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Old 11-28-2006, 11:32 AM   #1
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Default Battery Assembly - Battery Bars.. Choice...??

Just wondering what everyones preference is in Battery Bars.. I know to some its whats on sale, or they dont care, but I'm sure some of you out there prefer silver over copper etc... So let me know what you prefer and why, company, materila etc... Interested to know

FYI - I have about 5 new packs to build this week, all new IB4200WC's incase anyone is wondering...

Thanks for looking.....
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Old 11-28-2006, 11:43 AM   #2
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Stepped (so they don't damage the shrink) and silver plated (so they don't tarnish), I'm not much bothered about anything else, although I've used the Much-More bars on most of my recent packs simply because they were to hand.
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Old 11-28-2006, 11:45 AM   #3
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Oh boy... someone gonna get hurt real bad!!!

Clint, use the Much-more bars - they seem to work well and have a lower profile then some of the other ones on the market. I have had great success with those and the SMC (Intellect) bars on my new packs. The trick in a solid connection is in the soldering.

DO NOT TIN THE BARS OR THE BATTERY!!!! If you're gonna be at the track tomorrow, I'll explain further.
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Old 11-28-2006, 12:51 PM   #4
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The Muchmore bars are a very nice choice; low profile, different finishes (material), and pre-bent L bars for direct wiring.

Deans bars are always a great choice, and most LHS will have them in stock.

I do not think SMC is making bars anymore, but not 100% sure.
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Old 11-28-2006, 01:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. Rhodes

I do not think SMC is making bars anymore, but not 100% sure.
They are using Intellect bars now.
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Old 11-28-2006, 01:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. Rhodes
The Muchmore bars are a very nice choice; low profile, different finishes (material), and pre-bent L bars for direct wiring.

Deans bars are always a great choice, and most LHS will have them in stock.

I do not think SMC is making bars anymore, but not 100% sure.
+1
I have yet to bend a Much More battery bar, and that's without using any CA or shoe-goo as well. The L-bars are very trick as well.
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman996
Oh boy... someone gonna get hurt real bad!!!

Clint, use the Much-more bars - they seem to work well and have a lower profile then some of the other ones on the market. I have had great success with those and the SMC (Intellect) bars on my new packs. The trick in a solid connection is in the soldering.

DO NOT TIN THE BARS OR THE BATTERY!!!! If you're gonna be at the track tomorrow, I'll explain further.
Do you think you could explain to the rest of us why we shouldn't tin the bars or battery?

Just on a side note; what ever happened to battery braid? I thought stranded conductors are suppose to be more efficient in conducting current than a sold conductor.
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Old 11-28-2006, 04:13 PM   #8
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Default LOL

First off.... I have to laugh because I have been in and out of RC for 20 years now, and I also thought to myself this afternoon when I posted about Battery Bar options... why we dont use Braid anymore..... soooo cheap. I remember about 13 years ago I had the new 1400 matched packs I ordered from worldclass batteries a the time, and i got a roll of braid for 8 bucks... LOL Mind you the packs were very flimsy..

I'm guessing tinning might be bad for the new IB4200's, from what I heard it could cause venting because of the heat... my guess.. I will find out when he lets me know on wednesday.....

So far the concensus is MuchMore battery bars in Silver and the L's to hardwire.. sounds like a plan.....
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Old 11-28-2006, 05:38 PM   #9
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The reason that you don't tin either is that solder is makes a really poor conductor of electricity. The lead component does not pass electrical currrent through it well. Rather, the most correct way to put a pack together is:

- rough-up the contact patches with some sandpaper... don't go crazy here, just sand the area where the battery bar will be touching the battery.
- Use a higher-end battery jig to hold the pack together. The best one I have ever used is the Deans battery jig. For a photo, click HERE
- With a stong soldering iron (80 Watt or about works well) in one hand, place the battery bars on the battery and while pressing the iron against the battery bar, feed the solder slowly onto the bar. Less is more in this case as the solder is only meant to hold the battery bars onto the pack. As soon as you see the solder has liquified and started to join the bar and battery cell together, remove the iron and keep pressure on the joint with some pliers. Let the joint cool (solder harden) and move to the next joint.
- Key points - the iron should not ever directly contact the cell - only the bars... and should be on that location for as little as possible so not to heat-up the cells. If you are having difficulty getting the solder to melt in a short period (i.e. 1-2 seconds), get a better iron.

The whole purpose of this method is to have the battery bars and battery lead make contact without any solder between the joint - only around the joint to hold the two together.

Tom from SPC does some of the nicest soldering jobs on pre-assembled packs that I have ever seen....

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Old 11-28-2006, 06:39 PM   #10
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Wow... very nice!!


I wish I had a deans jig - I have a no-name branded jig that isn't big enough for the newer gen batteries. NOt cool!

Just look at those solder joints though. So neat.
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Old 11-28-2006, 06:58 PM   #11
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since we are on the topic of batteries i was looking a team hurricane's and they had a satchel of batteries for 94 dollars and my question is how many batteries is in a satchel
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:27 PM   #12
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yokomo has new batt jig

deans jig hasnt been produced for a while now
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Old 11-28-2006, 07:39 PM   #13
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Jig-Deans Battery Jig. Another great R/C innovation! Gotta dig the battery bar holder

Iron-Higher end 40 watt (Hakko) or a 60-80 watter (80watt is over kill in my opinion) i like the 3/8inch chisel tips

Battery Bars-I luv the Novak Silver cross bars. Team Twik gives you 7 Novak Silver Cross Battery bars and 6 pieces of shrink wrap with every battery purchase! Who else does that!

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Old 12-01-2006, 06:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattster
since we are on the topic of batteries i was looking a team hurricane's and they had a satchel of batteries for 94 dollars and my question is how many batteries is in a satchel
I believe the regular satchel of cells ($94) comes with 18 cells. The $79 one comes with 12 but with better numbers.
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Old 12-02-2006, 05:33 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman996
The reason that you don't tin either is that solder is makes a really poor conductor of electricity. The lead component does not pass electrical currrent through it well. Rather, the most correct way to put a pack together is:

- rough-up the contact patches with some sandpaper... don't go crazy here, just sand the area where the battery bar will be touching the battery.
- Use a higher-end battery jig to hold the pack together. The best one I have ever used is the Deans battery jig. For a photo, click HERE
- With a stong soldering iron (80 Watt or about works well) in one hand, place the battery bars on the battery and while pressing the iron against the battery bar, feed the solder slowly onto the bar. Less is more in this case as the solder is only meant to hold the battery bars onto the pack. As soon as you see the solder has liquified and started to join the bar and battery cell together, remove the iron and keep pressure on the joint with some pliers. Let the joint cool (solder harden) and move to the next joint.
- Key points - the iron should not ever directly contact the cell - only the bars... and should be on that location for as little as possible so not to heat-up the cells. If you are having difficulty getting the solder to melt in a short period (i.e. 1-2 seconds), get a better iron.

The whole purpose of this method is to have the battery bars and battery lead make contact without any solder between the joint - only around the joint to hold the two together.

Tom from SPC does some of the nicest soldering jobs on pre-assembled packs that I have ever seen....
I disagree with you there. You should use as much solder as it needs to get a strong solid joint. And it should be between the joint and fill it up. Solder is bad conductor but it's immeasurably better conductor than nothing. You should pre solder the cell with quality rosin core solder and then push the bar against the cell as you heat the bar with good powerful soldering iron. The solder should be shiny when you've soldered it, if it isn't shiny you've overheated the solder resulting in higher resistance and weaker soldering job.

Stuff to keep in mind is:
Some solder is better than other, the one I recommend for beginners is 60/40 rosin core. Immediately throw away (you should recycle it, it contains lead) the solder that came with the cheap soldering iron.
Lot of soldering irons are not as powerful as they're rated, especially the cheap ones.
Never use soldering guns.
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