements through loosing the upright ball stud coming out.

Ive grip rolled a few times recently and with the help of thread lock its not come off, so for me its just a preventetive thing more than anything.
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