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Old 01-30-2007, 08:50 AM   #691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpoage
Here is a possible alternative to this RPM bell cranks.

RPM 70892 Centre Links

I have not personally tried these but a customer ask me to get them to replace side links?
Yes, I can verify that the RPM 1-piece links work and they last longer and develop less play than the stock CRC/ Associated 1-piece links. I have seen John and Frank from CRC use them on their cars before.
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:15 AM   #692
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Barriers...2x4's. (yes, would rather have PVC or similar)

Since we cracked (2) arms while threading them, we have since purchased a tap to thread the holes, and that hasn't been a problem since.

As far as breaking while running when crunching a wall. I expect to break things when you have a hard enough hit, but there have been times we felt like the hit wasn't hard enough to actually "break". there have been several guys that have been running the 3.1 and 3.2r cars and have not

I've only broke one so far, but it broke right at the main screw holes that fasten it down to the chassis...both holes.

See picture for break points.
The black lines indicate where they have been breaking for us. The green line indicates where we have broken a couple when threading w/the included SS screw.
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CRC's New Generation-X.... Your Thoughts?-breakpoints.jpg  
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Old 01-30-2007, 02:54 PM   #693
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Default Gen X pulling to the left?

Hi guys, don't no if anyone can help with my gen x's pulling to the left problem.

I have been running 12th since the gen x hit the ground and basically built it from Mark Payne's 3.2r guidlines.

I have had lots of help from Jason Butterfield at our local track and virtually got the car up to speed, BUT when i accelerate hard mainly out of the last right hand corner onto the long straight the car just pulls left and try's to hit the wall unless I correct it. Very off putting when trying to push and stay consistant.

Before every race I place the car on my MIP tweek station and get the car perfect accoring to the bubble and as soon as I get to the same bit of the track without touching anythink on the way round it pulls LEFT.

I run in 19t with a KO 949 servo and lrp qps speedo.
I run the 96t kimborough spur with 12 standard balls and a slapmaster thrust.
Jason says the diff is perfect.
I run the standard blue grease in the side dampers just on the rings and white side springs with 1 turn of preload before tweek adj.
I have found the car is a little better when the cells are in the rear position especially towards the end of the 8mins for rear grip.
.50 front springs with a tiny amount of preload
All tyres are high roller crc purple/grey and are same diameter each side.
3.5mm ride height throughout with 1mm droop.

I did hear someone mention a prob with the servo's not centering properly but why would this only happen in one place on the track?

Any help would be appreciated as I am rapidly loosing interest.

Thanks
Paul Pinkney
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Old 01-30-2007, 03:08 PM   #694
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Make sure the front axle is not moving around inside the plastic knuckle, a guy in my area had that cuase his car to do all sorts of weird stuff.
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:00 PM   #695
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I just wanna know who the hot babe is at the top left of the first picture!!! LoL!!
my wife
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:13 PM   #696
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well ill say this,id rather change a front arm than a t plate any day and i did hit a metal beam and it did not brake why i dont know, i think its how you hit it now i will also say iv broken AE front arms in my day and the thiner axles bend easier than the gen x's,
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Old 01-30-2007, 04:32 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue247carz
BUT when i accelerate hard mainly out of the last right hand corner onto the long straight the car just pulls left and try's to hit the wall unless I correct it. Very off putting when trying to push and stay consistant.
and

Quote:
Originally Posted by blue247carz
I run the standard blue grease in the side dampers just on the rings and white side springs with 1 turn of preload before tweek adj.
Paul--I would agree that it's not your servo. What I think is that your chassis is responding too slowly to coming out of the turn, and my thought is it's the "blue" ("extra heavy") tube lube providing too much dampening so the pod doesn't come back to center fast enough. Try going down one step to the "white" ("heavy") lube or even the "red" ("light") and see if that doesn't speed up the response and reduce your pull.

Now, you may also find you have to go "up" to a red side spring if the too heavy dampening was mimicking heavier side springs as far as general steering response. Try the lighter lube for a run or two, then add in the heavier spring. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

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Old 01-30-2007, 04:50 PM   #698
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i run blue lube and white side springs and i dont have this problem, generally 1/12 cars will pull to the left this is tweak,balance of the chassis,front springs,and the spur being on the right side of the car,now who remembers hydro drive, instead of gears you ran a belt and it was on the left side of the car and the car would want to at times pull to the right.and yes you ran the motor backwards.
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Old 01-30-2007, 07:02 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue247carz
Hi guys, don't no if anyone can help with my gen x's pulling to the left problem.

I have been running 12th since the gen x hit the ground and basically built it from Mark Payne's 3.2r guidlines.

I have had lots of help from Jason Butterfield at our local track and virtually got the car up to speed, BUT when i accelerate hard mainly out of the last right hand corner onto the long straight the car just pulls left and try's to hit the wall unless I correct it. Very off putting when trying to push and stay consistant.

Before every race I place the car on my MIP tweek station and get the car perfect accoring to the bubble and as soon as I get to the same bit of the track without touching anythink on the way round it pulls LEFT.

I run in 19t with a KO 949 servo and lrp qps speedo.
I run the 96t kimborough spur with 12 standard balls and a slapmaster thrust.
Jason says the diff is perfect.
I run the standard blue grease in the side dampers just on the rings and white side springs with 1 turn of preload before tweek adj.
I have found the car is a little better when the cells are in the rear position especially towards the end of the 8mins for rear grip.
.50 front springs with a tiny amount of preload
All tyres are high roller crc purple/grey and are same diameter each side.
3.5mm ride height throughout with 1mm droop.

I did hear someone mention a prob with the servo's not centering properly but why would this only happen in one place on the track?

Any help would be appreciated as I am rapidly loosing interest.

Thanks
Paul Pinkney

Is it "pulling" hard to the left, or slowly creeping to the left? Is everybody doing it, or is it just your car? Diff perfect or not, would the problem correct if you over tightened the diff a bit?

Can you blame the nap on the carpet, or a previous racing groove?

How much slop do you have in your ride height adjusters on the pod? Mine had enough that under HARD acceleration, the pinion pushed up against the spur pushing the axle back on that side and pulling it forward on the other side and would actually create a geometry situation that would slowly steer the car left under power. I've got a few thousands slop. Like way to much, like possibly a machining problem. The ride adjusters will fall out on there own with no axle in the car. Tip the car on it's side with no rear axle in it, the adjuster just slides right out. That's to sloppy for that part.
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Old 01-30-2007, 09:09 PM   #700
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this is a very good point
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Old 01-31-2007, 06:30 AM   #701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue247carz
when i accelerate hard mainly out of the last right hand corner onto the long straight the car just pulls left and try's to hit the wall unless I correct it.
What does the car do when it's sitting still and you accelerate hard? If it pulls to one side then try this.

The first place that I would look is the rear axel. Take your calipers and measure from the centerline of the car (lower pod plate on GenX has a hole along the centerline) to the outside of each rear wheel. This measurement must be EXACTLY the same on both sides otherwise the car will pull one way. You may need to buy some .010", or .005" shims to get the axel centered.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:08 AM   #702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
now who remembers hydro drive, instead of gears you ran a belt and it was on the left side of the car and the car would want to at times pull to the right.and yes you ran the motor backwards.
LOL...I remember these. I had a set in my first ever 12th scale the TRC Pro12.

And it was Hyperdrive...if memory serves correctly.
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:02 PM   #703
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Cheers for all your reply's,

I have measured my rear wheels from the centre line of the rear pod and adjusted the shims on each side to correct the balance as this was slightly out but it did not really change the handling as it was only minute.

My car does seem to be the only car that has this problem at our track hence why I new it was a setup fault.

It will pull to the left if you just accelerate hard from a standstill but does seem to be intermittant somewhat!!!

The diff I have been told that it's perfect, no slip and very smooth and free.

The ride height adjusters did have a very small amount of movement but I was told to slightly cover the adjusters with super glue and replace. I have done this and it has worked great no slop and the glue doesn't stick to the red anodise.

To be honest I do need to try a thinner side damper lube as this could be making the car slow to react to direction changes and giving the impression of a tweek issue.

I have tried the stiffer red side springs but this reduces the front end grip too much and as we only have 4 heats and 1 final in our champ the grip doesn't really build up enough.
I was thinking about softening the side springs and the damper lube as the car does seem quite stiff in roll against Jason Butterfields Trinity which is unbelievably quick and looks easy to drive in comparison.

I think I may rebuild from scratch and remeasure everything again just to make double sure, maybe I need to measure the tension of the side springs and see if there even too.

I will try all of your other tips and let you know!!

Many Thanks Again

Paul Pinkney
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:20 PM   #704
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Yes, I concur with acyrier's picture of where they are breaking. From what I've seen and from personal experience, it's always been near the black lines on his diagram.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:54 PM   #705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue247carz
I have tried the stiffer red side springs but this reduces the front end grip too much and as we only have 4 heats and 1 final in our champ the grip doesn't really build up enough.
I was thinking about softening the side springs and the damper lube as the car does seem quite stiff in roll against Jason Butterfields Trinity which is unbelievably quick and looks easy to drive in comparison.
Go slowly, and make one change at a time here.

Stiffer side springs shouldn't reduce front end grip.

Reducing tube fluid weight will make the chassis think (to a degree) it has softer springs, at least in transition.

Referencing Rich Chang's EXCELLENT 1/12 handling trouble-shooting sheet (pm me your e-mail address if you don't have this) "if the car isn't centering up fast enough use stiffer side springs". I have found this to be true, and generally enhanced steering a bit, or at least helped eliminate my on-power push problems with my 3.2R's.

Re-emphasize...make one change at a time as you sneak up on this.

Scottrik
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