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Old 05-09-2008, 03:46 PM   #2011
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simon thanks for the posts... I am getting ready for the reedy race so any info about outdoors for me will be a great....


Mike
Make your car turn tons, cause the hand out tire makes your car push. We did the warm up race and there was good traction but it made the cars push everywhere.
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Old 05-12-2008, 01:31 PM   #2012
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Thanks carl... Working on that now... But since i do not run outdoors to often i will be at a disadvantage .. But toso should be good...

Mike
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:00 PM   #2013
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anybody have a set-up for outdoor high speed track 10.5-13.5

this is the track
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Team Corally RDX Phi-kraceway.jpg  
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Old 05-12-2008, 02:26 PM   #2014
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Thanks carl... Working on that now... But since i do not run outdoors to often i will be at a disadvantage .. But toso should be good...

Mike
Most of the guys are running the ultra short wheelbase outdoors and seems to get you there much better. From there, we've even went shorter by shimming the arms. My car isn't quite there yet for the tires, but getting closer. Heavier springs seem to wake the car up too. With the longer wheelbase, even when shimmed short, it just doesn't want to rotate as much. Hope to see you at Reedy Race.
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:36 AM   #2015
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In the setup sheets, when its mentioned that you remove the chassis stiffner, is that the cross brace that runs between the back bulkheads? I'm refering to part#79707 called the bulkhead center brace.
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:56 AM   #2016
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In the setup sheets, when its mentioned that you remove the chassis stiffner, is that the cross brace that runs between the back bulkheads? I'm refering to part#79707 called the bulkhead center brace.
Yep, that's it.
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Old 05-13-2008, 08:40 PM   #2017
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In the setup sheets, when its mentioned that you remove the chassis stiffner, is that the cross brace that runs between the back bulkheads? I'm refering to part#79707 called the bulkhead center brace.
And removing that center brace sure helped me avoid chassis tweek issues on my asphalt car. Will try doing it during carpet season too.
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Old 05-14-2008, 05:03 AM   #2018
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Hey Carl,

I think I met you at vegas last year? Anyway, about the tamiya diff in the phi, it depends on which size pulley/gear ratio/wheelbase you wanna run. If you want to run the stock 42T pulley you use the Corally pulley, diff balls, and diff rings(they drop right onto the tamiya diff halves). Everything else is from the tamiya diff. If you want to run the 36T pulley you can just use a straight TA05 diff, pullies and all and drop it right in. You just have to use the tamiya blades on the corally CVDs. Also they'll be a ton of side to side slop in the holders so with the bumps on the diff holders facing out, take the bearings and move them to the inside (flat) side of the diff holders. You'll still have to add a ton of shims to center the pulley and take out the play, but that gets you a lot closer.

Another thing that Bitter and Korey came up with is using the stock center pullies, and the 36T diff pullies, with the stock (169T, 507mm) front belt and a tamiya 415 rear belt, with the rear diff holder flipped to the ultra short wheelbase conversion. This will give you the ultra short wheelbase and a 1.71 internal ratio which is awesome for brushless. It also lets you move the center shaft and motor back a good bit to get the weight off the nose of the car. The belts are a little tight with this setup, so I have a hot bodies 170T, 510mm belt on order, and I think with a tensioner it should free up the drivetrain considerably.

Let me know if you have any questions or need any more info.

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Iīve been using pulley combo 36/18 with Tamiya 415 front and rear belt and the ultra short wheelbase. No problem with belt tension.
Only problem I have is that I canīt get the rear camber links to be straight. Either they can be mounted angled backwards or forwards but never straight.
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Old 05-14-2008, 08:56 AM   #2019
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Iīve been using pulley combo 36/18 with Tamiya 415 front and rear belt and the ultra short wheelbase. No problem with belt tension.
Only problem I have is that I canīt get the rear camber links to be straight. Either they can be mounted angled backwards or forwards but never straight.
I have the rear camber links on the back side of the hubs and the back side of the shock tower. They are angled back slightly, but not enough to be concerned about. I also have the rear arms pushed as far forward as possible using the wheelbase shims, so that helps a little. If you're really concerned you could add some shims between the ball stud and the rear tower, or use a slightly longer ballstud to get the links straight, but I don't think it's that big of a deal as long as it doesn't bind the suspension.

-James
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:00 AM   #2020
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Your car sucks. #2.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:07 AM   #2021
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Not as much as #1's Hicks.
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Old 05-14-2008, 09:15 AM   #2022
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I have been practicing Modified for the Reedy Race, but the tempteratures up here in Canada have been quite cool from a seasonal standpoint which might feel like freezing for most of you! I have been practicing outdoors in weather that has been overcast and 50deg, and with only two days of constructive outdoor practice I have experimented with a lot of the stuff I have been reading about here and would like to share a few ideas with you guys.

I tried running the TA-05 diff in the rear, and it seems to work great. No better than the stock Corally diff, however it does seem to keep the dirt out and last longer resulting in fewer re-builds when running on sometimes dusty outdoor surfaces (that is the only reason I decided to make the switch).

As for getting the car to rotate better I have experimented with both the mid (stock) and the short (all shims behind the arm) and I found the car to work better through the middle and off the corner best with the stock wheelbase (with the longer wheelbase, there is more weight on the front wheels).

I'm running 1deg of sweep in the car aswell. I have met people who call this adjustment different names so I consider it/I put a 1mm shim behind the front, front hingepin coupler. This helps the car turn harder through the middle of the corner and really gets it to rotate better. Don't forget to re-adjust your toe-out on the front before you hit the track!

I have done away with sway-bars just because the grip here has been sufficient, but nothing spectacular. If the weather is decent this weekend I will try running the car with sway-bars and let you guys know how it goes.

I'm running 5-cell with the batteries forward, and the 2.5mm chassis. I will post a complete set-up when I get home from work, because typing all this up has gotten to be rather extensive!

Steve
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:35 AM   #2023
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I have a quick question for you guys I just got my PHI and am looking for a servo saver I have the mid size kimbrough and it rubs the top deck and I have to space the ball end out to get the link straight
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:42 AM   #2024
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Brad... I use the kimbrough mid also... I use the short ball from corally facing towards the servo.. i over drill the hole and put the silver thread thingy in there thread it in there . It tightens perfect and will not hit the top deck
The silver thing i am talking about i do not know the name of but it is used on the top deck and the front bumper... Hope this helps..

Mike
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Old 05-14-2008, 10:44 AM   #2025
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Steve....

Awesome.. I am in the process of building my car for the reedy race right now...

Have you played with the super short wheel base or short steering blocks??

Mike
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