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Old 04-08-2008, 09:46 PM   #1936
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The standard belt/pulley configuration is the best for stock.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:51 PM   #1937
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Default Tamiya diff in a Phi

If anyone is interested, you can fit a Tamiya TA05 diff into the rear of the Phi. The one in the pics uses Corally pulley, diff balls, and diff rings. Everything else is out of the TA05 diff. You have to add a bunch of 10mm shims to take up the slack and get the pulley centered. It also helps to move the bearings to the inside of the bearing holders. If you run the 36T pulley you can use a tamiya diff straight out of the box and it will drop right in. In the limited testing i've done with it it works great and seems to stay smoother longer than the stock diff, especially on outdoor tracks.

-James
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:10 PM   #1938
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What you guys really want is the 416 diff. :-) The large diff ring design is the shiz! The newest Cyclone diffs are the same way.
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:19 PM   #1939
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Default Setup sheet ?

I have a question about the PHI setup sheets. What is a clamp shim and what are coupler shims? When listing on the sheet and someone posts that they run 2 R coupler shims, is that 2mm? What is the "Downstops" measurement in reference to? Thanks.
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:29 PM   #1940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I have a question about the PHI setup sheets. What is a clamp shim and what are coupler shims? When listing on the sheet and someone posts that they run 2 R coupler shims, is that 2mm? What is the "Downstops" measurement in reference to? Thanks.
Coupler shims are the ones that go between the couplers and clamps, which changes the rear toe/arm sweep. the 1,1.5,2... typically refers to the amount of toe that's put in, (thick shims =1, thin shims =.5).

Clamp shims go between the clamps and the chassis to change roll center, which is rarely used. 2R usually refers to the clamps that come stock in the rear, which comes stock with 2deg of toe.

Downstops is another word for droop. Typically it's either given in terms of a gauge (5AE or something), or in mm, which usually means the amount of uptravel over the ride height. So if the sheet says ride height is 5mm, and downstops is 2mm, the chassis will hit a max height of 7mm before the tires lift off the ground.
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:31 PM   #1941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
If anyone is interested, you can fit a Tamiya TA05 diff into the rear of the Phi. The one in the pics uses Corally pulley, diff balls, and diff rings. Everything else is out of the TA05 diff. You have to add a bunch of 10mm shims to take up the slack and get the pulley centered. It also helps to move the bearings to the inside of the bearing holders. If you run the 36T pulley you can use a tamiya diff straight out of the box and it will drop right in. In the limited testing i've done with it it works great and seems to stay smoother longer than the stock diff, especially on outdoor tracks.

-James
Great tip!
At the LRP Masters I saw team driver Simo Ahoniemi use a Tamiya diff in his car. I have run the standard diff outdoors with 3.5t and five cells without problems yet but Im eager to try a 416 diff. Where can I find a complete diff?
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:49 PM   #1942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Coupler shims are the ones that go between the couplers and clamps, which changes the rear toe/arm sweep. the 1,1.5,2... typically refers to the amount of toe that's put in, (thick shims =1, thin shims =.5).

Clamp shims go between the clamps and the chassis to change roll center, which is rarely used. 2R usually refers to the clamps that come stock in the rear, which comes stock with 2deg of toe.

Downstops is another word for droop. Typically it's either given in terms of a gauge (5AE or something), or in mm, which usually means the amount of uptravel over the ride height. So if the sheet says ride height is 5mm, and downstops is 2mm, the chassis will hit a max height of 7mm before the tires lift off the ground.
Thanks James for the info. I am thinking that 5AE is for a associated height gauge then and is not a 5mm measurement, correct? I'm also wondering what the reference to "Wishbone" is?
Also wondering where a good link is for a decent rubber tire on carpet setup, if any?
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Old 04-14-2008, 03:55 PM   #1943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Thanks James for the info. I am thinking that 5AE is for a associated height gauge then and is not a 5mm measurement, correct? I'm also wondering what the reference to "Wishbone" is?
Also wondering where a good link is for a decent rubber tire on carpet setup, if any?
5AE refers to the Associated droop gauge, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKT9&P=7

Wishbone refers to the suspension arm stiffness. Corally makes several different arm stiffnesses like 5, 35, 80, etc.

For an awesome rubber tire carpet setup, scroll back a few pages and find Josh H's Novak and club race setups. He's been killing everyone this year with those.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holmenkollen View Post
Great tip!
At the LRP Masters I saw team driver Simo Ahoniemi use a Tamiya diff in his car. I have run the standard diff outdoors with 3.5t and five cells without problems yet but Im eager to try a 416 diff. Where can I find a complete diff?
I don't know if they sell a complete diff in one package. I pieced mine together from parts I had in my box. I'll try to get the part numbers listed out tonight.
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Old 04-14-2008, 04:00 PM   #1944
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I was just commenting that the 416 diff would be nice, I don't have any idea if it fits or not. Someone would have to try it and figure it out, but I wouldn't buy one with the expectation that it would work. Sorry if I caused any confusion.
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Old 04-14-2008, 04:51 PM   #1945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
5AE refers to the Associated droop gauge, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCKT9&P=7

Wishbone refers to the suspension arm stiffness. Corally makes several different arm stiffnesses like 5, 35, 80, etc.

For an awesome rubber tire carpet setup, scroll back a few pages and find Josh H's Novak and club race setups. He's been killing everyone this year with those.



I don't know if they sell a complete diff in one package. I pieced mine together from parts I had in my box. I'll try to get the part numbers listed out tonight.
Thanks again James. DUH I knew about the arm stiffness, what a moe I am. Got the JH setups, I'll give them a try.

You can get a complete diff setup for the MSXMRE in aluminum, less the gear. Remember that the front and rear diffs are different offsets, so be specific when ordering. Personally the T diff still has problems with the load setting backing off, usually during modifed motor usage.
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:28 PM   #1946
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Yea... ta05 diff drops in. You can even use the corally blades if you use the aluminum outdrives. They aren't a perfect fit, but they work pretty good. I've been running it for the past week with good success.

-Korey
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:26 PM   #1947
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Old 04-15-2008, 12:54 PM   #1948
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Hey Korey.. So you have been using other diffs??


How are they ??

Getting ready for the reedy race now.. Since i can not run alot of outdoors (NO TRACKS ) I am looking for any info anyone has on stuff...


Thanks

Mike
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Old 04-15-2008, 01:16 PM   #1949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Yea... ta05 diff drops in. You can even use the corally blades if you use the aluminum outdrives. They aren't a perfect fit, but they work pretty good. I've been running it for the past week with good success.

-Korey
Korey, just a few questions, why go to the ta05 diff? Whats the advantage? Putting a diff in that requires you to drop a drive shaft to adjust doesn't seem like a better choice. That and the smaller thrust washer and screw that seem to have nothing but problems holding their adjustments, at least to me don't seem like logical alternatives to the stock Corally diff. Or another question, what is the down fall of the stock diff? Please explain, enquirying minds want to know. Thanks
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Old 04-15-2008, 08:07 PM   #1950
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I'm selling my Cyclones cause I can't stand the diffs in them, and have already ordered my Phi based in no small part on the fact that it won't be breaking diff screws! Please tell me I haven't made an expensive error in judgement. What is wrong with the standard diff?
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