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Old 01-05-2009, 11:55 AM   #2926
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Regarding the new diffs, do they use the thrust bearing assembly? or use the flanged bearing, cone washers, and metal nut that just comes in the new diff kit packages?
correct no thrust bearing assembly, just use the stuff in the 08 diff package.. Just make sure you install the flange bearing correctly, or the diff will just fall apart.. It took me several attempts before the light bulb went off in my head..
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:01 PM   #2927
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correct no thrust bearing assembly, just use the stuff in the 08 diff package.. Just make sure you install the flange bearing correctly, or the diff will just fall apart.. It took me several attempts before the light bulb went off in my head..
I can see initially how its confusing. I was just piecing the parts together and the assembly only made sense once i put the flanged bearing in through the area where the metal nut is, not where the ring seats on the outdrive. Thanks!
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:37 PM   #2928
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Default asphalt setup...

here follows a great setup for asphalt w/ rubber tires and superstock motor........

lots of steering and great stability.................

running front pro dive and with readjusted bumpsteering the car rotates very well and consistently, under breaking and on throttle.......

for mod racing I'd use more rear toe-in only...........
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:13 PM   #2929
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Default rollout for carpet

what rollout's are people running for 10.5 and 13.5?
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Old 01-07-2009, 04:00 PM   #2930
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hey kenny where can i get the hubs because on the site it shows up as the old 1s and wat about the new chassis? let me know
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Old 01-07-2009, 04:08 PM   #2931
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hey kenny where can i get the hubs because on the site it shows up as the old 1s and wat about the new chassis? let me know
code is 79299A
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Old 01-07-2009, 07:19 PM   #2932
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thanx for that .... are they universal because it only has rr ie right rear? and wats the shim part #
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Old 01-07-2009, 07:37 PM   #2933
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thanx for that .... are they universal because it only has rr ie right rear? and wats the shim part #
they are 0, so they work on both sides.......

for the shims you can use any shim with 3mm inned diameter, most common is "3x6xthickness"

you also will need ball studs like 79264 and/or 79264 to be able to play with roll center fine adjustments. any 4.3mm ball stud longer than the stock one will work as well.......
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Old 01-08-2009, 08:23 AM   #2934
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Which shock towers do most run for Carpet Rubber. (Standard or Low)

I recently ordered the standard rear shock tower and realized, once I received it, my car has the "Low" front and rear shock towers. Could explain why my shock collars are all the way up in the front at 5mm ride height.

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Old 01-08-2009, 09:27 AM   #2935
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Which shock towers do most run for Carpet Rubber. (Standard or Low)

I recently ordered the standard rear shock tower and realized, once I received it, my car has the "Low" front and rear shock towers. Could explain why my shock collars are all the way up in the front at 5mm ride height.

Christopher
Chris- I run the std. Tower for rubber (asphalt or carpet).
As for the collars being all the way up at 5mm RH, you can do one of two very simple things or as I have done in the past both. LOL

You can unscrew the bottom eyelet out about 3-4 turns or you can get some AE shock retainers. They are not as "deep" as the Corally ones which will let the spring sit lower giving you more adjustment.

Hope this helps!
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:17 PM   #2936
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Thanks Imprsme. I think I just need to throw the standard shock tower on the front. Using the low front tower doesn't allow me to set the droop I want without starting the compress the shocks.


New question. I really like the RPM ballcups, is there a way to get them less stiff? I see them on a hand full of cars and wonder how they can use them when the are so tight. Wouldn't that extra binding mess with the suspension?
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Old 01-08-2009, 02:21 PM   #2937
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Thanks Imprsme. I think I just need to throw the standard shock tower on the front. Using the low front tower doesn't allow me to set the droop I want without starting the compress the shocks.
Chris- the turning out of the bottom eyelet will allow you to get droop better set also.

I know in the past when running the lower tower some guys were cutting the shock shafts I think something like 3-4mm but I found that just by unscrewing and running the AE retainer I got the settings I needed.

As for the RPM's never ran them so I can help on that.
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Old 01-13-2009, 04:59 AM   #2938
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Hi All

I ordered the alloy narrow steering blocks for the Phi. Now the wheel hexes wont tighten enough so theres heaps of movement with the cvds.

Do i need to get other hexes now to fix the play ?
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Old 01-13-2009, 06:40 AM   #2939
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Hi All

I ordered the alloy narrow steering blocks for the Phi. Now the wheel hexes wont tighten enough so theres heaps of movement with the cvds.

Do i need to get other hexes now to fix the play ?
With the shorter knuckles you also need shorter axles and longer cvds.

You will need part numbers:
COR79184A
COR79182A
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Old 01-13-2009, 06:44 AM   #2940
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Originally Posted by kid TT-01 View Post
Hi All

I ordered the alloy narrow steering blocks for the Phi. Now the wheel hexes wont tighten enough so theres heaps of movement with the cvds.

Do i need to get other hexes now to fix the play ?
What difference does the narrow steering blocks make?
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