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Old 10-31-2009, 07:37 PM   #3271
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Ok thanks ... I give it a go
Never on top. Wears down the teeth on the belt.
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Old 11-01-2009, 06:57 PM   #3272
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anyyone have these corally parts ? cor 79199 bearing diff holder and cor1131 or 1161 diff bearings.
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:03 AM   #3273
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I'm converting to the 36T pulley and 21T centre pulley combo and have all the parts needed to convert. But have a question though... do I need to change the bearing holders and pulley on the front as well or just the rear? Wasn't clear about this, need help

Thanks.
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:23 AM   #3274
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I'm converting to the 36T pulley and 21T centre pulley combo and have all the parts needed to convert. But have a question though... do I need to change the bearing holders and pulley on the front as well or just the rear? Wasn't clear about this, need help

Thanks.
Roy
Just need to change rear bearing holders and pulley, and front pulley.

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Old 11-07-2009, 01:02 AM   #3275
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Thanks man! Time to proceed with the rebuild

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Just need to change rear bearing holders and pulley, and front pulley.

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Old 11-07-2009, 08:48 AM   #3276
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Originally Posted by f2000racer View Post
I'm converting to the 36T pulley and 21T centre pulley combo and have all the parts needed to convert. But have a question though... do I need to change the bearing holders and pulley on the front as well or just the rear? Wasn't clear about this, need help

Thanks.
Roy
Roy,

Further to the above...

There is the slot where the spur gear shaft is attached and that allows you to take up the slack in the front belt; so, you only change the rear belt to a shorter length.

Bill
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Old 11-14-2009, 07:57 AM   #3277
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i just got a phi as a first touring car i have only raced it once and already smashed a wishbone is this a weak point in it? and also is there any tips to puting a damper together? because it keeps suckinh the rubber top inside
thanks in advance
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:08 AM   #3278
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i just got a phi as a first touring car i have only raced it once and already smashed a wishbone is this a weak point in it? and also is there any tips to puting a damper together? because it keeps suckinh the rubber top inside
thanks in advance
I must say, the wishbone will break if you hit it just right, but I rarely break anything even if I crash. The PHI is a strong car, I still have 2 PHI and 2 PHI 09. The best thing with the damper/shock is to use the tamiya black damper oil seal. Also you must make sure you only tightening the aluminum part and not turn the plastic part of the cap. If it turns on it's own that's fine, but you mustn't turn it.

Ciao
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:49 AM   #3279
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I must say, the wishbone will break if you hit it just right, but I rarely break anything even if I crash. The PHI is a strong car, I still have 2 PHI and 2 PHI 09. The best thing with the damper/shock is to use the tamiya black damper oil seal. Also you must make sure you only tightening the aluminum part and not turn the plastic part of the cap. If it turns on it's own that's fine, but you mustn't turn it.

Ciao
ok thanks one more thing the rear diff spins under accelration and the fron dosnt it is as tight as you would want it but still spins is this normal?
thanks
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Old 11-14-2009, 11:27 AM   #3280
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Thanks for the info Still Bill and PHI/BMI racer.

What Phi rear belt should I use and where can I get one? I tried an x-ray 180mm belt but it's very very tight after installation (used x-ray since I thought it's the same as it's also 180mm size )


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Roy,

Further to the above...

There is the slot where the spur gear shaft is attached and that allows you to take up the slack in the front belt; so, you only change the rear belt to a shorter length.

Bill
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:07 PM   #3281
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ok thanks one more thing the rear diff spins under accelration and the fron dosnt it is as tight as you would want it but still spins is this normal?
thanks
Some people run with a bit of slip on the rear diff, I prefer none. The problem is that the diff will overheat and the back end will be more loose in corners. This will also cause the need for more frequent rebuild of the diff. I am not sure what motor you use, but I been using a 4T so very powerful. I have no slip on the rear diff and run the front a bit tighter. Also you need to make sure the diff is built perfectly, this was my biggest problem when I started racing. The diff is a very important part of the car. Apart from building correctly, you need the right diff balls, diff grease, and the plates need to be worked perfectly. Let me know if you need anymore help...
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:14 PM   #3282
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Thanks for the info Still Bill and PHI/BMI racer.

What Phi rear belt should I use and where can I get one? I tried an x-ray 180mm belt but it's very very tight after installation (used x-ray since I thought it's the same as it's also 180mm size )
Depending on the tension of the front belt I have used the corally short rear belt, if I ran out I used tamiya 415 black rear belt, Robitronics Avid rear belt works too. I recommend the Corally belt, but sometimes I have snapped 3 or 4 and don't have anymore... Some of our tracks here are not that great and it only takes one small stone and snap...
Check in the PHI manual as to which belt you need. It will depend on your set-up. www.stormerhobbies.com has Corally parts (belts), but if you in the USA then the local Corally USA store should have. Best thing would be to phone them.

Caio
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:23 AM   #3283
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Some people run with a bit of slip on the rear diff, I prefer none. The problem is that the diff will overheat and the back end will be more loose in corners. This will also cause the need for more frequent rebuild of the diff. I am not sure what motor you use, but I been using a 4T so very powerful. I have no slip on the rear diff and run the front a bit tighter. Also you need to make sure the diff is built perfectly, this was my biggest problem when I started racing. The diff is a very important part of the car. Apart from building correctly, you need the right diff balls, diff grease, and the plates need to be worked perfectly. Let me know if you need anymore help...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Corally-RDX-Ph...item2a01e2ed6a is the exact 1 i bought and i see the seller every friday he told me that he never used the diffs but the old rdx ones and some one else build these diffs so he dosnt know how it was put together he said he will strip it for me next week and look i will let you know and the motor is a p2k pro 2 torque 103.4 nm so you know
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:11 AM   #3284
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good deal, spare parts are the best...i just picked up my second Phi as a back up car in case anything on my main car breaks

it may end up being used for RCGT too...hmmmm
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:19 PM   #3285
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http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Corally-RDX-Ph...item2a01e2ed6a is the exact 1 i bought and i see the seller every friday he told me that he never used the diffs but the old rdx ones and some one else build these diffs so he dosnt know how it was put together he said he will strip it for me next week and look i will let you know and the motor is a p2k pro 2 torque 103.4 nm so you know
Sorry I thought you had the PHI 09 or at least the new diff. I found the only problem I had with the PHI was the diff. With the new diff. the car is perfect. The one you got cannot be tightened as hard as the new one so it may slip. I also found that it overheats during a race and back end becomes loose. I still managed good racing with it, but I had to drive the car hard. Some people used the RDX diff, but you won't find a better solution then the new diff. I run it with foam tires and a LRP 4T motor and it lasts very long before a rebuild is needed.
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