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Old 01-18-2008, 10:02 PM   #1576
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Is this the reason I havent heard from you in a while Starling??

You never call me anymore man...I'm hurt

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Here my phi
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:26 PM   #1577
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do they still sell the old nut or do you have to replace the output shaf and nut?
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Old 01-18-2008, 11:47 PM   #1578
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Originally Posted by eddie10 View Post
do they still sell the old nut or do you have to replace the output shaf and nut?
Yessir - I believe so. It's not a mandatory upgrade to go to the new diff. The old nut is 79694, and the new nut is 79694A.

I know we still stock them both - but I haven't had a chance to post the A version up on our site yet. I would imagine it's the same for most dealers, because the old diff has been around for quite a while, so there's a lot of them out there!
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:40 PM   #1579
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has anyone found a better option for the thrust bearing washers? I know that people have talked about replacing it with a standard bearing but I'm not too sure about the side loads on it.
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:44 PM   #1580
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has anyone found a better option for the thrust bearing washers? I know that people have talked about replacing it with a standard bearing but I'm not too sure about the side loads on it.
I've been running like this for a while now with the flanged bearing in lieu of the typical thrust bearing, if that's what you are talking about... Just use a steel bearing and not a ceramic...
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Old 01-20-2008, 08:52 PM   #1581
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Are you using the flanged bearing where the thrust bearing would normally go? How does this affect the tension on the diff?
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:46 AM   #1582
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Yes, taking out the old thrust bearing, and one of the unflanged bearings... You then put the flanged bearing into the outdrive, put the 12x red thrust washer in, a cone washer on top, and then the diff nut... I haven't had any diff issues for a while now, still very smooth.
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:15 AM   #1583
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Originally Posted by brians11 View Post
Yes, taking out the old thrust bearing, and one of the unflanged bearings... You then put the flanged bearing into the outdrive, put the 12x red thrust washer in, a cone washer on top, and then the diff nut... I haven't had any diff issues for a while now, still very smooth.
I had 2 flanged 1/4" axle bearings for my 12th scale. I used some axle shims (x2) and the bellville washer (I.D. facing the axle shims) This works like a charm. I am sure that you could also have used one of the thrust washers between the nut and axle shims... ymmv.

I am just trying to figure out if it's that the steel rings are too thin on the original thrust bearings, or if the tiny balls are just taking too much load. Last time I sprayed off the thrust assembly, I found flakes of metal in the cloth, almost like the thrust washers were plated, and it was the plating that was wearing off.
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:18 AM   #1584
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Replacing the stock thrust and using a 1/4" x 3/8" flanged (insert from the outside through the slot) works perfectly. I ran it for the first time Saturday and the diffs held up great and are still glass smooth.
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:02 AM   #1585
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Originally Posted by Tornado_Racing View Post
Replacing the stock thrust and using a 1/4" x 3/8" flanged (insert from the outside through the slot) works perfectly. I ran it for the first time Saturday and the diffs held up great and are still glass smooth.
Same here!!!! Ran it all weekend know problems and as smooth as silk.
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Old 01-21-2008, 09:10 AM   #1586
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Ok, stop yelling! I'll try it out. Jeesh Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try today.
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:46 AM   #1587
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OK lets go over this one more timeyou remove the trust race plus the two thust washers and the cone washer and one of the bearing you then put a flanged bearing in the hole where the trust race used to be and use a cone washer as normal is this corect. the reason for this is because?
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:49 AM   #1588
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Originally Posted by stuey View Post
OK lets go over this one more timeyou remove the trust race plus the two thust washers and the cone washer and one of the bearing you then put a flanged bearing in the hole where the trust race used to be and use a cone washer as normal is this corect. the reason for this is because?
Because you want the smaller diameter of the thrust cone to ride the I.D. of the 1/4" axle bearing, and have enough surface area for the nut to push against.
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Old 01-21-2008, 12:01 PM   #1589
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so does this improve the performance of the diff does this stop it from undoing.
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Old 01-21-2008, 12:36 PM   #1590
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Originally Posted by stuey View Post
so does this improve the performance of the diff does this stop it from undoing.
It seems as though the diffs got really notchy with the stock thrust bearing. I don't think that this work-around is a better engineered design, as radial bearings aren't meant to take thrust loads, however, RC racing has been testing the endurance of thrust loading these bearings in 12th scale axles for years with very few problems. Having a thrust exposed like it is in the Phi allows for all the crap picked up from the track and thrown around inside the body shell with that much more chance that the crap will wind up in the inner workings of your chassis.

Yes, it works better from the standpoint that your diffs will actually perform the way that they should.
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