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Old 04-21-2008, 10:11 AM   #1966
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Originally Posted by HenBeav View Post
has anyone tried a SMC 4000 or 5000 lipo pack in a rubber spec phi?
I've tried the 4000 and it fits fine.
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:09 PM   #1967
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Alright, no need to get all worked up hahaha.

James and I were discussing things about the diffs and he had been fiddling around with ideas and he got a ta05 diff to drop in.

The curious guy I am, decided to try it out for myself. Now, the Phi diff works great, but you just have to babysit it a bit. Some people liek to use the normal bearing for a thrust bearing trick, but I hated how the diff performed with that setup instead of a typical thrust bearing. In order for it to not slip, the diff had to be retarded tight so it never worked all that hot. The plain stock phi diff with carbide diff balls was great. That is... untill you got junk in the thrust bearing. After you clean it up it's fine. So the key thing for me was just keeping it clean.

The ta05 diff just lasts a little longer since the thrust is enclosed in the outdrive. I haven't noticed any performance differences. I haven't had any problems with it changing settings either.

Other things I've been trying since we're on the subject. So... now that we have these cool narrowed steering blocks I've been running those. I've also been dremeling out the rear arms a bit so I can use them up front.

Why you may ask?

Well, the rear arms as you know have two different positions for the rear hub. With the optional rear hub 79299 you can run the outer hole without changing the width of the car, effectively lengthening the suspension arm.

So with this idea in mind, I dremeled out the rear arms so I could fit the front steering block/c hub assembly in there on the outer hole. In order for this to work without making the front of thr car crazy wide, I had to use the new narrow steering blocks, the axle and driveshaft that is required for those, and some narrow hex adapters. But, in the end, I basically lengthened the suspension arms front and rear. This resulted in more mechanical grip for rubber tire racing

I've also been messing with the super short wheelbase (the different set of holes for the rear clamps). It seemed to work really good on my home track (Seattle Indoor Raceway). It's a very small and tight carpet track (we put carpet on top of the asphalt...). Anyway, it;s been working pretty good. It just really helps with low speed, very technical tracks if you're running a spool.

-Korey
Ok, I'm very interested in the Tao5 diff swap. Question- does it drop right in, or is the width different and do you use the Tamiya pulley or swap with Corally one, etc.? More info please.
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:17 PM   #1968
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Default TA05 Diff swap into Phi

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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Ok, I'm very interested in the Tao5 diff swap. Question- does it drop right in, or is the width different and do you use the Tamiya pulley or swap with Corally one, etc.? More info please.
Hey Carl,

I think I met you at vegas last year? Anyway, about the tamiya diff in the phi, it depends on which size pulley/gear ratio/wheelbase you wanna run. If you want to run the stock 42T pulley you use the Corally pulley, diff balls, and diff rings(they drop right onto the tamiya diff halves). Everything else is from the tamiya diff. If you want to run the 36T pulley you can just use a straight TA05 diff, pullies and all and drop it right in. You just have to use the tamiya blades on the corally CVDs. Also they'll be a ton of side to side slop in the holders so with the bumps on the diff holders facing out, take the bearings and move them to the inside (flat) side of the diff holders. You'll still have to add a ton of shims to center the pulley and take out the play, but that gets you a lot closer.

Another thing that Bitter and Korey came up with is using the stock center pullies, and the 36T diff pullies, with the stock (169T, 507mm) front belt and a tamiya 415 rear belt, with the rear diff holder flipped to the ultra short wheelbase conversion. This will give you the ultra short wheelbase and a 1.71 internal ratio which is awesome for brushless. It also lets you move the center shaft and motor back a good bit to get the weight off the nose of the car. The belts are a little tight with this setup, so I have a hot bodies 170T, 510mm belt on order, and I think with a tensioner it should free up the drivetrain considerably.

Let me know if you have any questions or need any more info.

-James
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Old 04-23-2008, 01:59 PM   #1969
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Ok, I'm very interested in the Tao5 diff swap. Question- does it drop right in, or is the width different and do you use the Tamiya pulley or swap with Corally one, etc.? More info please.
Sup Carl! I haven't seen you in ages... The last memory I have of you is the exploding battery 2 pits away form me! hahaha

-Korey
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:47 PM   #1970
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Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Hey Carl,

I think I met you at vegas last year? Anyway, about the tamiya diff in the phi, it depends on which size pulley/gear ratio/wheelbase you wanna run. If you want to run the stock 42T pulley you use the Corally pulley, diff balls, and diff rings(they drop right onto the tamiya diff halves). Everything else is from the tamiya diff. If you want to run the 36T pulley you can just use a straight TA05 diff, pullies and all and drop it right in. You just have to use the tamiya blades on the corally CVDs. Also they'll be a ton of side to side slop in the holders so with the bumps on the diff holders facing out, take the bearings and move them to the inside (flat) side of the diff holders. You'll still have to add a ton of shims to center the pulley and take out the play, but that gets you a lot closer.

6 on dropAnother thing that Bitter and Korey came up with is using the stock center pullies, and the 36T diff pullies, with the stock (169T, 507mm) front belt and a tamiya 415 rear belt, with the rear diff holder flipped to the ultra short wheelbase conversion. This will give you the ultra short wheelbase and a 1.71 internal ratio which is awesome for brushless. It also lets you move the center shaft and motor back a good bit to get the weight off the nose of the car. The belts are a little tight with this setup, so I have a hot bodies 170T, 510mm belt on order, and I think with a tensioner it should free up the drivetrain considerably.

Let me know if you have any questions or need any more info.

-James
James,
Good to hear from you again. Yeah, me, Bitter and Tony Fiorella have been racing a bunch and swapping results almost every weekend. I know about Bitter's conversion, but haven't tried it yet. My set up is a little unusual, but works awesome. I've been tweaking and trying all sorts of stuff for months now and have gotten the car really good. I'm using the 2mm steering balls in the hub carries and its really steep, so moved in a hole. It gave the car a lot of mid corner steering. I use the standard 42 in back and dremeled and drilled out a Losi 41 pulley for up front for an overdrive set up-very subtle. Using copper and silver sway bars. Using Tamiya shocks 3-hole with 45w front, 40w rear, AE red springs and blue for back. Bitter's car has a custom made-one off - chassis by Lyman that has the batteries 5mm forward like the older RDX too and his runs the ultra thick lower and upper chassis. My car is long on the bulkheads, but shimmed as short as possible with only 1 toe in rear. I run the 2.4mm lower chassis and stock upper. Too thin and we've found the car twists and loads up like a rubber band, then unloads out of corners unpredictably. Front is 2mm narrower than back and kick up in front 3 caster blocks. Droop 6 on gauge in front and 5 in rear. We've been running 10.5 and mod and the diff gets burned up and gritty pretty quick, so looking in to some other options. Tony is running kick up too, but he uses the rectangle shims instead of turning the dot down on hingpin holders on front trailing like on mine, otherwise all other holders have dot up. We run at BCR, and the track is prepped and pretty dust free with decent traction, but diffs still get gritty pretty quick. In mod I'm rebuilding about every 2 runs. Since I work at the mag, we can get access to some things lying around and fortunately we happen to have a TA05 I'm going to grab the diff out of.
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:50 PM   #1971
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Sup Carl! I haven't seen you in ages... The last memory I have of you is the exploding battery 2 pits away form me! hahaha

-Korey
Korey,
Yeah that sucked. This last year I was watching a race at IIC and a battery blew up right about where my pit was located. I about crapped my pants thinking it may have been me again. After closer inspection the 2 guys pitting near to me blew a pack, so that was a big sigh of relief, at least since it wasn't all my pit stuff gone again. You guys going to Reedy Race? I'm in.
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Last edited by edseb; 04-23-2008 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:09 PM   #1972
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James, btw if you move the bearings inward on the holders in rear, aren't your cvd's too short?
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:20 PM   #1973
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James, btw if you move the bearings inward on the holders in rear, aren't your cvd's too short?
The slotted part of the diff halves on the TA05 diff (note: I used the aluminum TA05 diff halves, don't know if that's the case on the stock plastic ones) are quite a bit longer than the ones on the corally diff, I actually trimmed some off but it's not really necessary. Moving the bearings inward just takes up some of the slack so you only have to use 10mm worth of washers instead of 25
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Old 04-23-2008, 03:35 PM   #1974
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The slotted part of the diff halves on the TA05 diff (note: I used the aluminum TA05 diff halves, don't know if that's the case on the stock plastic ones) are quite a bit longer than the ones on the corally diff, I actually trimmed some off but it's not really necessary. Moving the bearings inward just takes up some of the slack so you only have to use 10mm worth of washers instead of 25
ah, ok. Looking online it seems that 3 racing makes a set too. More things to try.
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Old 04-25-2008, 03:41 PM   #1975
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I have a question for you guys. I've have been struggling to get my Phi to turn. Impresme was nice enough to provide me with his setup to try out and while I was making the changes last night, I noticed something. The steering throw is quite a bit less than my other cars. I had the same problem with my BD (wouldn't turn) because of steering throw. I changed the chubs and knuckles to HB parts and now it turns great. I compared the BD and 416 to the Phi and noticed the outside wheel has about 10 degrees less angle and the inside looks about 5 degrees. I'm just guessing those numbers from looking at it but whatever the number, it's very noticeable. I wanted to know what you guys thought about that? And also what some of you might have done to get more angle? That alone may solve my problem.
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Old 04-25-2008, 10:56 PM   #1976
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Hey Carl,

I think I met you at vegas last year? Anyway, about the tamiya diff in the phi, it depends on which size pulley/gear ratio/wheelbase you wanna run. If you want to run the stock 42T pulley you use the Corally pulley, diff balls, and diff rings(they drop right onto the tamiya diff halves). Everything else is from the tamiya diff. If you want to run the 36T pulley you can just use a straight TA05 diff, pullies and all and drop it right in. You just have to use the tamiya blades on the corally CVDs. Also they'll be a ton of side to side slop in the holders so with the bumps on the diff holders facing out, take the bearings and move them to the inside (flat) side of the diff holders. You'll still have to add a ton of shims to center the pulley and take out the play, but that gets you a lot closer.

Another thing that Bitter and Korey came up with is using the stock center pullies, and the 36T diff pullies, with the stock (169T, 507mm) front belt and a tamiya 415 rear belt, with the rear diff holder flipped to the ultra short wheelbase conversion. This will give you the ultra short wheelbase and a 1.71 internal ratio which is awesome for brushless. It also lets you move the center shaft and motor back a good bit to get the weight off the nose of the car. The belts are a little tight with this setup, so I have a hot bodies 170T, 510mm belt on order, and I think with a tensioner it should free up the drivetrain considerably.

Let me know if you have any questions or need any more info.

-James
I can't believe you guy's are doing so much crap to your cars. Just drive the damn thing.
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:58 AM   #1977
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I have a question for you guys. I've have been struggling to get my Phi to turn. Impresme was nice enough to provide me with his setup to try out and while I was making the changes last night, I noticed something. The steering throw is quite a bit less than my other cars. I had the same problem with my BD (wouldn't turn) because of steering throw. I changed the chubs and knuckles to HB parts and now it turns great. I compared the BD and 416 to the Phi and noticed the outside wheel has about 10 degrees less angle and the inside looks about 5 degrees. I'm just guessing those numbers from looking at it but whatever the number, it's very noticeable. I wanted to know what you guys thought about that? And also what some of you might have done to get more angle? That alone may solve my problem.
I have seen 1 guy do this.........I don't think it is necessary.

If your running a spool your just asking for trouble with bone chatter.
I would suggest spending your time finding a setup that doesn't require a lot of wheel angle to get around the track.

Too much wheel angle will give you a car that is hard to drive, kills the front tires and is off the pace.

If possible post your setup, track conditions, tires and the problem your having and i'll make sure we get your problem figured out.
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:22 PM   #1978
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This may sound a bit stupid, but how do you guys fit batteries in this car?!? Im getting ready for my first run with the car tomorrow, and my batteries do not fit, the top deck and bulkheads are too low. Can you not run shrinkwrap on the cells?
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:47 PM   #1979
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File the battery slots deeper into the car. This should fix your problem..
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Old 04-26-2008, 08:02 PM   #1980
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This may sound a bit stupid, but how do you guys fit batteries in this car?!? Im getting ready for my first run with the car tomorrow, and my batteries do not fit, the top deck and bulkheads are too low. Can you not run shrinkwrap on the cells?
I'd file the slots more. On my car you can fit shrink rap.
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