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Old 01-13-2009, 06:52 AM   #2941
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They give you more steering.
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Old 01-13-2009, 06:54 AM   #2942
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Originally Posted by kobiwan View Post
What difference does the narrow steering blocks make?
The narrow blocks move the camber link out farther into the wheel, which yields more steering.

Remember that when using these you will need to put spacers behind the couplers to get the track width back out to 190mm. If I remember right it was like 2mm of shims is what I ended up having to use. Been awhile since I ran them.
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Old 01-13-2009, 07:10 AM   #2943
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thanks for that

I guess ill sell these off and get the normal alloy knuckles.
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:10 AM   #2944
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01 View Post
thanks for that

I guess ill sell these off and get the normal alloy knuckles.
The Narrow steering blocks are specially made if yiu run Rear arms in front!

Greetings Ollie
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Old 01-13-2009, 05:32 PM   #2945
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Has anyone tried the lipo tray for the PHI? Does it fit right and still balance well?
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:49 PM   #2946
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01 View Post
thanks for that

kid,

I guess ill sell these off and get the normal alloy knuckles.
Please know that I prefer the narrow blocks over the normal. Especially for asphalt which I assume is what you do. My Phi always needs more steering.

Bill
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Old 01-13-2009, 08:50 PM   #2947
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Originally Posted by rcracenut View Post
Has anyone tried the lipo tray for the PHI? Does it fit right and still balance well?
It's pretty much your only option for LiPo. And it works very very well. You'll still need to add weights here and there.
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:51 PM   #2948
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couple questions guys
what does running the short rear wheel base achieve and also what parts are nesscary?
also can i increase my rear toe in by adding a shim to the rear mount? how thick should the shim be?
cheers guys
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:45 PM   #2949
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703 View Post
couple questions guys
what does running the short rear wheel base achieve and also what parts are nesscary?
also can i increase my rear toe in by adding a shim to the rear mount? how thick should the shim be?
cheers guys
To change the toe in the rear, it's done by using the 0.4mm shims for .5 degree or .8mm for 1 deg.

A short wheel base will make the car feel better in tighter turns (more reactive ) on smaller tracks. Makes the car less stable larger tracks with open flowing turns. To change the wheel base simply move the shims to rear of the arm to make the wheel base shorter, or shims to the front of the arm for a longer wheel base.
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Old 01-19-2009, 12:48 AM   #2950
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Originally Posted by rcracenut View Post
Has anyone tried the lipo tray for the PHI? Does it fit right and still balance well?
I will try to post some pics of how I have my weights positioned. I guess it will all depend on what type of equipment you are running but hopefully it will give you a good baseline and eliminate some of the trial and error.
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Old 01-19-2009, 08:47 PM   #2951
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703 View Post
couple questions guys
what does running the short rear wheel base achieve and also what parts are nesscary?
also can i increase my rear toe in by adding a shim to the rear mount? how thick should the shim be?
cheers guys
Josh,

Contrary to what was indicated earlier, the short wheelbase is achieved by moving the Rear Coupler Clamps forward about half a centimeter. You just mount them in the provided holes on the chassis plate.

I use this positioning for both carpet and asphalt setups these days...even on long tracks. Gives the car more steering.

I also use the 36T pulleys with this setup to help with the gearing required for brushless motors. Used a Tamiya 415 short rear belt because Corally didn't have anything suitable at the time...But, they may now. The belt is the only special part you need for such. The 36T pulleys are optional.

Cheers!

Bill
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Old 01-20-2009, 03:40 AM   #2952
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
Josh,

Contrary to what was indicated earlier, the short wheelbase is achieved by moving the Rear Coupler Clamps forward about half a centimeter. You just mount them in the provided holes on the chassis plate.

I use this positioning for both carpet and asphalt setups these days...even on long tracks. Gives the car more steering.

I also use the 36T pulleys with this setup to help with the gearing required for brushless motors. Used a Tamiya 415 short rear belt because Corally didn't have anything suitable at the time...But, they may now. The belt is the only special part you need for such. The 36T pulleys are optional.

Cheers!

Bill
you a legend,
but my questions continue
i just finished my second meet with my phi and now have to rebuild the diff... again.. its not the 08 diff but i have several gripes i hope some one knows how to solve.
1 the thrust bearing is uncaged so they roll every where and ive almost lost one a few times.
second gripe is when trying to assemble the two out drives together sandwiching the pulley diff balls and diff rings, i find that i always seem to have a diff ring come away from the out drive and is a pain in the but to get re aligned.

final grip it the openness of the diff itself i run in dusty conditions so is there any way to seal the thrust and diff balls?
cheers guys i know the 08 diff is better but im not sure of the differences can any one tell me?
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Old 01-20-2009, 07:11 AM   #2953
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Originally Posted by aus jd 2703 View Post
you a legend,
but my questions continue
i just finished my second meet with my phi and now have to rebuild the diff... again.. its not the 08 diff but i have several gripes i hope some one knows how to solve.
1 the thrust bearing is uncaged so they roll every where and ive almost lost one a few times.
second gripe is when trying to assemble the two out drives together sandwiching the pulley diff balls and diff rings, i find that i always seem to have a diff ring come away from the out drive and is a pain in the but to get re aligned.

final grip it the openness of the diff itself i run in dusty conditions so is there any way to seal the thrust and diff balls?
cheers guys i know the 08 diff is better but im not sure of the differences can any one tell me?

there was a good suggestion a while ago, cut a piece of a thin balloon (the long ones for making animals) and slide that over the outside of the diff on the thrust side. The 08 diffs are awesome though.
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Old 01-20-2009, 01:52 PM   #2954
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703 View Post
you a legend,
but my questions continue
i just finished my second meet with my phi and now have to rebuild the diff... again.. its not the 08 diff but i have several gripes i hope some one knows how to solve.
1 the thrust bearing is uncaged so they roll every where and ive almost lost one a few times.
second gripe is when trying to assemble the two out drives together sandwiching the pulley diff balls and diff rings, i find that i always seem to have a diff ring come away from the out drive and is a pain in the but to get re aligned.

final grip it the openness of the diff itself i run in dusty conditions so is there any way to seal the thrust and diff balls?
cheers guys i know the 08 diff is better but im not sure of the differences can any one tell me?

Josh see me next time at meakin i'll rebuild the diff with a flanged bearing.
A great improvement over the thrust balls.

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Old 01-20-2009, 05:53 PM   #2955
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As for the diff ring falling off of the diff half. Put a very small bead of diff grease around the diff half before you put the ring on it. That should provide enough "tack" to hold it in place long enough to build the diff.
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