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Old 02-03-2007, 06:56 AM   #736
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Default Progress....?

Last night, I put a new one on the car (replacing the one I broke monday) Cracked the rear screw hole when running the screw in. When the car felt a board coming, it laid down and broke it off... So, pulled another one out of the bag, tapped the screws, put the graphite spacers in, trued the tires into the 1.60" range, TADA! Smacked a board a ton just after time was called in my second qualifier, no breakage. (woo hoo!) Another guy at Michiana cut down a set of solid Associated spacer blocks- during the main I hear "WHAM", then "Cool, it didn't break!"

IMO, when "working" with this front-end material (how it cuts when trimming flashing, how easy it taps, and how the material comes off the tap) I feel the material is too brittle, or something along that line. (Reminds me of the material the front arms of the original JRX2's were- remember them?) But, while maybe not a "solution", the graphite (or a proper solid) spacer seems to help. (As does not hitting anything! )

Thanks again to CRC for listening!!! As I get track time on this car, starting to really like it!!!
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Old 02-03-2007, 12:00 PM   #737
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Default New review and building guide for GenX

Hi All

I have just finished my review and building tips for the new Prostrut Front End from CRC.

This is posted at the normal place: http://www.12thrc.com

There are a few bugs with it as it is a bit of a monster article. See what you think and feel free to comment.

Mark
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Old 02-03-2007, 02:00 PM   #738
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I managed to snap two more arms today with light hits on the boards. When I broke the second one, it didn't even upset the chassis, but the arm proved different. I realize that CRC is working on the issue, but here's another question for you. Can you package them in pairs instead of one upper and one lower? I'm really starting to build up a collection of upper arms.
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Old 02-03-2007, 05:48 PM   #739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
Hi All

I have just finished my review and building tips for the new Prostrut Front End from CRC.

This is posted at the normal place: http://www.12thrc.com

There are a few bugs with it as it is a bit of a monster article. See what you think and feel free to comment.

Mark
Mark, nice work on the page.

I might have found a measurement error that threw me when I was reading it on the page. And may throw others.

From your page:
"...A standard Associated 1/8th inch (0.1250" in theory) king pin measures 0.1240" diameter giving 10 thou of running clearance, the CRC threaded king pin is very accurately machined to exactly 0.1245" resulting in only 5 thou of clearance...."

The clearance mentioned is only 1/1000, not 10/1000 when going from .124 to .125

The 4th digit is 10,000ths. 5/10000's (or 1/2 a 1000th), .1245 is 1245/10,000ths of an inch.

Hope I'm not tired and read that wrong, or I'm gonna look like a spud...
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Old 02-03-2007, 07:20 PM   #740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
Mark, nice work on the page.

I might have found a measurement error that threw me when I was reading it on the page. And may throw others.

From your page:
"...A standard Associated 1/8th inch (0.1250" in theory) king pin measures 0.1240" diameter giving 10 thou of running clearance, the CRC threaded king pin is very accurately machined to exactly 0.1245" resulting in only 5 thou of clearance...."

The clearance mentioned is only 1/1000, not 10/1000 when going from .124 to .125

The 4th digit is 10,000ths. 5/10000's (or 1/2 a 1000th), .1245 is 1245/10,000ths of an inch.

Hope I'm not tired and read that wrong, or I'm gonna look like a spud...
You read it right. The difference between .124" and .125" is .001" or one thousandth, not 10.
If the measurements stated in the article are correct the clearance would be .0005" or 1/2 a thousandth.
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Old 02-03-2007, 08:55 PM   #741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob-Stormer
Mark, nice work on the page.

I might have found a measurement error that threw me when I was reading it on the page. And may throw others.

From your page:
"...A standard Associated 1/8th inch (0.1250" in theory) king pin measures 0.1240" diameter giving 10 thou of running clearance, the CRC threaded king pin is very accurately machined to exactly 0.1245" resulting in only 5 thou of clearance...."

The clearance mentioned is only 1/1000, not 10/1000 when going from .124 to .125

The 4th digit is 10,000ths. 5/10000's (or 1/2 a 1000th), .1245 is 1245/10,000ths of an inch.

Hope I'm not tired and read that wrong, or I'm gonna look like a spud...
that is correct. .0005 is 5 tenths of a thousanth or 1/2 a thousanth.usually axles are centerless ground because it is very accurate and also very fast.it is the best way to control roundness and diameter of a round part at a minimal cost.
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Old 02-03-2007, 11:42 PM   #742
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Thanks Guys

Typos corrected. I have no excuse to be honest. I live in a metric land but I did all my machine shop training on imperial kit.... but that was a long time ago!

Here's me thinking I am sanding off 5 thou by hand on a dremel ;-) Idiot. That would have taken a little while longer........

Cheers

Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
that is correct. .0005 is 5 tenths of a thousanth or 1/2 a thousanth.usually axles are centerless ground because it is very accurate and also very fast.it is the best way to control roundness and diameter of a round part at a minimal cost.
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:47 AM   #743
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no big deal dude.its cool that you make those blogs to help people out.hats off to you
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Old 02-04-2007, 11:48 AM   #744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
...Here's me thinking I am sanding off 5 thou by hand on a dremel ;-) ....
I just figured you were very patient
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:00 PM   #745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltskin
I managed to snap two more arms today with light hits on the boards. When I broke the second one, it didn't even upset the chassis, but the arm proved different. I realize that CRC is working on the issue, but here's another question for you. Can you package them in pairs instead of one upper and one lower? I'm really starting to build up a collection of upper arms.
I second that!

A couple of us travled to a different track then our norm today. Broke an arm on a light bump as well. This racer told me he's putting it together one more time, if it breaks again, he's going back to the "old school" front end or the original dynamic strut from associated. While either of those front ends may not be the best anymore, You cant win if you don't finish.
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:23 PM   #746
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This probably been answered, sorry, too lazy to read all 25+ pages. Is the chassis easy to setup? When you make a change in the setup, do you notice it on the track? Are the lower arms that fragile? Might be a problem with me. lol. Thanks for any reply.
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:48 PM   #747
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Originally Posted by acyrier
I second that!

A couple of us travled to a different track then our norm today. Broke an arm on a light bump as well. This racer told me he's putting it together one more time, if it breaks again, he's going back to the "old school" front end or the original dynamic strut from associated. While either of those front ends may not be the best anymore, You cant win if you don't finish.

Its not the fact that the new CRC pro-strut is the best its just supposed to make it easier to set up and more consistent.
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:50 PM   #748
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not hard to setup!!! thats what is so great about the Gen X. easy to make changes...the rear side springs can be changed by just taking a couple screws out...on a T-bar car you have to change the bar and thats alot more work...

the new Pro-strut front end is designed so you can make any change much easier than a Associated front end...

check out CRC's site for all the cool details explained very well by Frank himself...
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:04 PM   #749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vabroom
This probably been answered, sorry, too lazy to read all 25+ pages. Is the chassis easy to setup? When you make a change in the setup, do you notice it on the track? Are the lower arms that fragile? Might be a problem with me. lol. Thanks for any reply.
most problems with the lower arms comes from using the alm saddles use the graphite ones i have not broken an arm since iv started to us them,the car is truly a dream,the more i run it the more i like it.i dont shave the graphite i counter sink the two screws for the upper block more so the arm sits flush with the graphite saddles.

Last edited by wallyedmonds; 02-04-2007 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:14 PM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperRooster
The graphite ride height spacer is thinner than the aluminum ones that come with the kit. Using the graphite spacer will actually put the front arms lower on the chassis. You should have no problem making ride height when using the graphite spacers and the plastic ride height spacers from CRC.

I also have not broken a front arm since switching to the graphite spacer.


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