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Old 01-16-2008, 03:09 PM   #1291
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Anyone know what the nylon spring cups are for PN - 3287 ? I was thinking for the bottom of the tweak springs, but cannot see how they would stay put.

Also has anyone run the steering inline, benifets if any ?
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:30 PM   #1292
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Ceramic Balls - buy 1 pack get 1 pack free:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=201251
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:08 PM   #1293
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Originally Posted by GeorgePravata View Post
thank you I traded my tc5 for a new CRC Gen X built never ran And I broke the shock trying to remove the batterys there was no shock oil in the kit.
25wt should do you fine but experiment.
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:03 PM   #1294
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For a carpet track what is a good starting point on the number of turns (360 degrees) from the top I should set the rear pod springs at?
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Old 01-23-2008, 08:23 PM   #1295
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For a carpet track what is a good starting point on the number of turns (360 degrees) from the top I should set the rear pod springs at?
dont know the turns but start at just touching the pod then experiment with loading up the spring tension,find what works for you track and condition.
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:08 AM   #1296
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Does anyone have a good setup for stock? I will be attending the Snowbirds and my car is not even built yet so if anyone could help I would appreciate it very much.
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:48 PM   #1297
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Default tweak spring tension setting

it's often pretty hard to tell what is zero preload on the side springs since it's hard to see when they are just touching the pod's graphite. I've found a foolproof way of getting them adjusted and making sure that both are exactly the same. To start with, if you measure an assembled car, the distance from the top of the graphite side pieces that contain the tweak screw/spring assemblies and is the hooking place for the battery's oring......the distance from the top of those graphite side plates to the top of the main chassis and/or the top of the lower pod plate's graphite surface is 15.11mm. That would also the distance from the top of that same side graphite piece to the bottom of the installed side spring ....assuming that one wants zero spring preload. This is very easy to measure with the side pieces off the car such that you can really see what your are measuring with the calipers. From that 'zero preload' measurement, once can easily add the desired amount of preload on both sides so they are exactly the same. I usually set mine at about 15.5mm. That setting yields .39mm of preload on each spring. With tires equal left to right, and side spring preload measured in this manner, the car checks out exactly right on the tweakboard every time. If it ever doesn't....then that's a clear indicator that something is awry elsewhere in the car such as a bent axle or twisted pod side plate. But if the car doesn't have damaged parts, this method of setting side spring preload has proven to be very reliable and very repeatable. Of course, some guys will choose more or less preload, and that's something to tinker with and adjust to your own preference. But at least you can be confident that both springs are equal if you measure their settings in this manner. Hope this helps. Happy motoring.
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Old 01-25-2008, 06:29 PM   #1298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gijoe64 View Post
Does anyone have a good setup for stock? I will be attending the Snowbirds and my car is not even built yet so if anyone could help I would appreciate it very much.
This should be a good start:

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...showpage&pid=7

Good luck at the birds
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:10 PM   #1299
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Gullicksons ceramic balls are very good....
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:55 AM   #1300
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are the new metric front springs shorter that a front associated spring? because ill have to much preload if i use a associated spring.
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:53 PM   #1301
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Default AMBr transponder Q

Whats up All!! Not an owner yet...............hope to within the week but I was wondering, does AMBr make a generic replacement case for their transponders? I don't need it to have my number on the outside, I just need it to have the ears on it as I'd like to take advantage of the cars place for it.

Thanks,
Kevin
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Old 01-30-2008, 03:43 PM   #1302
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Yep. The CRC metric springs are shorter. The .50mm is just a little stiffer than an ae .020" and the .45mm is just a little stiffer than an ae .018".

Start with the .50s and if you need more steering try the .45s. You'll know if you've gone too soft if the car scrubs alot of speed by breaking the rear a little loose in the corners.

James
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:36 PM   #1303
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Default FS: Team CRC Gen-X

I have my Team CRC Gen-X for sale. It is listed here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?p=4130373#post4130373

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Old 01-30-2008, 08:55 PM   #1304
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What do you Guys like for a (ROAR) legal19t brushed motor? I need something that will compete with my brushless competitors

Regards,
Steve
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Old 01-31-2008, 05:18 PM   #1305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hicheef View Post
Whats up All!! Not an owner yet...............hope to within the week but I was wondering, does AMBr make a generic replacement case for their transponders? I don't need it to have my number on the outside, I just need it to have the ears on it as I'd like to take advantage of the cars place for it.

Thanks,
Kevin
no you need to get a new pt
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