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Old 03-28-2003, 05:09 AM   #61
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I found out my dad has got some thing called Molly Bond Dry Spray. He says its very similar to Graphite Spray adn it comes in a spray can and smells and is smooth when it drys.

My question is where exactly are all the points you spray this stuff? I would think that it would work well on the internals and i would like to try this. I am fairly happy with my car, although it only spins for like 2 seconds without load, i can give it a slight push and it will roll for ages
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:23 AM   #62
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Default friction

Its all about the details. Assemble one component of the drivetrain at a time and check for friction. When you have one free then go on to the next. I also use an ultrsonic jewelery cleaner and denatured alchohl to clean my bearings. Yiu can get one for about $20 at wal-mart. I also take the inside seals out of the bearings. This is the biggest factor in fighting friction. Haven't burned one yet. I don't oil the bearings because it just attracts dirt.
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:25 AM   #63
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Default moly spray

Dont use it on bearings! I tried.
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Old 03-29-2003, 12:59 PM   #64
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Default Molly Bond Dry Spray

DO NOT use this on Bearings. Probably too messy for anything on an R/C Car.
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Old 03-29-2003, 05:12 PM   #65
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Okay, is that the same for the proper graphite spray too. Also when you take the sheilds off the bearings, do they get gritty very easily, or is there something you can do to stop this?
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:35 PM   #66
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Default I was told by a friend of mine....

who is also a hobby store manager, that a guy at the nats said had a set of Trinity ceramic bearings for his XXX-S. My friend said when he rolled the wheels it was nearly as good as a wore in TC3. I guess they run about a $160 for a full set, but it was one of the last unknown secretes. I looked all over for them and I can't find them on any web site. He said Trinity was the one releasing them. Anyone know know about them?
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Old 03-30-2003, 12:59 AM   #67
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acer also makes ceramic bearings and they are cheaper than the trinity ones. they run 110 for a set.
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Old 03-30-2003, 01:18 AM   #68
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Default Re: I was told by a friend of mine....

Quote:
Originally posted by Nightbreed
who is also a hobby store manager, that a guy at the nats said had a set of Trinity ceramic bearings for his XXX-S. My friend said when he rolled the wheels it was nearly as good as a wore in TC3. I guess they run about a $160 for a full set, but it was one of the last unknown secretes. I looked all over for them and I can't find them on any web site. He said Trinity was the one releasing them. Anyone know know about them?
I saw a set at my LHS. Don't remember the price or part number. I'll check for you next time I'm there.
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Old 03-30-2003, 08:19 AM   #69
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Default Re: friction

Quote:
Originally posted by ghoulardi
Its all about the details. Assemble one component of the drivetrain at a time and check for friction. When you have one free then go on to the next. I also use an ultrsonic jewelery cleaner and denatured alchohl to clean my bearings. Yiu can get one for about $20 at wal-mart. I also take the inside seals out of the bearings. This is the biggest factor in fighting friction. Haven't burned one yet. I don't oil the bearings because it just attracts dirt.
I used an ultrasonic cleaner for bearings when I raced off-road, I have a pretty nice one too, and they work very well. I was using a micture of simple green when I was doing it, then cleaning out the simple green with denatured alcohol.

Josh
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Old 03-31-2003, 10:11 AM   #70
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Thumbs up bearing seals

I only take the inner seals off of the bearings that might be exposed to dirt. T I do take all of the seals out of the others. I clean them between run at the track with motor spray. I run parking lot and haven't lost one yet.
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Old 04-10-2003, 08:41 PM   #71
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Old 04-10-2003, 09:05 PM   #72
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how do you all prep the drivetrain to freewheel longer?

say for example, Evo III and a TC3.

besides re-lubing the bearings. do you have to shave, shim, or cut the gearbox to achieve a longer wheel spin?

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-11-2003, 01:47 AM   #73
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Would it work if you replaced the flywheel in a Fantom dyno with some type of drum dyno that the car could be straped to? That way you could actually see spool up time and current draw, and compare how belt drive matches up against shaft drive.
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Old 04-11-2003, 03:06 AM   #74
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try Acer Racing ceramic bearings... they are much cheaper than Boca and trinity..

They work excellent too... after using them for quite some times, I tool it out last monday to see if it fels gritty like the normal metal seals does.. wow... the acer's are superb.... does not feel gritty at all and they remain smooth.... plus... your car will roll further after off throtle..
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Old 04-11-2003, 08:41 AM   #75
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Default drive train

Yes it takes a lot of work to get the drive train free. I found the biggest imprvement when I took the seals out of the big diff bearings. You still have to fiddle with the cases to get them really free. I shaved a little off the inside of each bearing surface of both cases. I also cut a pair of gaskets out of header card paper and put them between the cases. BIG IMPROVEMENT!
As far as how long it will spin, you dont want to confuse friction with inertia. Generally, on a road course you don't want any flywheel effect and on some ovals you do.
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