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Old 05-14-2008, 10:58 AM   #2026
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Mike:

I have not tried the super short wheelbase yet, however I have tried/am running the narrow steering blocks. I noticed that I gained a lot of initial steering when I switched to them. The car was more alive off center, and switched direction much faster through chicaines. However I did not notice a difference in the amount of steering gained through the middle of the corner and off.

P.S. How do you post a set-up? Does the setup sheet have to be hosted somewhere on the internet first?

Steve
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:02 AM   #2027
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Steve... Cool... I just type it out . But i do think it would have to be saved as pdf file and uploaded on here as a attachment...


Mike
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Old 05-14-2008, 11:49 AM   #2028
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Originally Posted by Mike Blackstock View Post
Brad... I use the kimbrough mid also... I use the short ball from corally facing towards the servo.. i over drill the hole and put the silver thread thingy in there thread it in there . It tightens perfect and will not hit the top deck
The silver thing i am talking about i do not know the name of but it is used on the top deck and the front bumper... Hope this helps..

Mike
I was planing on doing the same thing, but could not find a silver thread thing. I ordered a lower bumper since it has them in there, but it didnt come with any. Can you buy those seperate?
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Old 05-14-2008, 02:03 PM   #2029
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The old RDX lower bumpers did not have the threaded inserts, the screw just threaded into the plastic. The phi lower bumper comes with the inserts.
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Old 05-14-2008, 03:41 PM   #2030
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The super short wheelbase is really cool. It really helps the car turn in and rotate well in all the low speed stuff. It hasn't shown any ill effects in the long sweeping corners either.


-Korey
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Old 05-14-2008, 04:57 PM   #2031
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Originally Posted by R.Dalnogare View Post
I was planing on doing the same thing, but could not find a silver thread thing. I ordered a lower bumper since it has them in there, but it didnt come with any. Can you buy those seperate?
I believe what you are looking for is the Aluminum insert nut, M3. Part number COR1255.
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Old 05-14-2008, 06:08 PM   #2032
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Originally Posted by S.Bortolotti View Post
I have been practicing Modified for the Reedy Race, but the tempteratures up here in Canada have been quite cool from a seasonal standpoint which might feel like freezing for most of you! I have been practicing outdoors in weather that has been overcast and 50deg, and with only two days of constructive outdoor practice I have experimented with a lot of the stuff I have been reading about here and would like to share a few ideas with you guys.

I tried running the TA-05 diff in the rear, and it seems to work great. No better than the stock Corally diff, however it does seem to keep the dirt out and last longer resulting in fewer re-builds when running on sometimes dusty outdoor surfaces (that is the only reason I decided to make the switch).

As for getting the car to rotate better I have experimented with both the mid (stock) and the short (all shims behind the arm) and I found the car to work better through the middle and off the corner best with the stock wheelbase (with the longer wheelbase, there is more weight on the front wheels).

I'm running 1deg of sweep in the car aswell. I have met people who call this adjustment different names so I consider it/I put a 1mm shim behind the front, front hingepin coupler. This helps the car turn harder through the middle of the corner and really gets it to rotate better. Don't forget to re-adjust your toe-out on the front before you hit the track!

I have done away with sway-bars just because the grip here has been sufficient, but nothing spectacular. If the weather is decent this weekend I will try running the car with sway-bars and let you guys know how it goes.

I'm running 5-cell with the batteries forward, and the 2.5mm chassis. I will post a complete set-up when I get home from work, because typing all this up has gotten to be rather extensive!

Steve
In California, we are fortunate to be able to run year round. I had my car working really well with the couplers in the long position and shimmed short (yeah I tried all sorts of combos of toe/shimming/ etc.), but when we switched to the Reedy handout, then rotation really became an issue and a bad push mid to exit became big. After switching the car over to the shorter couplers it helped, but with everything else it was subtle. Now we've tried springing up to stiffer springs and even trying shimming the arms to make even shorter which seems to help. The Sorex 36 premounts don't seem to respond the way the RP30s did, but they do give lots of traction.
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Old 05-14-2008, 07:41 PM   #2033
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
The super short wheelbase is really cool. It really helps the car turn in and rotate well in all the low speed stuff. It hasn't shown any ill effects in the long sweeping corners either.


-Korey
what parts do i need to run super short? short belt and optional bearing holders?
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Old 05-15-2008, 01:16 AM   #2034
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what parts do i need to run super short? short belt and optional bearing holders?
If you run 36/18 pulleys you just have to get 415 front and rear belt. No optional bearing holders.

I think you need more stuff with the std pulleys.
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Old 05-15-2008, 06:09 AM   #2035
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So here is the set-up I have been running. It works great through the middle and off the corner, but it still lacks steering getting into the corner. However it should still be a good starting point at most tracks. I ran Sorex 28R's because the weather is still to cool for 36R's. As I said earlier I would like to try dropping the front and rear spring rate and putting the 1.3mm anti-roll bars on the car (Front to Tamiya Blue and Rear to 17 - Tamiya Blue is somewhere between 17 and 20 I find and is longer which makes for less pre-load).

FRONT:

Caster: 4 deg
Toe-Out: 0.5 deg
Camber: -1.5
Ride Height: 5mm
Wishbone: 35
Wheelbase: Short
F Coupler: Dot up
R Coupler: Dot up
Downstops: 2.0 up
Anti-roll bar: none
Front Width: 187mm
Front Drive: Spool
Front Pulley: 42T
Steering: stock
F Coupler shims: 1.0mm
R Coupler shims: 0mm
Oil: 40wt
Piston: 3-hole Tamiya
Rebound: 50%
Spring: 20lbs
Shock Tower: Stock
Steering Block: Narrow
Coupler Clamp: Stock
Clamp Shims: None
Shock Position: Inside hole on arm and tower (laid down)
Steering Link: Inside hole of knuckle
Camber Link: Low and inside

REAR:

Anti-squat: None
Toe-in: 2.0 deg
Camber: -1.5 deg
Ride Height: 5mm
Wishbone: 35
Wheelbase: Mid
F Coupler: Dot Down
R Coupler: Dot Down
Downstops: 2.5 up
Anti-roll bar: none
Rear Width: 189mm
Center Pulley: 21T
Rear Pulley: 42T
F Coupler Shims: 0mm
R Coupler Shims: 0mm
Oil: 35wt
Piston: 3-hole Tamiya
Rebound: 50%
Spring: Tamiya Blue
Shock Tower: Stock
Upright: 0 toe-in
Coupler Clamp: Stock
Clamp Shims: none
Shock Position: inside hole on tower, middle on arm
Camber Link: Outside hole on upright, down and inside on shock tower
Upright: Mounted in outside hole on arm

OTHERS

Tires: Sorex 28R
Motor: 3.5
Ratio: 8.6 Final Drive
Tire Additive: Buggy Grip & Tire Tweak
Spur: 104
Body: Mazdaspeed 6
Wing: Stock, mounted as far back as possible
Lead Weights: 14g in-front of batteries, 7g beside receiver, rest to make weight behind batteries

Notes: Tamiya Shocks, batteries forward, tire warmers set at 60deg for 20min with tire tweak, smooth surface, cold weather, medium grip

If you have any questions or I missed something I will be glad to help/fill you in

Steve
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Old 05-15-2008, 11:56 PM   #2036
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Just finished building up my PHI, I will be running 27 turn stock and wanting to know if it is possible to run without the belt tensioner on to reduce drag or will there be belt issues ?
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:05 AM   #2037
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I have never actually used the belt tensioner, in all classes of racing
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Old 05-16-2008, 11:15 AM   #2038
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Just finished building up my PHI, I will be running 27 turn stock and wanting to know if it is possible to run without the belt tensioner on to reduce drag or will there be belt issues ?
As Korey said you probably don't need the belt tensioner in stock and definitely won't use it if you change to the short coupler wheelbase conversion. With such large pulleys, it shouldn't really be an issue.
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Old 05-16-2008, 12:51 PM   #2039
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In California, we are fortunate to be able to run year round. I had my car working really well with the couplers in the long position and shimmed short (yeah I tried all sorts of combos of toe/shimming/ etc.), but when we switched to the Reedy handout, then rotation really became an issue and a bad push mid to exit became big. After switching the car over to the shorter couplers it helped, but with everything else it was subtle. Now we've tried springing up to stiffer springs and even trying shimming the arms to make even shorter which seems to help. The Sorex 36 premounts don't seem to respond the way the RP30s did, but they do give lots of traction.
Thanks, I will give it a try this weekend.
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Old 05-16-2008, 01:19 PM   #2040
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Originally Posted by Still Bill View Post
And removing that center brace sure helped me avoid chassis tweek issues on my asphalt car. Will try doing it during carpet season too.
Hey Bill,

I heard you called yesterday about the short wheelbase. I built my new car with it. The only items needed would be the 36T pulleys and a Tamiya belt. The part number for the belt is TAM53707. It will allow you to run the coupler clamps in the short position with the 1.71 drive ratio. You just flip over the diff holders.

It will also allow you to put the shocktower on the frontside of the rear mount to help with shock angle.

Also, I am running the narrowed knuckles on the front. I took the rear arms and dremeled them out to accept the C-hubs. You put the C-hub in the outside position of the arm. I also use the optional two hole rear hubs and run the hingepin in the outside hole as well. You will need no shims on the front end if you use the rear arms.

Jeff
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