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Old 01-09-2007, 12:07 PM   #586
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where can i find the Slapmaster thrust bearing kit ?
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Old 01-09-2007, 12:13 PM   #587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
The problem with this is that the finished size of the tires (Parma, Jaco, et al) are really too thin to get an accurate reading with the durometer--you start compressing the foam against the wheel rim and this tends to cause your durometer to read high. Fronts definitely so, rears I would think likely so.
I totally agree. The closeness to the rim you mention is something I came up with a phrase for years ago and I call it "bounce". Yes the tighter the bounce, the higher the duro rating and it is kind of a false reading. IMO you have to consider both factors for it to start to be useful data. If I was going to make a real chart, I would start with new tires and cut them all to the exact same size. The higher the bounce (more rubber), you will get a wider range of instrument reading from one compound to the next.

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
I used to have a more extensive inventory but since I heve gone back to Parma rubber I haven't felt the need to experiment. Between my team mates and myself we probably have almost everything so let me know what you want to test.
Cool, thanks. I too bought all new Parma tires and after this weekend I am quite happy with them. Only had to spot glue one rear tire that lifted off the rim a bit. Now if only they made the wheels in black:>

Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple
That being said, I think focusing your attention on durometer readings is a mistake. Durometer readings do not necessarily reflect the level of grip of a tire because of the different rubber families we are dealing with. You just need to learn what the different compounds from different manufacturers do on the track. If this sounds like a lot of work, you are right, but who's afraid of that?
I understand and agree mostly. I also think that the _first_ thing to look at is tire shore range, then tire makeup. IMO you find a tire shore range, then dial it in from there. It is the "range" that I would like to nail down with numbers. A popular question I heard in the pits this weekend was "What is harder pink or grey?" and I heard the answers going either way.<LOL>

Sorry for the thread drift all, this is not CRC Gen-X content and we return you to your originally scheduled thread

My Gen-X was AWESOME this weekend. I has a lot of fun driving it even with the ride height spacer slop. Qualified 4th, finished 5th (lost it in last corner but way fun). I got _some_ of the slop out by using an old school set of white axle spacers as they were bigger. Sure glad I don't throw much away

As for the "workaround" of distorting the plastic on the RH spacers, it works for a while but then seems to mash back and get slop again.


Quote:
Originally Posted by zinger77
where can i find the Slapmaster thrust bearing kit ?
http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=4681


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
...and an ex IC 1/8 world champion but I can live with that!
Many of us western US 1/8 scale guys go to 1/12 carpet in the winter. I'm curious, who and is this a trend over there too?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
Side damping... hmmm the new GenX dampers have more clearence. You want to try the super heavy lube first (blue cap)... did that but maybe too heavy. I ended up on white cap. Now I think this is too light!!!More work is needed here.
How much lube are you putting in the tubes? IIRC the docs say to not fill the tubes up though I see a lot of Gen-X folks around here havent read that part of the docs When I feel theirs vs. mine it is a significant difference with the same lube (30,000wt Mugen) <--we're nitro guys.<LOL> The lube stays consistent from one car to the other but you can certainly alter the dampening rate based on volume of lube. Something to consider.

Last edited by fraz; 01-09-2007 at 12:32 PM.
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Old 01-09-2007, 12:21 PM   #588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zinger77
where can i find the Slapmaster thrust bearing kit ?
Ashford Hobbies or (I think still) directly from the Slap-man himself Slapmaster
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Old 01-09-2007, 12:24 PM   #589
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Default Torpedo Tube length

Just to clarify for any other interested observers, the length James gave for the Gen-X "Torpedo Tubes" is the compressed length. Add .2-.25" for the installed length in chassis.

Thanks very much James!

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Old 01-09-2007, 01:13 PM   #590
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Sorry Fraz I exaggerated!
The experienced 1/8th IC and 1/10th IC driver beating me is Mark Green
2006 European Vice-Champion 1/10th 200mm - Holland
2005 European Vice-Champion 1/10th 200mm - England
Multiple National Champion 1/8th, 1/10th 200mm
World Championship Finalist 1/8th, 1/10th 200mm

There... thats more accurate!

On the Lube, I just fill in the rings and that area of the shaft. I do not fill the tube up.

Cheers

Mark

Quote:
Originally Posted by fraz

Many of us western US 1/8 scale guys go to 1/12 carpet in the winter. I'm curious, who and is this a trend over there too?



How much lube are you putting in the tubes? IIRC the docs say to not fill the tubes up though I see a lot of Gen-X folks around here havent read that part of the docs When I feel theirs vs. mine it is a significant difference with the same lube (30,000wt Mugen) <--we're nitro guys.<LOL> The lube stays consistent from one car to the other but you can certainly alter the dampening rate based on volume of lube. Something to consider.
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:38 PM   #591
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my my cool.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:07 PM   #592
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Two Quest.
What color damper fluid should I start with on the front kingpins? What about the tubes in the rear. My "used" car came with the white cap. I fellow racer opened up a new Genx and it came with the blue cap fluid.

I purchased a set of front purple compound pro cuts at my lhs. When I mounted them I found alot of side to side play. I measured with my caliper and realized the new set had a offset compared to my other sets. Then I also realized that there was no rib on the inside where the bearings go...huh? I checked all my sets and a few of the fellow racers to confirm and all the front high rollers had the inner rib. Went back in to the lhs and found that all the purple comp. sets were like this. Checked the other compounds and they had the ribs. Is this a running change or defective batch? The offset was pretty bad. It was about 1-1.5 mm of play. The outside of the wheel were the bearing sits was too far in. I would of had to add a few shims to the one already used on the outside of the wheel bearing/nut.
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Old 01-09-2007, 09:41 PM   #593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
First run with the GenX this weekend.

I had built a T-Fource and I have been running this waiting for the GenX to arrive. Having never run T Bar I was interested to sumise the difference between CRC Link and T bar cars. I ran the TFource "ala associated", using associated T bars, front tweak screws and no side spings.

I found the Tfource car instantly likeable and driveable. It felt safe and predictable. Fine. I then proceeded to have two of the most average national meetings I have driven in the UK. The results suggest I am slower with this car.

So first run with the GenX at a regional meeting. Good carpet, same spec as our nationals are run on. I ended up on the pace. Ok, I got beat by a regular UK A finalist and an ex IC 1/8 world champion but I can live with that!

Setup lessons:
0.45 springs: Er no. The car transfers too much weight as I back off and I end up with unpredictable oversteer as I lift. We were running 19Turn. The natural breaking of the motor may be an issue and the car might not do this with a mod or brushless in it. I found 0.50 springs better on the day.

Front Spring setup.... Just (spend some time here, its a feel thing) take the slack out of the king pin and then push a single 0.10mm shim of preload in (this is a tiny tiny preload). I was running CRC super heavy lube (blue) on the pins.

Two washers back, one forward on the castor with 5 degree blocks. I did not change this. I will try 10degree but I wanted a safer car on day 1.

30 Weight oil and blue spring. I wanted to run harder (red or copper) but the track was a little bumpy. Watch out for the dura shock. Its great but I have found that as you tighten the cap, it can overcompress the O ring and the damping you get becomes a function of the cap tightness, not the oil! Back off your cap 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn and see if you are getting this issue.

No rear pod droop to 1mm... there or there abouts. White side springs.

Side damping... hmmm the new GenX dampers have more clearence. You want to try the super heavy lube first (blue cap)... did that but maybe too heavy. I ended up on white cap. Now I think this is too light!!!More work is needed here.

Tyres.. its always tyres! Well. CRC Magenta fronts (hi roller) and grey rears.

My rear brace thing (read above). Well! In the last run (final) I took it off and the car felt better! (opps) Sorry Jackh. I was changing other stuff so this may be wrong. I will take the opposite approach and get the car working without it.. then I will add the brace and report back.

Cheers

Mark (currently a little insomniac)
do you think that magenta fronts with lub on the king pins and grey rears and 30 wt oil in the shock made the car to twitchy,just asking want to know what you find with different setups.i run 45 springs in the front with no lube,red or copper spring with 20 wt oil,white side springs black white hi rollers and this seems to be very good in 19t,side springs 2 turns down then tweak.
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Old 01-09-2007, 10:15 PM   #594
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I now have 2 runs on my new Gen-X. I wanted to see how it was right out of the box so I used all of the parts that were sent including the tires. I put the 10 degree blocks on the front and the included 0.45 springs, no preload. Front caster washers were 3 forward, -2 camber and 0 toe in. Center shock filled with AE 20 wt. oil and the gold spring, just a little droop and 3mm ride height. Kit came with the Blue Tube Lube and white side springs. Side springs were just touching the rear plate. I ran the included tires. I think they are the gray rear and purple fronts. Batteries are in the forward position. I ran stock with the 19-turn class the first time out. I had too much front bite so I put on the CRC black fronts and added 1/4 turn preload to the front springs. I finished third. The next time out was at our local track. I started out the same but it was too twitchy. I put AE 0.022" front springs on with no preload. This really dialed it in! I wanted a little more turn-in so I toed it out just a little bit. That helped the turn-in but it wanted to wander down the back straight if I was off line. I TQd in stock and finished first. I replaced a CRC CK 3.1 with this car. The 3.1 was working really good but it was time for a new kit. This car seams to be more responsive to the little changes made to it. One thing that I really like is the ability to adjust the rear pivit ball tension without taking the car apart.

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Old 01-10-2007, 05:51 AM   #595
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My ebay special came with 2 springs. Copper and gold. Which one comes with the kit? I want more rear traction.
Can someone help out with some sort of list of springs and ratings?
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Old 01-10-2007, 06:40 AM   #596
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Pretty sure the gold came with the kit. Being "softer" than the copper it would **TEND** to give more rear bite (remember, soften the end you want more bite in, stiffen the end you want to take traction out of).

The VCS springs are as follows:

Black 4lb
Olive 6lb
Silver (light) 8lb
Blue 10lb
Gold 12lb
Red 14lb
Copper 16lb
Silver (heavy) Unk.--but so heavy you may as well insert a ro rather than the shock.

hth,

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Old 01-10-2007, 05:06 PM   #597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
Sorry Fraz I exaggerated!
The experienced 1/8th IC and 1/10th IC driver beating me is Mark Green
I know of Mark's driving accolades quite well and have seen plenty of footage. I haven't seen him run in person but he's certainly no slouch

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Payne
On the Lube, I just fill in the rings and that area of the shaft. I do not fill the tube up.
That is what I do too. My mind started going crazy when I felt the other guys who filled theirs up and "oozed out of the hole" as they put. Much heavier. This is could be a good way to fine tune dampening though by putting in more lube of a lighter viscosity, eh?
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Old 01-10-2007, 05:59 PM   #598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraz
That is what I do too. My mind started going crazy when I felt the other guys who filled theirs up and "oozed out of the hole" as they put. Much heavier. This is could be a good way to fine tune dampening though by putting in more lube of a lighter viscosity, eh?
I hear you.

Mark
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Old 01-11-2007, 04:43 AM   #599
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dose any one know what wt oil the blue cap lube is.
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Old 01-11-2007, 08:29 AM   #600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
dose any one know what wt oil the blue cap lube is.

Yup...according to CRC it's "Extra Heavy".
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