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Old 01-18-2007, 01:56 PM   #646
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Just installed my LRP Sphere. The connectors are from Integy 3.5mm Euro Connectors. I think it'll work, can't wait to try it out Sunday.
Man... you need to find someone who can help you wire more neatly.
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Old 01-18-2007, 02:00 PM   #647
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Actually, I just got my package today from Ashford Hobby with some TQ 16ga wire in it. That sutff is even smaller and more flexible than what is in the pic. I'm putting the TQ wire on now.

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Old 01-18-2007, 03:37 PM   #648
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Hmm

Be carefull. IMHO it is erroneous to correct any out of balance issues in the rear pod by appling balance correction in the front part of the chassis.

My full point is here: http://www.rcracechat.com/vb/showthread.php?t=23696

There are a few that disagree with me. I am often beaten but rarely wrong ............

Now RX packs... if your are new to brushless on 4 cell I would warn you of a Sphere/Sphere Competition issue. Towards the end of a run (lets say 6 mins in) the dip in battery voltage as you power up can make the ESC think that you are dumping (when you are not). The result is that the ESC current limits the motor feed in order to maintain voltage to the servo and RX. This makes the car feel like its going soft way way before it should. An RX pack fixes this issue. Take it or leave it....

Best regards

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
Thanks...the right side is a bit light but not much at all. I'll get that fixed tonight or tomorrow.
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:48 PM   #649
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Mark, I used the front and middle balance holes (the one in the middle on the main chassis, not the rear pod) to check balance.

Would you think I would need an RX pack running a Novak 13.5?
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:01 PM   #650
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Hi

Sorry.. all my comments about brushless and the ESC refer to the leading edge of modified... 4-5 Star motors. I have never run a "mild" brushless, I would expect that you would have no issues.

Ok... it does not matter where you put the balance pins. The rear pod is still influencing the balance.

The way to ignore the rear pod in the balance test is to remove the tweak braces, allow the rear end to sit on tyres and pivot the front of the chasis on a balance pin. Now your balance pivots are your pin at the front and the rear pivot ball connecting the front and rear parts of the chassis.

Does this make sense to you?

Mark
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:52 PM   #651
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does anyone know who sells the pro strut front end as a kit ?

i looked at a few places online and crc's webstie and couldnt find anything.
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:57 PM   #652
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for the crc 3.2r would I buy the gen X parts if things broke?



Didnt see any thing on crc's site.
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:59 PM   #653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallstreet
does anyone know who sells the pro strut front end as a kit ? i looked at a few places online and crc's webstie and couldnt find anything.
CRC has not shipped any complete front ends to us yet and we have had them on order from day one. To CRC's credit they have done a fantastic job of supplying all the individual items. A lot of other manufacturers could take a lesson on product support from the CRC boys.
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Old 01-18-2007, 09:45 PM   #654
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The CRC CK3.2 and the Gen-X are two different cars. I have one of each and I'm trying to sell the CK3.1 that I raced before the CK3.2. About the only thing that is the same between all three cars is the holes in the chassis for the front end to screw to. I have been running the oldskol front end as it is lighter and lasts longer. One of the racers got a Gen-x when it first came out and broke a lower arm w/o replacement parts. I handed him a spare oldskol front end and it bolted right on. There might be a few other little parts that will exchange between the cars but I have not checked that out yet.

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Old 01-20-2007, 03:36 AM   #655
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just to let all you know if you want a good diff get the slapmaster thrust thing it rullz.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:05 AM   #656
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Default Pro Strut Front End

Quote:
Originally Posted by wallstreet
does anyone know who sells the pro strut front end as a kit ?

i looked at a few places online and crc's webstie and couldnt find anything.
I ordered one before Christmas from CRC and it came right after Christmas. http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...esc&perpage=10

Page 3 in GenX parts section. Item 25 $ 50.00 US.
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:21 AM   #657
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Ran my GenX for the first time yesterday, and this car is fantastic!

I haven't raced 1/12 scale for at least 12 years....could be as long as 13-14, but I sure don't ever remember it being this easy!

Good job on the car, guys!
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:03 PM   #658
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Default Balance Discussion

Hi guys.. take it or leave it.
"Off Siders" questions about GenX chassis balance and tweak are at the bottom. It might help some and bore others to death.
I wont ask you to vote!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Off Sider,

This is turning into War and Peace!

1. Do not take the rear pod off the car. There is no need to do this.

2. To eliminate the rear pod in influencing the balance of the rest of the car all you need to do is remove the two tweak braces (and hence the rear side springs). Keep the rear tyres on the car having set your ride height to say 4mm (or whatever you normally run).

3. Take off your front wheels and place a short balancing pin at the front on the centre line. I use a short 4mm long countersunk headed screw for this, it will sit upside down on your flat surface. You can file the thread part to a point if you like.

Now the front part of the chassis can balance around the centre pivot ball at the back and your balance pin at the front. Move your stuff around till you get a balance. Encourage the chassis to tip one way or the other by getting it parallel to your flat surface tapping it. There is a small amount of friction in the rear pivot ball and side links so you will need to feel your way here.

Once this part of the chassis is in balance you are done. Finish!

Now carry on and tweak the car out as described in my guide. I think you have this down.

*********

The rear pod is still out of balance becasue of the brushless but you are not going to worry about this. Repeat after me "....I am not going to worry about the balance of the rear pod...." say it a few times to yourself and try lighting a candle. There... that feels better yes?

We are not worried because:
1. The error is very small. The grip level from the rear tyres is massive in comparison.
2. One wheel may lift fractionally at a different point for a left "diff out" compared to a right "diff out". The point is that if your car is doing this (diffing out) then your basic setup is very wrong and... no human being could take a curve accurately enough to notice the difference anyway.
3. The only place that it would make sense to add weight to correct the rear pod would be on the rear pod itself but we are not going to do this because....
3a. A brushless car (with RX pack) weighs around 880-890g (unless you are so kind of genius). This is 80g over the minimum allowed of 800g. This car is already 10% heavier than it could be. I am NOT going to add more weight to it ok?
4. Any fractional difference in rear tyre diameter will effect the car FAR greater than the pod balance. This diameter error creeps in after a few laps due to uneven wear rates.

*******
In answer to your last point about tweaking. I will take you through it again... The rear pod is not laterally sprung. It does not move due to the weight balance left to right.

Question ... is the bottom of the rear chassis pod parallel to the floor?
Answer: Yes
Question ... What makes it parallel?
Answer: the relative diameters of the left and right rear tyres.
Question ... What would happen to this parallel attitude if you placed a 30g lead weight and hung it off the motor pinion right over to the "light side" of the brushless motor
Answer ... .... think about it ... ... NOTHING
Question ... Why?
Answer: Because the rear tyres are relatively massively stiff and the rear pod is effectively unsprung.
Question .. So if the pod does not move what effect will the 30g weight or lack of it have on the tweak of the car?
Answer .... It will have no effect. The pod does not move, the sping points do not move.

*******************

Now.. the same is NOT true of the front part of the chassis. This is laterally sprung. It is laterally sprung at the front by the independant front springs and at the rear by the independant rear "tweak" springs.

What will happen to the lie of the front chassis if you hang 30g out on one side to correct the supposed pod issue (which I hope you now see is not an issue)?

Answer... you have tweaked your car. The chassis will lean down slightly on the heavy side.

Do you get it? Don't do it. It is counter-productive.

I could be wrong. It does happen, just not often

Peace

Mark

OFF_sider wrote:
Mark, Now i'm understanding about the balanceing which i'm going to have to do again since i forgot about the rear pod with brushless moter . But i'm not understanding about to balance the rear pod. Hope this make sense. Here's what going to do, I'm going to take off the rear pod and just balance the main chassis. After that ,I'm replacing back the rear pod, now here where i can't understand or can't find the information completely, the rear pod itself is stll unbalance because of the brushless. My question is what do i do to take care of the rear pod balance? Does the tweaks take care of this when checking the "lifting" front and rear of car. Or (my idea) is balance the rear pod by its self by adding weights? I do need to mention, with the car loaded and ready to go and the weight i add on come out to be 868 gram. Whew.... This brushless void alot of information. If i balance front chasis alone, then add on the rear pod, there going to be alot of tweaking (one side is high and the other side going to be crank down) to get this car lift front and rear of car even. Is that going to be correct? Let me know , hopefully i'll find or learn something here. About the weight of car, you can't exceed at a certain weight or can't be lighter at what weight?
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Old 01-22-2007, 04:33 PM   #659
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and i only run 19t,
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Old 01-23-2007, 01:26 PM   #660
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Mark, you really do have enough free time, don't you?!
No but really, most of it I already read on RaceChat and it does makes sense.
When I first thought about it, I thought about placing like 10gr on the pinion side, but I couldn't figure out if that would really make a difference.
I guess you answered the question pretty much spot on and I have to thank you for that, it's always nice to read about your thoughts about these kind of things.
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