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Old 02-26-2008, 06:03 PM   #1741
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I havent really had any problems with the bump steer. I honestly have really even noticed it. It's nothing like the old car, but I'm running foam tires, so the geometry is a little different and the suspension won't travel as much to actually SEE the bump steer.

Which way is it bumping? I'm not sure any of the other guys are really messing with bump steer. Maybe Jeff can hop on here and give some insight on this.

-Korey
Korey,
The new car bumps the toe inward as the car front suspension compresses. Bitter and Toso warned me of it. I called Toso and asked him and he said shim it on the steering below top deck, but didn't know the distance. He said on his car it was dropped quite a bit, actually near the belt, but didn't know the exact mm in length. I tried a couple, but if I knew the exact length it would save me a lot of trial and error.
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:04 PM   #1742
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Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy View Post
To reduce bump steer, you have to put shims under the steering knuckle ball studs. Use as many shims as required to make the steering links parallel or slightly below parallel (angled down to the outside) to the ground at ride height.
Hmm, maybe I'm going in the wrong direction. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:35 PM   #1743
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I think where you shim it depends on which direction it is bumping. The old car had a lot of bump out, and I think what brian suggested should fix that on the old car. What Toso is saying should help on the newer car as you are trying to reduce the amount of bump in, and effectively doing the opposite of what we used to do on the old car.

-Korey
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:11 PM   #1744
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ive been having problems with breaking front arms.i have 35s on now,are there any softer ones?
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:19 PM   #1745
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Corally also makes them in 5% too!
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:23 PM   #1746
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Since we switched to the 5 arms, we havent had an arm breakage problem.
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Old 02-26-2008, 08:40 PM   #1747
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Since we switched to the 5 arms, we havent had an arm breakage problem.
Ditto!
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Old 02-26-2008, 09:07 PM   #1748
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part # for the 5s? are the rears recomended or not necessary
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Old 02-26-2008, 09:13 PM   #1749
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part # for the 5s?
Just go to www.CorallyUSA.com for Racer Support/Phi parts list.

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Old 02-26-2008, 11:18 PM   #1750
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ive been having problems with breaking front arms.i have 35s on now,are there any softer ones?
They make 5s but not sure if that will solve your breaking issues. The difference from 35 to 5 should be minimum. Are you using the plastic lower bumper and thicker bumper. Helps to protect the arms. Also not running the aluminum knuckles will help but you will end up with more broken knuckles.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:33 PM   #1751
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The #5 arms are more than a little better than the #35 arms. They are a significant step against breakage on both carpet and asphalt.

The stock Phi bumper is nicely shaped but not hard enough to stop itself from hitting the front suspension in a heavy front/side impact. Get the Specialized hard foam bumper and the lower plastic bumper combo.

Incorporated with the above, aluminum knuckles rule.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:35 PM   #1752
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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
They make 5s but not sure if that will solve your breaking issues. The difference from 35 to 5 should be minimum. Are you using the plastic lower bumper and thicker bumper. Helps to protect the arms. Also not running the aluminum knuckles will help but you will end up with more broken knuckles.
Also remember... usually when you bust a plastic steering knuckle, it tweaks the cvd bone on the caster block giving it a prettyt nasty bend at times. I got sick of doing that and finally put aluminum steering blocks on.

-Korey
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Old 02-27-2008, 02:41 AM   #1753
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i have found that runningthe alloy steering knuckles a bonus. I have also fitted steel driveshafts to the front of the car...

would rather break a wishbone as its easier to replace quickly.

i run a spool so thats tends to be harsh on drive shafts as well.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:13 AM   #1754
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Also remember... usually when you bust a plastic steering knuckle, it tweaks the cvd bone on the caster block giving it a prettyt nasty bend at times. I got sick of doing that and finally put aluminum steering blocks on.

-Korey
Very true and I run them on carpet, but not a big fan of them on asphalt. Bitter and I tested them side by side with plastic and they do take away a hair of steering. Although very subtle. I run the car on asphalt with sloping candy cane curbs so breaks are much less since you roll over the corners instead of grabbing the tire toward the barrier. I guess it is just a matter of tradeoff. Also on asphalt i run a spool with metal blades with steel bones in the front, aluminum in back so the steel holds up better too.
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Old 02-27-2008, 11:53 AM   #1755
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
I think where you shim it depends on which direction it is bumping. The old car had a lot of bump out, and I think what brian suggested should fix that on the old car. What Toso is saying should help on the newer car as you are trying to reduce the amount of bump in, and effectively doing the opposite of what we used to do on the old car.

-Korey
I also have to take in to account my caster blocks and the fact that I run kick up in my asphalt car. These two combined will put the ball stud on the steering block even lower increasing bump. Guess its just some trial and error for me.
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