Team Corally RDX Phi
09-22-2007, 05:59 AM
#916
Thanks - I'll try the spool out next.The track were going to next we raced afew months ago.I had the older RDXwith double diffs.Maybe with the spool it will help me out in the corners where I was losing it.I can build it but I can't test it out until the rest of the stuff comes back.Major blow -up at the last weekend race---Puff-puff-puff.
09-22-2007, 01:25 PM
#917
do any companies make a full titanium turnbuckle set for the RDX/Phi? I broke one of my 28mm turnbuckles today and now I want to replace all of them with something a bit beefier.
09-22-2007, 11:01 PM
#920
Best so far:
Front = 19 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 40 wt Assc, inside top, outside arm. 4 deg
dots down, top link= inside low. Arm spacers in front, so shortened 2 mm.
0.5 deg toe out each side. 1.5 mm droop. Ackerman = inside hole.
Rear = 17 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 30 wt Assc, 2nd from outside top, middle arm
dots down, top link = outside low, middle hub. 3 deg toe in. 1.5 mm droop.
I changed from 6 deg to 4 deg last weds night, it felt better but I'm inclined to think that was an illusion. Been down to 14.5 lb front/12.5 lb rear = too soggy !!
What do you think ??
Perplexed Jacko
Front = 19 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 40 wt Assc, inside top, outside arm. 4 deg
dots down, top link= inside low. Arm spacers in front, so shortened 2 mm.
0.5 deg toe out each side. 1.5 mm droop. Ackerman = inside hole.
Rear = 17 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 30 wt Assc, 2nd from outside top, middle arm
dots down, top link = outside low, middle hub. 3 deg toe in. 1.5 mm droop.
I changed from 6 deg to 4 deg last weds night, it felt better but I'm inclined to think that was an illusion. Been down to 14.5 lb front/12.5 lb rear = too soggy !!
What do you think ??
Perplexed Jacko
09-23-2007, 06:03 AM
#921
Tech Apprentice
You've missed some things I'd like to know,
Which top / bottom chassis do you run?
What front drive?
What tyres??
I'd go softer up front probably, 17lb... but you said you went alot softer than this with no help.
I'd run less caster. 2deg blocks.
Move your front shock mounts inwards on the shocktower.
dont know what your running, maybe more camber upfront, less on the rear.
More rear droop...
Could try dots up too at the rear.
Are you sure you have your radio setup right? I've never seen a phi act like that really...
Which top / bottom chassis do you run?
What front drive?
What tyres??
I'd go softer up front probably, 17lb... but you said you went alot softer than this with no help.
I'd run less caster. 2deg blocks.
Move your front shock mounts inwards on the shocktower.
dont know what your running, maybe more camber upfront, less on the rear.
More rear droop...
Could try dots up too at the rear.
Are you sure you have your radio setup right? I've never seen a phi act like that really...
09-23-2007, 06:36 AM
#922
Softer springs in front. 2 degree camber front, 1.5 camber rear. 2 degree rear toe. change rear droop to 3mm.
09-23-2007, 03:11 PM
#923
Best so far:
Front = 19 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 40 wt Assc, inside top, outside arm. 4 deg
dots down, top link= inside low. Arm spacers in front, so shortened 2 mm.
0.5 deg toe out each side. 1.5 mm droop. Ackerman = inside hole.
Rear = 17 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 30 wt Assc, 2nd from outside top, middle arm
dots down, top link = outside low, middle hub. 3 deg toe in. 1.5 mm droop.
I changed from 6 deg to 4 deg last weds night, it felt better but I'm inclined to think that was an illusion. Been down to 14.5 lb front/12.5 lb rear = too soggy !!
What do you think ??
Perplexed Jacko
Front = 19 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 40 wt Assc, inside top, outside arm. 4 deg
dots down, top link= inside low. Arm spacers in front, so shortened 2 mm.
0.5 deg toe out each side. 1.5 mm droop. Ackerman = inside hole.
Rear = 17 lb, Tamiya 3 holes 30 wt Assc, 2nd from outside top, middle arm
dots down, top link = outside low, middle hub. 3 deg toe in. 1.5 mm droop.
I changed from 6 deg to 4 deg last weds night, it felt better but I'm inclined to think that was an illusion. Been down to 14.5 lb front/12.5 lb rear = too soggy !!
What do you think ??
Perplexed Jacko
You have to flip all your dots up or shim it up 1mm on the couplers. The roll centers are too low for rubber tire carpet.
Move your front shocks to the inner holes on the arms, it will be a big change.
I would also increase your droop a bit, around 2mm in the front and 3mm in the rear.
Jeff
09-23-2007, 05:53 PM
#924
Hmmmmmm, great bunch of comments and pointers, thanks chaps. I see the dots up and more droop as the next big adventure.
On the set up sheet, the down stop # is from the likes of the Losi/Assoc droop guage ??
I'll feed back next Weds night.
Again thanks for the clues.
Jacko
On the set up sheet, the down stop # is from the likes of the Losi/Assoc droop guage ??
I'll feed back next Weds night.
Again thanks for the clues.
Jacko
Just kidding ya!
09-23-2007, 09:06 PM
#927
I KNOW 35s are strong. One thing about desperate set up sessions is the number of hits that can be generated. Driving style has got better over the past couple of years, so that might have put a bunch of caution in me not to drive the car flat out until it's working properly. That's growing up for you; not bad for a 58 year old !!
Only part lost so far has been a steering knuckle. That produced some aluminium parts from a good friend for a good price.
So, yes, the Phi is a durable car. I can attest to that.
Jacko
Only part lost so far has been a steering knuckle. That produced some aluminium parts from a good friend for a good price.
So, yes, the Phi is a durable car. I can attest to that.
Jacko
09-25-2007, 01:02 AM
#928
Tech Adept
Hello All,
Can anyone tell me what the advantages or disadvantages are to using different internal gear ratios?..
Also what benefits do you get by using the coupler dots up or down, on foam tire asphalt?
Thanks Ya`All
Can anyone tell me what the advantages or disadvantages are to using different internal gear ratios?..
Also what benefits do you get by using the coupler dots up or down, on foam tire asphalt?
Thanks Ya`All
09-25-2007, 01:13 AM
#929
MoonTrap,
Biggest advantage at this time is that the car can be made suited perfectly for tall gearing as needed for Brushless, as well as short gearing needed for Stock, spec, etc, Brushed classes.
Other then that there are all kind of personal preferences with regards to the diff pulley being too big, so the might understeer, but this is mostly something that lives in peoples minds.
As well as efficincy which should be higher with bigger pulleys, as well as the chances of belt skipping, due to low tension, which allmost can't occur while still maintaining a smoooth drive train.
Like first stated: biggest advantage, suited for BL as well as Brushed.
Biggest advantage at this time is that the car can be made suited perfectly for tall gearing as needed for Brushless, as well as short gearing needed for Stock, spec, etc, Brushed classes.
Other then that there are all kind of personal preferences with regards to the diff pulley being too big, so the might understeer, but this is mostly something that lives in peoples minds.
As well as efficincy which should be higher with bigger pulleys, as well as the chances of belt skipping, due to low tension, which allmost can't occur while still maintaining a smoooth drive train.
Like first stated: biggest advantage, suited for BL as well as Brushed.
09-26-2007, 03:07 AM
#930
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by Lunsford
No, we don't have plans to release parts for the Corally RDX phi,
sorry. If we get alot of interest, this could change.
sorry. If we get alot of interest, this could change.
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