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Old 02-03-2008, 02:27 PM   #1651
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Default Killing Rear Coupler Clamps

Hey, I have been doing in my rear Coupler Clamps (2.0 mm toe-in) over the past month.

Per the attached picture, all three left side units have bent at the rear offset mounting hole. As far as I can tell, the clamp is really weak at that location.

Is anyone using the 0mm Coupler Clamps with 2 degree hubs to eliminate this annoying problem?
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Team Corally RDX Phi-phi-coupler-clamps.jpg  
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Old 02-03-2008, 03:50 PM   #1652
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I went through a set too. Same weak spot.
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:23 PM   #1653
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its just an weak part and eveyone well bent them if u hit on eather side
also u may want to check the pin also, they well bent too
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Old 02-03-2008, 06:53 PM   #1654
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Applying "IN BOARD TOE" opposed to "OUT- BOARD TOE" makes handling different in setup... but i cant answer as to what the difference is....
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Old 02-03-2008, 07:06 PM   #1655
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Originally Posted by RCFREAK View Post
Applying "IN BOARD TOE" opposed to "OUT- BOARD TOE" makes handling different in setup... but i cant answer as to what the difference is....
Toe-in will give some straight line stability; and, can scrub some top speed. Toe-out will give quicker initial turn-in; and, can be unstable on straights.

All the setups (carpet and asphalt) I use on my Phi cars start with zero toe. But, I might use a minor amount of toe-out on a really tight track to get that initial turn-in.

FYI...I only run rubber tires these days; but, the same applied to foam setups.
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Old 02-03-2008, 08:20 PM   #1656
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Since we're talking about the rear blocks, I believe that he's talking about the difference between inboard toe-in (where the arm is angled forward) and outboard toe-in (where the arm is pointed straight out) and the toe is gained from using optional blocks. The outboard toe-in allows the suspension to operate a little freer because the inner hinge pin does not have a sweeping load put on it. You also have to make sure that you check your track length when making the change from inboard toe to outboard toe.
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:19 AM   #1657
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thats what i meant Tony.
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:50 AM   #1658
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it looks like the 2 degree couplers the holes are drilled off center, the 0 degree look to be center, either way there isn't much edge distance, guess it matches the chassis screws edge

i think i'll just be buying 0 degrees and shimming out the roll block
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:17 AM   #1659
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Todd Hodge's explanation of inboard vs. outboard toe-in:
Inboard toe-in will give your car more support in the rear. This will give you a car that drives flatter over the rear and will transfer more weight to the front of the car during off-power transition. With outboard toe-in, you will have less support in the rear which will result in less overall rear traction. The car will also hold more of a set over the rear of the car and less initial steering in off-power transition.
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:31 AM   #1660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Korey Harbke View Post
Yeah I know... I seem to remember being "gently moved out of the way" by him in the 1/12 b main at vegas in 06. Somehow my car ended up off the track LOL. I found it pretty funny.

-Korey
LOL, ummmm, yea..... I probably did that, but I was kinda hung over that morning so I don't really remember that main and the cheesehead was obscuring my vision, yea... that's the excuse i'll go with.....

The Phi ran pretty well in it's first outing. It seems like the steering throw won't be an issue if I can get the car to rotate a little better. Right now i'm running Rob's setup from Vegas with RP30's, 24lb front springs, a regular Mazda 6 (not speed 6), and no swaybars. The droop is set at 5,5 on the AE gauge, which seemed fine with the jaco tires, but when I went to RPs for the main I didn't reset the droop to account for the smaller tires. I may try dremeling down a set of plastic steering blocks to see if the extra throw helps, but I think it's just a bandaid for a setup that's not quite there.

I'm going to try the Speed 6 body and adding some more droop, any other suggestions on what I should try?
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Old 02-04-2008, 11:41 AM   #1661
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Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
LOL, ummmm, yea..... I probably did that, but I was kinda hung over that morning so I don't really remember that main and the cheesehead was obscuring my vision, yea... that's the excuse i'll go with.....

The Phi ran pretty well in it's first outing. It seems like the steering throw won't be an issue if I can get the car to rotate a little better. Right now i'm running Rob's setup from Vegas with RP30's, 24lb front springs, a regular Mazda 6 (not speed 6), and no swaybars. The droop is set at 5,5 on the AE gauge, which seemed fine with the jaco tires, but when I went to RPs for the main I didn't reset the droop to account for the smaller tires. I may try dremeling down a set of plastic steering blocks to see if the extra throw helps, but I think it's just a bandaid for a setup that's not quite there.

I'm going to try the Speed 6 body and adding some more droop, any other suggestions on what I should try?
ALLL the bmains were like that. Thats why it was hilarious haha.

Anyway... there are those new steering blocks that will be released here soon that are narrower in the front. Talking with Jeff he said that Blackstock ran those at Reedy, and so did Jeff. Basically those give crazy steering I guess.

You can try narrowing up the car entirely by trying narrower hex adapters... Thats usually always helped on rubber tires for me. Also... maybe even try a piston with a little bigger hole like the 1.3mm pistons. That will transfer weight around more... should get the car on the front end a little more.

You can also move the rear camber link further out on the rear hub... or just raise to the upper row on the shock tower... that should get the car to free up a touch too.

Hope that helps dude!

-Korey
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Old 02-04-2008, 02:02 PM   #1662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
The Phi ran pretty well in it's first outing. It seems like the steering throw won't be an issue if I can get the car to rotate a little better. Right now i'm running Rob's setup from Vegas with RP30's, 24lb front springs, a regular Mazda 6 (not speed 6), and no swaybars. The droop is set at 5,5 on the AE gauge, which seemed fine with the jaco tires, but when I went to RPs for the main I didn't reset the droop to account for the smaller tires. I may try dremeling down a set of plastic steering blocks to see if the extra throw helps, but I think it's just a bandaid for a setup that's not quite there.

I'm going to try the Speed 6 body and adding some more droop, any other suggestions on what I should try?



James...............Try the low roll center in the front, 19lb spring in the outer hole on arm and go up and short with your camber links on the tower. I'm also not a fan of the short wheel base in the front.
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Old 02-04-2008, 04:13 PM   #1663
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Thanks for the tips Josh and Korey, i'll be sure to try all of those out.

Josh-is your novak setup posted anywhere?

Is anyone countersinking the stock (thin) chassis to get rid of the screw heads hanging below the chassis? It's kind of annoying because you can't use a flat board to untweek the chassis/upper deck and you have to run the car a bit higher so the tech bar clears the screw heads.
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Old 02-04-2008, 04:17 PM   #1664
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James,

Jeff Brown has my novak setup and my club race setup. He should be posting them soon........................right Jeff.


If I get a chance I will scan them and post them here.
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Old 02-04-2008, 04:28 PM   #1665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesArluck View Post
Thanks for the tips Josh and Korey, i'll be sure to try all of those out.

Josh-is your novak setup posted anywhere?

Is anyone countersinking the stock (thin) chassis to get rid of the screw heads hanging below the chassis? It's kind of annoying because you can't use a flat board to untweek the chassis/upper deck and you have to run the car a bit higher so the tech bar clears the screw heads.
I assume you mean the 2.4 mm chassis.. If so I did that as soon as the box arrived. Did the same for my roommate
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