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Old 06-07-2009, 04:50 PM   #3196
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Originally Posted by PizzaDude View Post
OK I'll bite...

I don't know about the other cars you mentioned, but the TQ/winners car I can assure you had no proto parts whatsoever. All regular, over the counter/available parts.
I agree i always use to run the old car with full standard only addition was tamiya shocks. I tried the mods but i did not like it in modified and my car was super fast just standard.
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:33 AM   #3197
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I agree i always use to run the old car with full standard only addition was tamiya shocks. I tried the mods but i did not like it in modified and my car was super fast just standard.
Same here, only things different from the box were the steering lever and the rear uprights, which both were commericially available, and different shocks.
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Old 06-11-2009, 11:48 AM   #3198
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Default Short Wheelbase Configuration ...

I am wanting to set up my Phi with the short wheel base configuration but am having trouble understanding the rear belt implications. Ive seen posts here before but the discussion seems to end before the solution gets posted.

Im running the stock pulleys and rear hubs, just need to know what size belt and where to get it. I think the stock rear belt is 213mm (71 tooth), and the shorter wheel base is 8mm shorter, so I assume we need to take 16mm (15mm or 18mm since the teeth are 3mm apart) from the belt making it a 195mm (65 tooth) or 198mm (66 tooth) belt. Is this right?

I dont see a belt near this size listed on the Corally site, is there one, or where are people getting these?

Thanks.
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Old 06-11-2009, 11:57 AM   #3199
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I am wanting to set up my Phi with the short wheel base configuration but am having trouble understanding the rear belt implications. Ive seen posts here before but the discussion seems to end before the solution gets posted.

Im running the stock pulleys and rear hubs, just need to know what size belt and where to get it. I think the stock rear belt is 213mm (71 tooth), and the shorter wheel base is 8mm shorter, so I assume we need to take 16mm (15mm or 18mm since the teeth are 3mm apart) from the belt making it a 195mm (65 tooth) or 198mm (66 tooth) belt. Is this right?

I dont see a belt near this size listed on the Corally site, is there one, or where are people getting these?

Thanks.
I've been testing this myself, and had to use belts of another brand the get the car alright. But when I tested it the car was almost uncontrolable, so as an advise, save some time and money, stick to the original wheelbase, that just works best for this car.
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Old 06-11-2009, 02:41 PM   #3200
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I've been testing this myself, and had to use belts of another brand the get the car alright. But when I tested it the car was almost uncontrolable, so as an advise, save some time and money, stick to the original wheelbase, that just works best for this car.
Im not a team driver but have tested std vs. short wheelbase and dampers behind the tower back to back. Both indoors on carpet and outdoors on tarmac the shorter wheelbase setup is ap. 2/10 faster. The car rotates much faster without feeling lose and it has more steering. The std PHI have a very long wheelbase compared to other cars; actually the "super-short" wheelbase is very close to what Tamiya, Xray and others have from the box. Best to say that Im driving modified rubber.
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Old 06-11-2009, 03:54 PM   #3201
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Im not a team driver but have tested std vs. short wheelbase and dampers behind the tower back to back. Both indoors on carpet and outdoors on tarmac the shorter wheelbase setup is ap. 2/10 faster. The car rotates much faster without feeling lose and it has more steering. The std PHI have a very long wheelbase compared to other cars; actually the "super-short" wheelbase is very close to what Tamiya, Xray and others have from the box. Best to say that Im driving modified rubber.
So am I (mod, rubber), but with the short wheelbase I was missing out to much grip in the rear, also the car was hard to drive steady, you can be fast one lap but hard to keep it up 5 minutes without overdriving the car.

I'll upload my std wheelbase setup this weekend, it has a lot of steering and is also fast on the tighter shorter tracks. But still holds enough grip in the rear.
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:51 PM   #3202
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I done extensive testing with both and I've found the car is best on asphalt
(17.5/13.5) with the narrow steering blocks and super short wheelbase.
I do not run the 42T pullies so I dont know what belt you would use.
You can always call Corally USA and ask.

If you would like, I can post my rubber asphalt setup or send it too you.

Mike
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:33 AM   #3203
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Check out the photos of my Phi with super short wheel base at this link,
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5533118-post291.html

You need to use 36 tooth pulleys front and rear, use the standard front belt and a Tamiya MSX or 416 rear belt.

I have only raced it in mod and bitumen and found it to be very very good with good steering and exellent rear grip.

Rhys
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Old 06-12-2009, 07:47 AM   #3204
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Check out the photos of my Phi with super short wheel base at this link,
http://www.rctech.net/forum/5533118-post291.html

You need to use 36 tooth pulleys front and rear, use the standard front belt and a Tamiya MSX or 416 rear belt.

I have only raced it in mod and bitumen and found it to be very very good with good steering and exellent rear grip.

Rhys
Hi, I had a look at the pics of your car. May I ask how you get the weight of the car to be above the minimum required without any weights? and if you add weights where do you put them to get the car to be balanced correctly, side to side and cross weight?

Thanks...
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:02 AM   #3205
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We race in two different locations, one with a 1425 gram weight limit and the other with a 1525 weight limit.
With the 1425 limit i was able to place some weights on the inside of the lipo tray, then when we do the 1525 limit i place some more weight on the outer side of the lipo itself.
When placing the weights on, i use balance pins to get the weight in the correct spots, you can get it to balance pretty good.
In the pic there are no weights placed on the car as it had just been rewirred and rebuilt, hope this helps.

Rhys
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:12 AM   #3206
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Originally Posted by PHI/BMI racer View Post
Hi, I had a look at the pics of your car. May I ask how you get the weight of the car to be above the minimum required without any weights? and if you add weights where do you put them to get the car to be balanced correctly, side to side and cross weight?

Thanks...
When using the Specialized Battery Adapter Tray, you can use a 5000-6000 mahr battery in the car. That brings up the weight significantly from less hefty lipo packs. Otherwise, with the tray you can run any needed weight basically down the center of the car.

FYI...At this year's IIC, Scotty has dropped the minimum weight for TC to 1425 gm. A very thoughtful move to accommodate our lipo setups. Hopefully, ROAR and other organizations will follow suit.

Bill
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:17 AM   #3207
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I done extensive testing with both and I've found the car is best on asphalt (17.5/13.5) with the narrow steering blocks and super short wheelbase.
Mike
Ditto!
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:04 AM   #3208
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Originally Posted by crabboy View Post
We race in two different locations, one with a 1425 gram weight limit and the other with a 1525 weight limit.
With the 1425 limit i was able to place some weights on the inside of the lipo tray, then when we do the 1525 limit i place some more weight on the outer side of the lipo itself.
When placing the weights on, i use balance pins to get the weight in the correct spots, you can get it to balance pretty good.
In the pic there are no weights placed on the car as it had just been rewirred and rebuilt, hope this helps.

Rhys
I see you mention you use pins to balance your car, but that only balances left to right, what about cross weight? If the cross weight is not balanced the car will over steer the one way and under steer the other way...
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Old 06-12-2009, 12:48 PM   #3209
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I see you mention you use pins to balance your car, but that only balances left to right, what about cross weight? If the cross weight is not balanced the car will over steer the one way and under steer the other way...
Agree with PHI/BMI racer about cross weights. I use mini scales for the initial setup to get the four corners done properly.

At the track, I use Irrgang Racing Balance Buttons for checking when adding minor amounts of weight. The buttons are much more accurate than old style balance pins.

Bill
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Old 06-12-2009, 09:58 PM   #3210
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I dont quite agree with that, i think if the car was not balanced left to right (on the balance pins) that would affect steering.....i think.

Rhys

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If the cross weight is not balanced the car will over steer the one way and under steer the other way...
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