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Old 01-23-2007, 02:22 PM   #661
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Arh.. you voted!

Sometimes I bore myself
Much as I understand it, I still cannot reguarly get out of our UK National C final. I am an middle aged man with only_average thumbs who thinks too much.

Mark

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Originally Posted by Thraex
Mark, you really do have enough free time, don't you?!
No but really, most of it I already read on RaceChat and it does makes sense.
When I first thought about it, I thought about placing like 10gr on the pinion side, but I couldn't figure out if that would really make a difference.
I guess you answered the question pretty much spot on and I have to thank you for that, it's always nice to read about your thoughts about these kind of things.
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:06 PM   #662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
Much as I understand it, I still cannot reguarly get out of our UK National C final. I am an middle aged man with only_average thumbs who thinks too much.Mark
Well there is the problem, stop using your thumbs and get a real radio?
I really enjoy your writings so keep the caffeine thing going.
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:12 PM   #663
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Anybody have a problem with their motor moving forward upon impacting a wall? I consider my self a decent driver with the occasional brain fade, but for the most part I can stay off the boards. It's those one hit a race deals that kill my runs. I'm not talking about head on collisions either. It seems that the way CRC designed the car with the graphite plate taking half the load of the motor mount screw that it doesn't hold that great. I have gone to a large washer on top and crank on the motor screws with king kong type torque and it still happens. This never happend with my CK3.2r.
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:17 PM   #664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasupacat1
Anybody have a problem with their motor moving forward upon impacting a wall? I consider my self a decent driver with the occasional brain fade, but for the most part I can stay off the boards. It's those one hit a race deals that kill my runs. I'm not talking about head on collisions either. It seems that the way CRC designed the car with the graphite plate taking half the load of the motor mount screw that it doesn't hold that great. I have gone to a large washer on top and crank on the motor screws with king kong type torque and it still happens. This never happend with my CK3.2r.
Here's a couple of things that helped me with that problem.
Use Lunsford Fat Boy motor screws, the big heads and oversized washer hold really well.
Motor washers slip easier on anodized aluminum than plain, sand off the anodizing on the motor plate where the motor washers sit.
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:48 PM   #665
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does anyone have the instruction manual for Gen-X that can scans and post on here. i need it as a guild to buy the whole Gen-X front end for my 1/12 scale. thanks
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Old 01-24-2007, 02:59 PM   #666
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Default Order the entire front end!

Why mess around with pieces when you can order the complete front end?

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=4984
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Old 01-24-2007, 03:13 PM   #667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe
Why mess around with pieces when you can order the complete front end?
http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=4984
I appreciate the plug but we have yet to get any of these units complete. We have had good parts support for the gen-x but the complete units are most likely being held back for building kits which we are also not seeing?
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:04 PM   #668
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What parts do you break often on this car.If any.lol.I need to know what to stock up on.
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Old 01-25-2007, 06:17 PM   #669
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Lower Front Arms.
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Old 01-25-2007, 07:44 PM   #670
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I tried something new on the GenX tonight. I have been wanting to do something different with the side links. The play that develops seems excessive after a few race days (at least the way I drive the car *crash! bang*).

Today I put together some spare 1" Lunsford tie rods with RPM ball cups. When screwed completely down they are the same length as the CRC side links. I built them, measured them to get them both to the exact same length then installed them on the car and reset the rear pod. They are nice and snug without binding or any other nasty problems. Hopefully the RPM ends will not develop the play the CRC ones did.

We'll see how it does.
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:46 PM   #671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Today I put together some spare 1" Lunsford tie rods with RPM ball cups. When screwed completely down they are the same length as the CRC side links. I built them, measured them to get them both to the exact same length then installed them on the car and reset the rear pod. They are nice and snug without binding or any other nasty problems. Hopefully the RPM ends will not develop the play the CRC ones did.
We'll see how it does.
Here is a possible alternative to this RPM bell cranks.

RPM 70892 Centre Links

I have not personally tried these but a customer ask me to get them to replace side links?
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:47 PM   #672
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I've heard those will work. I had these laying around so I thought I would try it.
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Old 01-25-2007, 08:52 PM   #673
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Well they are certainty cheap enought and I'm all about Keeping It Simple Stupid.
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Old 01-25-2007, 11:58 PM   #674
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
try using the rpm center links,part # 70892
for the side links,this works great.they will free up in time,3 runs or so and at that time they will stay.
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Old 01-26-2007, 12:04 AM   #675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racingfreak6
What parts do you break often on this car.If any.lol.I need to know what to stock up on.
tires andthe lower arm balls,the king pin moves inside the ball just a little and maybe lower arms
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