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Old 02-21-2003, 07:11 AM   #46
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Default Popsracer, do you know what company...

makes it? Or where I could get some?

Also there are different grades of Titanum. I would imagine there is some as hard as steel. Most likey its very exspensive or only available to the military. I'm not interested in Ta racing Ti cvds, if I bend one I'm screwed. I would like to see MIP make a high grade Ti axle. I would pay much more if it was as hard as the steel ones.
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Old 02-21-2003, 08:08 AM   #47
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nightbreed, you can go to just about any industrial supply or big box hardware store and find anti-sieze spray.

we use a product made by Camie-Campbell called Camie 2000. it is a ptfe based product that forms a dry film on the surface with very good frictional characteristics. One thing to know is that this and any of the dry film type products need to be applied to each surface separately, not while the pieces are assembled as the film crosslinks as it drys and will try to glue parts together. this is a good thing as it forms a relatively permanent surface that stays put. Also, when using it on close fitting parts, you have to take into account that the film does take up space and could make for a tight fit if too much is used.

btw, the product we use is primarily used as a release agent in injection molding.
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Old 02-21-2003, 10:15 AM   #48
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Default Nightbreed; Who makes it? Or where I could get some

Try an Industrial supply company like McMaster Carr
The stuff I'm talking about is Graphite based, sprays on like paint then dries leaving a slippery film. Home Depot also sells a clear Dry spray film (the name eludes me right now). Makes a noticeable difference on gears and suspension parts, is completely dry and leaves no visible residue.

Last edited by popsracer; 02-21-2003 at 10:24 AM.
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Old 02-22-2003, 02:23 AM   #49
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Default Has anyone tried...

it on their TC3 gears with any good results? I am interested in the graphite spray. I'll have to look around I guess.
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Old 02-22-2003, 02:40 AM   #50
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It's been done by stuff like bike gear lubricants (they are anal retentive about drivetrains like us) and industrial stuff has got to be better, so it can be done with a variety of similar products.
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Old 03-11-2003, 02:27 PM   #51
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Old 03-27-2003, 07:32 AM   #52
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While I can't get too excited about how long my drivetrain freewheels, I have been thinking about the test of driveline amp draw mentioned by VR6vroom : check the no-load amp draw of a motor, put it in the car w/ pinion, check again. Since I just got a GFX & was looking for something to do (and because my XXXS was such a turd last Sunday) I thought I would try this. I checked an average MVP at 3.0 volts & recorded 5.3 no-load amps...hooked it up in the car & saw 6.1 amps (fwiw - no difference with or without tires). Then I cleaned all the carpet fuzz out of the hub bearings, diff bearings, and diff pulleys - driveline felt immediately better - and at 3.0 volts through the same motor showed 5.6 amps. I also applied drag to the tires just to get a feel for how easily the amp draw would increase & found that takes more than I thought to increase the draw by as little as 1 amp.

Anyone else try this yet? Seems like it might be a good indicator for when maintenance is due.

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Old 03-27-2003, 10:01 AM   #53
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I am a bit sceptical that a belt car like the the 414M or the LAB can do 12 seconds.... I mean heck I have bee working on this LAB and it is know to be rather quick and I don't get anywhere near that sort of duration.... Like all belt drives it doesnt free up until it is in motion!
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Old 03-27-2003, 10:34 AM   #54
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I don't see how a no load test with an ampere reading is any better than a freewheeling test where you count the seconds. Both are a measure of no load friction. On my Losi truck raced in stock I used a freewheeling test to measure the drivetrain efficiency. It used to freewheel for 30 seconds pinion off. When this time was reduced to about 15-20 seconds then it was time to change the idler gear in the tranny. I use Aerocar lube in this Losi tranny as well as in the TC3. Spin the wheels backwards rapidly so that the side of the gear teeth that are normally loaded are the ones in contact. The freewheeling test on the truck was very indicative of on track performance. When that idler gear wore the truck had less punch on the track.

I aggree that the freewheeling test is not a good way to compare different cars to each other, it is, however, a good easy way to check a car against itself.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-27-2003 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 03-27-2003, 10:42 AM   #55
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John S.,

With the Tamiya evo3 and its mysterious stripping one-way gear-I also used the free spin test to tell if the bevel gear was going south!! If drivetrain spun super free I knew everything in the tranny cases was good. If it spun, but notchy I knew the one-way gear was loose or stripping. And if it felt smooth but slow- also let me know if it was time to defuzz all my CVD's and bearings!!!

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Old 03-27-2003, 10:50 AM   #56
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you can definately tell when you have some built up fuzz in the bearings by doing the spin test! hehehe
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Old 03-27-2003, 10:52 AM   #57
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Default Drivetrain

Denny,
I am glad to see you tried my way and liked it. What are you guys thinking about. A freewheel test shows only how many times your wheels spin, if you run a light wheel, it will spin a lot less than a heavy wheel. So with the amp draw test, no wheels, you can actually see the difference from your hardwork. That is the real test. If the amp draw is minimal with the difference of the motor with no load, and after installing it, then you did something right. Spinning the wheels does nothing to test the drivetrain.
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Old 03-27-2003, 11:00 AM   #58
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spinning the wheels indeed tests the whole drivetrain. The only trouble with the using a motor is that the motors really aren't that consistent. Spring tension and brushes change the noload ampdraw even if the motor just sits in a drawer for a couple of weeks. It might be hard to get a good repeatable benchmark.

Last edited by John Stranahan; 03-27-2003 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 03-27-2003, 11:21 PM   #59
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Spinning the drivetrain with your hand isn't consistent either. For the freewheel thing to work, you'll need to spin the drivetrain up to the same initial velocity every time. "Feeling it" isn't accurate enough... what if you were just working out your arms the other day?
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Old 03-28-2003, 12:08 AM   #60
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I have run graphite lube on my gears and other moving parts for a few months now with no probs. Car will spin for 13 secs with rubber tyres on it.

cya
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