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Old 12-19-2006, 01:15 PM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackh
Sorry for my stupidity but is there a knotch or a mark that denotes the center line of the chassis? As for ballanceing, do you achive 50/50 by moving things around or by using your perload screws on the rear springs? And what about front to rear weight. Thanks for all the help guys.


Jack
I think the Gen-X comes with pre-drilled centerline marks. Atleast my kit did. Take a look at the front of the main chassis and the rear of the lower pod plate and you'll see the pre-drilled holes denoting the centerline of the chassis.
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:20 PM   #392
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Originally Posted by jackh
I love this car. I just have issues with it under acceleration. I cant get it to go in a straight line when I hit the gas. My car has an Associated front end and I am running a 19 turn motor, with purple fronts and gray rears. Ride is about 4 mm and the front end tweak is correct. Copper center and white rear springs. I have ordered the original front end for the car to give that a try. I am not sure what front springs are on it. When I purchased the car they were already installed. (Second hand car). The car just has way to much steering for me very quick response, Twitchy. I can get it to push by take out center spring preload however doesn't seem to make the acceleration problem go away. I have cleaned all the bearings and made sure the car rolls free. The battery is in the forward position. I am looking for any suggestions on what I can try to eliminate this problem. I must also mention I am new to 12th scale. I am used to running pan cars and my XRay TC.

Thanks for the help
Jack
try a red or blue shoch spring, i run copper to get steering but this is me and you may want to try black fronts and white or pink rears (crc) im havin probs with not enough steering oh and 30 oil in the shock, now the side springs its very important that you tweek right,try from all the way up on the screw's 3 turns down then do tweek,just like a T plate car if you unscrew the left screw a little then screw in the right the same. and see if all your wheels move freely the fronts more importantly. as for the track in the rear two washers on the spur side and one on the other these are the crc ones that come with the car,i dont know how big they are and the front track i have just one washer the car comes with 3 for each side. hope this helps somewhat.
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:23 PM   #393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
I think the Gen-X comes with pre-drilled centerline marks. Atleast my kit did. Take a look at the front of the main chassis and the rear of the lower pod plate and you'll see the pre-drilled holes denoting the centerline of the chassis.
actually it has centerline holes in the front and rear of the man chassis... AND the front and rear of the rear pod (four holes)
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:27 PM   #394
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Thanks to you all for the help. I think I now have a better chance to get the can right, well at least better. Then all I have to do is work on the driver .
I really like this class and I hope to get alot better. It is no fun when you finish 20 laps off the pace. I could live with 4 or 5 but not 20.

All for now
Jack
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Old 12-19-2006, 01:31 PM   #395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akura2
actually it has centerline holes in the front and rear of the man chassis... AND the front and rear of the rear pod (four holes)
yep there there, check the rear pod after you tighten the football (usa) to see if the pod and the chassis are inline, tighten the football like in the book then check
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Old 12-19-2006, 03:35 PM   #396
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I would try running pink rears. Your grays probably are spinning alot unless your track has really good bite. Once they start spinning, any other minor issue is magnified. Stickier rears will make the car less twitchy as well. Try a softer center spring (maybe a red).

James
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Old 12-19-2006, 05:30 PM   #397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa G
Which shims are you using to adjust rear track width?
CRC makes a nice set of 1/4 axel shims. I also have some wider ones from oval racing if needed.
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Old 12-19-2006, 09:38 PM   #398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grenade10
CRC makes a nice set of 1/4 axel shims. I also have some wider ones from oval racing if needed.
Do you have a part # for the shims?

Thanks
Gael
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Old 12-19-2006, 10:13 PM   #399
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Honestly.

I went to the CRC site and entered "shim".

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4732

There you have 'em.
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Old 12-19-2006, 10:14 PM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killa G
Do you have a part # for the shims?

Thanks
Gael
CRC shims at Ashford Hobby

CRC 4730 1/8 x .005 Shim Set (20)
CRC 4731 1/8 x .010 Shim Set (20)
CRC 4732 1/4 Shim Set (20)
CRC 4734 4mm Axle Shim Set (20)
CRC 4735 5mm Axle Shim Set (20)
CRC 4736 6mm Axle Shim Set (20)
CRC 4737 7mm Axle Shim Set (20)
CRC 4738 8mm Axle Shim Set (20)
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Old 12-20-2006, 03:29 AM   #401
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the shims that come with the car give the car max legal width. i cant tell what they are right now cuz i need a new bat for my caliper's,
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Old 12-20-2006, 06:46 AM   #402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottrik
Honestly.

I went to the CRC site and entered "shim".

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...od&prodID=4732

There you have 'em.
I saw those but wanted to confirm that they are the right ones.

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2006, 08:14 AM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
the shims that come with the car give the car max legal width. i cant tell what they are right now cuz i need a new bat for my caliper's,
That's a pretty broad statement. They might give you proper width if you're using the kit wheels, but you'll likely not be using Jaco, TRC, etc wheels/tires and I'll bet money you're 1/4"-ish narrow if you're using Parma wheels/tires...

Scottrik
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Old 12-20-2006, 08:18 AM   #404
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I hope this is obvious but the clamping hub is two sided and has a different off set depending on how it is installed.
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Old 12-20-2006, 08:54 AM   #405
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Originally Posted by rpoage
I hope this is obvious but the clamping hub is two sided and has a different off set depending on how it is installed.
Yeah, but I find going to the "wider" side is more than what I need on the left, and does nothing to address the right. Bring on the shims. I've been really happy with the 1/4" id shims I got from Murdock. Nifty cad (or some such) plating so they look cool too. For shims.

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