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Old 12-12-2007, 06:04 AM   #1276
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whats up Bill these guys are shimming the bulkheads up .5 of a mm so the batteries fit better

to get a 4800-5000 lipo to fit you would have to shim the bulkheads up at least 4mm maybe more witch would throw everything way out of whack
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:51 AM   #1277
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Originally Posted by trf415ms View Post
I am trying to find an online shop/shops who are stocking the PHi? Mainly looking @ US/Asia areas.

Thanks
Call Jeff Brown at Corally USA to check status on next shipment. You didn't say if you are looking for EU or US version.
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Old 12-13-2007, 08:13 PM   #1278
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anybody ever try not running the o rings in the diff?
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Old 12-13-2007, 08:17 PM   #1279
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yes actually the o rings can cause high spots in the biff i personally think that the diffs build super smooth without the o rings i know a lot of peaole that dont run them
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Old 12-13-2007, 08:43 PM   #1280
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cool thanks goop i kinda felt the same way
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Old 12-13-2007, 09:00 PM   #1281
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yes actually the o rings can cause high spots in the biff i personally think that the diffs build super smooth without the o rings i know a lot of peaole that dont run them
Hi goop,

Without the o-rings, do you get a certain number of runs before having to service the diff?

Thanks.

Bill
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Old 12-13-2007, 09:07 PM   #1282
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I initially built the diffs with the o-rings. My first try I ended up with a high spot in one, but after rebuilding it, that went away. When I rebuilt the diffs for the first time after a couple weekends of racing, I took the o-rings out. I built fresh diffs the first practice day at the Cleveland Indoor Champs, and only had to freshen up the front one near the end of the weekend. This was running both stock and 19t foam. I haven't seen increased degradation when not using the o-rings, and the diffs are very smooth.
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Old 12-13-2007, 09:31 PM   #1283
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Thanks guys!

I will give it a shot.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:15 PM   #1284
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I've been running the orings and havent had any problems with high spots, thats with running stock and 19t foam. I'll have to try it soon though.
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Old 12-14-2007, 01:06 PM   #1285
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I'm a little confused on all these optional belts. If I want to stick with the 42t pulleys and run the shortened wheelbase, what optional parts do I need to get?

BTW Corally. Beautiful car.
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Old 12-14-2007, 02:53 PM   #1286
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I've been running the orings and havent had any problems with high spots, thats with running stock and 19t foam. I'll have to try it soon though.
man we gave johnny the fast secret
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Old 12-14-2007, 08:57 PM   #1287
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Stilskin - If you look at the chart in the back of the manual, it breaks down the different size belts needed for the different final drives as well as for the different wheel bases. You might have to change your final drive in order to shorten the wheel base. You might also need the different diff cams that are centered in order to achieve the correct cvd angle. I hope this helps.

Thanks - Brad
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:24 PM   #1288
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Default Ohhhhhhh Juan

Juan,

I am looking at your setup sheet for this year's Reedy Race and cannot figure out one thing.

How did you get an overall 1.5 degree rear toe-in using only a .5 degree shim on the rear coupler? I could understand it if the .5 shim was on the front coupler (being 2.0 degrees minus .5 degrees).

Thanks amigo.
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Old 12-14-2007, 09:30 PM   #1289
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Stilskin - If you look at the chart in the back of the manual, it breaks down the different size belts needed for the different final drives as well as for the different wheel bases. You might have to change your final drive in order to shorten the wheel base. You might also need the different diff cams that are centered in order to achieve the correct cvd angle. I hope this helps.

Thanks - Brad
Actually, knowing that there is another diff cam just makes it more confusing. At the same time, I just learned something else about the car. This thing is awesome. No need to replace the car every year when you already have this much adjustability. Thanks for the info.
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Old 12-15-2007, 12:43 AM   #1290
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man we gave johnny the fast secret
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