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Old 02-04-2007, 07:17 PM   #751
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Originally Posted by STARSCREAM
the new Pro-strut front end is designed so you can make any change much easier than a Associated front end...

...and apparently that's a GOOD thing, 'cause it sounds like folks are changing a LOT of bottom arms. I've NEVER broken an Associated lower arm (though now I've doomed myself to a nonstop slew of broken arms).

I've "set-up" both the Gen-X and "Associated" (I use mostly Calandra upgrade parts) front ends and I don't necessarily agree that the new front end is any easier. It MAY build-up a bit faster, but I'm fine doing set-up on the arrangement I've got.

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Old 02-04-2007, 08:08 PM   #752
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Originally Posted by STARSCREAM
not hard to setup!!! thats what is so great about the Gen X. easy to make changes...the rear side springs can be changed by just taking a couple screws out...on a T-bar car you have to change the bar and thats alot more work...

the new Pro-strut front end is designed so you can make any change much easier than a Associated front end...

check out CRC's site for all the cool details explained very well by Frank himself...
thats what i said..
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Old 02-04-2007, 08:36 PM   #753
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Default Progress...? Well, uh, no....

Quote:
Originally Posted by acyrier
Broke an arm on a light bump as well. This racer told me he's putting it together one more time, if it breaks again, he's going back to the "old school" front end or the original dynamic strut from associated. While either of those front ends may not be the best anymore, You cant win if you don't finish.
That was my arm today... Cost me an "A" Main run. Granted it was a club race, but it was at a track I've never been to, with a bunch of "bad boys" that would've made me proud to be in the show with.
I recently wrote about the graphite spacers seeming to help. To go a step further, I made an, IMO, beautiful foam front bumper for the car... Ironically, I broke it on a corner that was made of foam. It's unusually odd, as it seems the arm must have a "sweet spot", one in which if the conditions (steering angle, speed, trajectory, relative humidity....) are correct, the arm takes on the personality of an armadillo (no pun intended) where it's shell turns to glass when frightened.
I'm now out of arms, with exception of what is on the car. My "kill count" is 5 arms on-track, and one threading the "threading screw" in at the track. As this is the first 12th scale "link" car I've owned, I'm learning the car, and am able to be faster and more consistent than any car I've run. However, if I cannot keep this car on the track, this front end does me no good. After today, I'm going back to the old front end. If anyone needs a bunch of upper control arms for a new CRC front end, let me know....
Other than that, my car's a rocket. Tunable... Responsive... Consistent... Yet, it's completely frustrating motoring around in the "B" with the goal of not breaking another arm taking precedence over putting in a fierce pace to see what you can do.
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Old 02-04-2007, 09:31 PM   #754
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Last edited by STARSCREAM; 02-04-2007 at 10:34 PM.
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Old 02-05-2007, 07:49 AM   #755
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Originally Posted by blue247carz
Hi guys, don't no if anyone can help with my gen x's pulling to the left problem.

I have been running 12th since the gen x hit the ground and basically built it from Mark Payne's 3.2r guidlines.

I have had lots of help from Jason Butterfield at our local track and virtually got the car up to speed, BUT when i accelerate hard mainly out of the last right hand corner onto the long straight the car just pulls left and try's to hit the wall unless I correct it. Very off putting when trying to push and stay consistant.

Before every race I place the car on my MIP tweek station and get the car perfect accoring to the bubble and as soon as I get to the same bit of the track without touching anythink on the way round it pulls LEFT.

I run in 19t with a KO 949 servo and lrp qps speedo.
I run the 96t kimborough spur with 12 standard balls and a slapmaster thrust.
Jason says the diff is perfect.
I run the standard blue grease in the side dampers just on the rings and white side springs with 1 turn of preload before tweek adj.
I have found the car is a little better when the cells are in the rear position especially towards the end of the 8mins for rear grip.
.50 front springs with a tiny amount of preload
All tyres are high roller crc purple/grey and are same diameter each side.
3.5mm ride height throughout with 1mm droop.

I did hear someone mention a prob with the servo's not centering properly but why would this only happen in one place on the track?

Any help would be appreciated as I am rapidly loosing interest.

Thanks
Paul Pinkney

Binding in the Rear, take the top and L & R pod off check bootom plate

Hope it helps

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Old 02-06-2007, 09:55 PM   #756
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
can you tell im bord here you go.
Wally, what ball end did you use on your shock????? I would like to do the same mod on my Gen X...\\also, what is the part number for the Slapmaster Belville washer everyone is using on their Gen X?????
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Old 02-06-2007, 10:22 PM   #757
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Originally Posted by ghoppa
Wally, what ball end did you use on your shock????? I would like to do the same mod on my Gen X...\\also, what is the part number for the Slapmaster Belville washer everyone is using on their Gen X?????
the shock ball ends are x ray and i dont remember the slapmaster part # but if you look at mark payne's site he may have them there.i got the info from him.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:55 AM   #758
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Got a good question here,

Friend bought a Gen-X last week. He said the only way to get the motor out, you have to take part rear 12th scale apart to do so, is that right?
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:58 AM   #759
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Yes and no..(yeah, I know, lame answer) I can get my monster out, but does require a bit of pressure. not much, but a little.
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Old 02-07-2007, 10:58 AM   #760
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Originally Posted by BSchorr
Got a good question here,

Friend bought a Gen-X last week. He said the only way to get the motor out, you have to take part rear 12th scale apart to do so, is that right?
Take the top two screws out of the right side of the pod, and loosen the one on the left side. Then you can swing the whole top plate out of the way and get the motor out the top...
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:36 AM   #761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr
Got a good question here,

Friend bought a Gen-X last week. He said the only way to get the motor out, you have to take part rear 12th scale apart to do so, is that right?
Seems there's a little "sweet spot" (my car seems to have a few of those) that requires a slight force, the right angle. You can screw with it for 20 minutes, then it just falls out.... thinking a slight dremeling to the left bulkhead (although I think above they addressed that there's a new one coming soon- did I read that right???)
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:39 AM   #762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team CRC
Also, a cool new left bulkhead that you can put a brushless in the car without touching a screw. With this new bulkhead you can also install a stock motor with a 38 pinion on it without removing or loosening a screw, lots of room.
There ya go....
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Old 02-07-2007, 11:47 AM   #763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddFalkowski
Seems there's a little "sweet spot" (my car seems to have a few of those) that requires a slight force, the right angle. You can screw with it for 20 minutes, then it just falls out.... thinking a slight dremeling to the left bulkhead (although I think above they addressed that there's a new one coming soon- did I read that right???)
This may not be necessary, Frank is working on a new left bulkhead so motors can be taken out without screwing the pod apart.
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Old 02-07-2007, 06:50 PM   #764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BSchorr
Got a good question here,

Friend bought a Gen-X last week. He said the only way to get the motor out, you have to take part rear 12th scale apart to do so, is that right?
yes with today's motor's but all you have to do is shave a little off the top of the left pod plate.
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:43 PM   #765
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Default Graphite 3mm Front End Spacer

If you get a globe shaped grinding stone found with most dremil's and carefully countersink the holes so that the spacer sits flat on the underside of the lower arm.

This will still give you the maximum strength on the underside of the front arm.

You could also use an 8/32 countersink and carefully countersink enough to allow the screw head to sit in it.
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