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Old 11-09-2006, 09:45 AM   #121
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For the benefit of newer racers reading this.... the upgrades talked about on this thread recently are NOT necessary for newer racers. I've been in the sport about a year and would like the sintered rotor and ceramic bearings...etc, but it really wouldn't do much for me... someday maybe. I had about a 10 min run last night and the motor and esc temped out at 120 degrees. I am getting slightly pulled on the straight by two RDX's but I'm sure most of that has to do with weight since I'm running a Cyclone S. I probably should be running the 13.5 but it wasn't available when I got my 4300. If you are new the 4300 has plenty of power for you in box stock form.

By all means lets keep talking about everything discussed here but I just want to voice the true cost savings of Brushless/Lipo. It is more expensive to get started but if you have done Brushed/Nimh and switched you know it is less expensive overall. This is a hard point to get across to newbies but I think it is a point we should stress!
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Old 11-09-2006, 01:08 PM   #122
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This formula is golden, I think I may try and adapt something like this at Tamiya on the weekends. Anyone living in SoCal area with a Tamiya TC car PM me if you would like to see weekly fun races using 4300 BL Motors and Li-Po
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:07 PM   #123
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I want to race in the 19T class but what I've heard on our track the 4300 fall behind on the straightaway (stock rotor, endbell, GTB ESC, NiMH cells).
I think if I buy all the upgrades and the sphere competition (which allows to gear higher as I understand) and toss in a LiPo then the slight advantage of the 19T may be gone. Does this make any sense?

Im doing this because I'm tired of cutting comms but that is just one thing. At our track racers like to try new things and I believe if they see me keeping up with the rest they will consider the change as well. Then we will have a more leveled playing field and a bunch of happy people
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Old 11-09-2006, 02:12 PM   #124
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One more thing just to clarify what we are talking about regarding to upgrade the 4300:

is this the sintered rotor I want?:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNLZ1&P=7

Which endbell do I need for the 4300 and the sintered rotor?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ll&FVPROFIL=++

Yeah it was a shock for me that my LHS carries the 4300 for 80 but that is the case
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Old 11-09-2006, 04:23 PM   #125
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Default 4300 to upgrade or not?

1/10 oval racers were some of the first to embrace the BL into racing. i saw alot of the 4300 progession as it came along and asked alot of questions.

4300 no mods vs 19T....in 4 minute races the 19T's tend to rule, but in 5 minute races the 4300 becomes equal with the 19T.

4300 with just the upgrade kit vs 19T, pretty much even over 4 minutes with the 19T having more speed for the first minutes, 5 minute race the 19T falls off bad and this is where the 4300 kicks butt in the last minute.

4300 with sintered arm, ribbed endbell (more cooling and weighs less) vs 19T, no use running a 19T. one racer at out track who has just done these mods, has uped the track record in 4300 by one lap...2 weeks in a row. he has also got the other 4300 drivers (includes one who previously held the record) who haven't upgraded scrambling.........cha...ching
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Old 11-09-2006, 06:20 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cvt01
I think if I buy all the upgrades and the sphere competition (which allows to gear higher as I understand).....
NOT TRUE. The Sphere doesn't have thermal protection! It will let you gear high enough to smoke the motor!

Don't be fooled by this rumor. The GTB is the safe route to go. With the sintered rotor you can overgear but no thermals...

But it should be noted that with these motors, overgearing isn't going to help you win races. Car setup and driving skill will win every time.

People need to realize that brushless is a whole new ballgame. The option to "gear up" to try to compete with another guys better batteries is worthless in the brushless game.

We are thinking of going mandatory LiPo in the class to even things up even more. As it is now, a guy with "sponsored" batteries has more power. We are trying to EVEN the field, completely.

If the day comes when we can have racing on par with a NASCAR or F1 event, i.e. the top 10 drivers are seperated by less than 3 seconds, we will truly see some FUN and COMPETITVE racing.
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Old 11-09-2006, 07:38 PM   #127
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Thanks that's why I asked

So according to fast-ho-cars response thats what I should buy:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNLZ1&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMGJ4&P=7
Could somebody confirm that those are direct fit in the 4300 before I go out and buy stuff.

I know that this wont win races but to have a chance to keep up with the rest your equipment should be equal and then you can't blame anything else but your setup and driving skills if you suck...

There is a strong advantage of the Sphere over the GTB: it has built in low voltage cut-off
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Old 11-09-2006, 08:48 PM   #128
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Yep, those are the parts you want.
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Old 11-10-2006, 05:59 AM   #129
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ok guys quick question im asking for a racer friend whos having problems.

We race on carpet on foams, running xray T2 with Novak 3.5 with 4800Lipo. Final drive gearing of 11.8 we are getting thermals at about 4 and half mins.

The gearing is getting into silly high numbers and yet its still getting too hot. Do you have any advice for cooling or running with lipos?


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Old 11-10-2006, 07:56 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleighty
ok guys quick question im asking for a racer friend whos having problems.

We race on carpet on foams, running xray T2 with Novak 3.5 with 4800Lipo. Final drive gearing of 11.8 we are getting thermals at about 4 and half mins.

The gearing is getting into silly high numbers and yet its still getting too hot. Do you have any advice for cooling or running with lipos?


cheers
Replace the rotor. Once the stock rotor thermals, it will continue to do so. Each time it thermals will be sooner than the last.

Also, you should go with the sintered rotor. It runs cooler and has a much better resistance to thermaling.

Lastly, check the drag brake, some guys will run a bunch of it as it makes the motor feel more like a brushed motor, but you are just adding reverse polarity and that builds heat quick.

Good Luck
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Old 11-10-2006, 08:38 AM   #131
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Doesn't the 3.5 already have the sintered rotor?
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Old 11-10-2006, 08:46 AM   #132
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oops. I thought I saw 13.5 NOT 3.5.

Yes, already sintered. In that case, I'm a bit short on knowledge.

When in doubt, email Charlie at Novak. [email protected]
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Old 11-10-2006, 11:13 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreqETag
We are thinking of going mandatory LiPo in the class to even things up even more. As it is now, a guy with "sponsored" batteries has more power. We are trying to EVEN the field, completely.
Wonder who that could be?
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Old 11-10-2006, 12:42 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreqETag
We are thinking of going mandatory LiPo in the class to even things up even more. As it is now, a guy with "sponsored" batteries has more power. We are trying to EVEN the field, completely.
Rather than force people into LiPo, maybe we should consider lowering the weight requirement for the class instead. That way, we're emphasizing the strength of LiPo (its weight) rather than its "weakness," in that it doesn't have quite the same peak voltage as a new 4200 pack. The reduced weight should even things out, and also cut down on tire wear.
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:08 PM   #135
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Just an update and a request....

Update: I finally found the top end of the gearing range for the 4300. Once you hit it, you get this interesting lag or pause when coming out of the turns. I'll credit syndr0me for clueing me in as to what it was. I thought my diff was slipping. Wild. Ok, time to gear down a half a tooth

Request:

I'd like to see if we can find out who all is running 4300 Touring classes around the country. Feel free to chime in. Also like to know what kind of numbers you are getting for turnout. Lastly, details such as LiPo or Foam.

I am going to try to get the ball rolling to get us either an "official" class or "informal" class that would have a set of rules and would hopefully clear up some confusion and get more tracks accustomed to allowing it.

Once we can get this going, I'd love to see us start a points series, with maybe a finals race here in the midwest sometime in Feb. - Mar.

Thanks!
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