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Old 01-14-2008, 06:42 AM   #1546
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Dave the PHI thrust beraing are.....

washers.

6.3mmx10.20mm x.5mm...ish.

or .250x.420x

we are looking for the washers.....

it's not a problem with the thrust bearings/carbide or cage. it's just that we need new washers. the others when running mod just get scared up real quick
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Old 01-14-2008, 07:18 AM   #1547
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Will the RDX diffs work in the PHI? I keep having trouble with the diff slipping and hard to get it tight. when I get it tight its not smooth.
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Old 01-14-2008, 07:25 AM   #1548
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yes they do fit...... many of us are running the old diff's....

On the new diff's we have been having better luck using a drop of CA glue to lock the diff nut and keep it from backing off. but the thrust bearing just go to S#@t and get all scared up. Then they are just crunchy and feel like hell. (at least running mod they do... I would think stock and or 19T is not as bad......
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Old 01-14-2008, 09:42 AM   #1549
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Thanks guys, I will round me up a couple old diffs!!!!
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:19 PM   #1550
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would you say the old diffs are smoother because the thrust is more sealed compared to wide open in the phi
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:29 PM   #1551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eddie10 View Post
would you say the old diffs are smoother because the thrust is more sealed compared to wide open in the phi
I've put mini condoms over the thrust bearing, all to no avail. Crunchy diffs in no time flat. Until I hit a regime of changing the diff rings more regularly and braking the new rings in by running the car on a stand and holding one wheel at a time and spinning the motor, starting with a loose diff and very slowly tightening the diff nut half a flat at a time. When I take the time to do this, the diffs last 3 times as long before rebuilding again.

Now I like my diffs and don't have those catastrophic collapses any more.

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Old 01-15-2008, 04:33 PM   #1552
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when running the rdx diffs are you to use the 3.5mm balls or the 3/32 phi balls.i plan on running the 36t phi pulley
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Old 01-15-2008, 04:58 PM   #1553
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I have an idea on the thrust.

What if you were to replace the stock thrust plates, cage, and balls with a 1/4" x 3/8" flanged bearing and then flip the thrust cone washer so the diff builds like a 1/12th scale or pan car diff?

The flange on the bearing should catch on the diff halve and flipping the thrust cone (or use an 1/8" axle shim) so the smaller ID runs on the inner race of the bearing. Apply some thread lock to the nut and set the diff.

Think this would work?
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:05 PM   #1554
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Originally Posted by tcian View Post
ok first u take the trust assembly out and rebuild the diff rings,balls,etc, next instead of putting the trust rings and balls in and the berring at the bottom, 1/4 x 3/8 flanged same as a 1/12 rear bearing in the bottom instead of the stock one, then u take 1/12 rear axel shims and spce it out like 2 or 3 of the shims put it in and break it in and ull be good, i like the feel of it but we run it in brushless, i did a test with it with a co27 it did bring me down like a tenth or so but not much if u have anyother q'
s feel free to ask
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I have an idea on the thrust.

What if you were to replace the stock thrust plates, cage, and balls with a 1/4" x 3/8" flanged bearing and then flip the thrust cone washer so the diff builds like a 1/12th scale or pan car diff?

The flange on the bearing should catch on the diff halve and flipping the thrust cone (or use an 1/8" axle shim) so the smaller ID runs on the inner race of the bearing. Apply some thread lock to the nut and set the diff.

Think this would work?

That's basically what Ian suggested too.. This is how I've been running the diffs since after Vegas, no rebuilds, still super smooth. Only difference is I used the red thrust washer from the 12x in lieu of any other spacers, then used a cone washer on top of that. I haven't had any problem with the nut backing off. Could the nut be backing off from the thrust bearing getting gritty and not rotating freely?
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:25 PM   #1555
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Quote:
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That's basically what Ian suggested too.. This is how I've been running the diffs since after Vegas, no rebuilds, still super smooth. Only difference is I used the red thrust washer from the 12x in lieu of any other spacers, then used a cone washer on top of that. I haven't had any problem with the nut backing off. Could the nut be backing off from the thrust bearing getting gritty and not rotating freely?
So you remove one of the non-flanged bearings and use a flanged, inserted the same way as a pan car. Then put a thrust spacer and nut. Basically the same way as a pan car or 1/12th scale thrust assembly.
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Old 01-15-2008, 06:11 PM   #1556
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So you remove one of the non-flanged bearings and use a flanged, inserted the same way as a pan car. Then put a thrust spacer and nut. Basically the same way as a pan car or 1/12th scale thrust assembly.
Yes sir, and for what it's worth, I'm using the kit diff balls, and a standard metal flanged bearing, NOT ceramics...
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:26 PM   #1557
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What I'm trying is to use a flanged bearing three 0.020 pancar axel spacers and the nut. It builds just like my oval car.
Tony I have a picture that you took of your self last year at the birds I'll send it to you and see if you remember it!!!!
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:18 PM   #1558
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What I'm trying is to use a flanged bearing three 0.020 pancar axel spacers and the nut. It builds just like my oval car.
Tony I have a picture that you took of your self last year at the birds I'll send it to you and see if you remember it!!!!
One thing I'd worry about from using shims is the chance that a shim could get into the threads and not let the diff work right, but that could just be me being conservative...
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:35 PM   #1559
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Good point!!!! I'm going to test it this weekend before the Birds. I will keep a eye on it and post the results Monday.
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:55 PM   #1560
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I found this spacer on the bmi site. What do you think about using it and not the 0.020 spacers?
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