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Old 02-24-2008, 07:26 AM   #1726
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Hey guys, where can I get substitute 'trust bearing CONE WASHERS'?
I don't think Corally sells them separately. I have broken 3 of these washers already. And every time i have to buy the diff rebuild kit just for the cone washers.

So, where can i find replacement cone washers?

By the way, anyone having the same problem?

Thanks.
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:42 AM   #1727
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Originally Posted by 29TC View Post
So, where can i find replacement cone washers?

By the way, anyone having the same problem?

Thanks.
You're the first I've heard of to have that problem. Are you tightening the diff way too much and breaking them? I can't see any other way that would be happening.

As far as I know, you can only get the cone washers in the rebuild kit. Jeff Brown may know better, though.
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Old 02-25-2008, 04:15 AM   #1728
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Default Diff Modification

Hi all,

can anyone of u make some pcitures of the DiffModification with an 1/4" x 3/8" flanged bearing ???

Or please explain it step by step, it would be helpful and more easy to read it in one Post and not in 3-4 Posts.

Thanks,
Marcel
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Old 02-25-2008, 05:48 AM   #1729
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Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy View Post
You're the first I've heard of to have that problem. Are you tightening the diff way too much and breaking them? I can't see any other way that would be happening.

As far as I know, you can only get the cone washers in the rebuild kit. Jeff Brown may know better, though.
I figured I might have tighten it too much on my 1st two washers, but only the rear diff I am having this problem. Front diff is ok.

So, I looked at corally web and download the latest phi manual. Now the diffs do not use those cone washers! Is the manual correct? Can I do without that cone washer??

Guys with the lastest PHI, is the diff using cone washers between the M7 nut and trust bearing?
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Old 02-25-2008, 06:31 AM   #1730
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You will still need the cone washer. The original manual forgot it, and it seems the one on the website still hasn't been upgraded.

The flanged bearing diff mod:

Take one of the unflanged bearings out that goes on the long shaft. Instead of the thrust bearing stack, take the flanged bearing and put it where that was facing down into the short diff shaft. Then on top of the bearing you need a couple of shims (the ones that would shim a 12th associated axle part#4554) then the cone washer and finally the diff nut.
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Old 02-25-2008, 06:36 AM   #1731
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Originally Posted by BlueSilver View Post
Hi all,

can anyone of u make some pcitures of the DiffModification with an 1/4" x 3/8" flanged bearing ???

Or please explain it step by step, it would be helpful and more easy to read it in one Post and not in 3-4 Posts.

Thanks,
Marcel
Its very simple.

when rebuilding the diff.

do not put the thrust washers,Thrust cage, and the bearing that goes on the "diff ring" side of the diff half bearing back in, substitute them with the diff spacer (part #COR75926) and a 1/4"x3/8" flanged bearing.

inside the thrust side diff half. Put the Flanged bearing in the place of the "normal" bearing you discarded earlier.

Then place the Diff spacer on top of that Beveled side towards the bearing

Next place the cone washer on top of that (Just as the instructions show)

Then on top of that put the diff adjustment nut.

Build the diff as normal from there.


Hope this is easy to understand..it easier to do then to type it out..LOL
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Old 02-25-2008, 08:04 AM   #1732
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You will still need the cone washer. The original manual forgot it, and it seems the one on the website still hasn't been upgraded.
On the manual included in my Phi, there is a part number 75924 for the cone washer. After some searching I found this :-
https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...ns&pn=COR75924

Is the SPX12 diff nut similar to the phi M7 nut? And do you think that "grooved" cone washer will work? Its cheaper than buying a phi diff rebuild kit.
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Old 02-25-2008, 01:53 PM   #1733
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Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
Where do you guys pack on all the weight to run lipo?

I needed 160 grams on the battery side just to balance the car.
If you run Flat bottomed Lipo (no humps)

fill in the battery slots with lead. Place the chassis on a flat heatproof surface. Melt and pour the lead into the slots. trim flat to surface

I got 96 grams in there. only 64 to go.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:12 AM   #1734
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Been having trouble totally eliminating the bump steer on the steering. I've tried some washers under the steering below deck, but with 2mm shimmed and some other ones I still get it, if anyone can save me a lot of troubleshooting it would be great. I've heard it is significantly more?
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:10 PM   #1735
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:26 PM   #1736
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:26 PM   #1737
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Originally Posted by edseb View Post
Been having trouble totally eliminating the bump steer on the steering. I've tried some washers under the steering below deck, but with 2mm shimmed and some other ones I still get it, if anyone can save me a lot of troubleshooting it would be great. I've heard it is significantly more?
To reduce bump steer, you have to put shims under the steering knuckle ball studs. Use as many shims as required to make the steering links parallel or slightly below parallel (angled down to the outside) to the ground at ride height.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:27 PM   #1738
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I havent really had any problems with the bump steer. I honestly have really even noticed it. It's nothing like the old car, but I'm running foam tires, so the geometry is a little different and the suspension won't travel as much to actually SEE the bump steer.

Which way is it bumping? I'm not sure any of the other guys are really messing with bump steer. Maybe Jeff can hop on here and give some insight on this.

-Korey
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:32 PM   #1739
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I had a problem with bump steer this past weekend. I bumped the car in front of me and steered right into the da#$ wall.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:38 PM   #1740
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Ha... dont you hate that kind of "bump" steer?
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