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Checkpoint 19t Problem

Checkpoint 19t Problem

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Old 10-23-2006, 07:59 AM
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Been running a checkpoint Money motor in my 1/12th no problem, exactly how it came with the '4 cell' brushes in it. Decided at the weekend to try the silver infinity brushes in it and it was fine but lacked some punch so decided to put the other brushes back in.

I put it on my Robitronic Overloader to check it was running ok and at 2v it was only pulling 3A and sounded slow. (it was pulling about 7-7.5A before). So I decided to give it a skim and put some brand new brushes in, still only pulling 3.5A. Whats going wrong?
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Old 10-23-2006, 09:21 AM
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you need to check to see if the shimming is too tight and maybe put in a silver spring on the positive side. since the money comes with med springs on both neg and pos. or just put in a new set of med springs on both the neg and pos side since springs do get soft after a lil while. everytime i run a check point i chang the springs alot. make sure that the comm is completely round and you are breaking it in properly cuz infinity brushes take for ever to break in i break mine in at 2v for 10min. hope this helps.
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Old 10-23-2006, 12:50 PM
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I've took one of the shims out so there is now a bit of play, now pulling 5A, still not as high as it was though. What springs are recommended for 4 cell 1/12 racing?
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Old 10-23-2006, 01:27 PM
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With new infinity brushes and a skimmed comm, you need to break it it like at 1 volt for like 10-15 min, they take a while to break in. Dont ust put new brushes in and run it in the car, most likely burn teh brushes.
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Old 10-23-2006, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rbecking
I've took one of the shims out so there is now a bit of play, now pulling 5A, still not as high as it was though. What springs are recommended for 4 cell 1/12 racing?
I WOULD THINK YOU NEED THE LIGHTEST SPRINGS THEY MAKE THE INFINITI BRUSHES NEED A LONG TIME TO BREK IN 15 TO 20 MINUTES AT 2V
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Old 10-23-2006, 02:45 PM
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I've not got the infinity brushes in now, I've got the gold 4 cell brushes in.
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Old 10-23-2006, 03:18 PM
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I put it on my Robitronic Overloader to check it was running ok and at 2v it was only pulling 3A and sounded slow. (it was pulling about 7-7.5A before). So I decided to give it a skim and put some brand new brushes in, still only pulling 3.5A. Whats going wrong?

You can't tell how a motor is going to run by amp draw. That was a trick that the oval crowd was trying. In fact, in 1/12 scale, less is better. That's why they install lighter springs for 1/12 scale, to make run time. This reduces drag, which reduces amp draw. Checkpoint makes a spring lighter than the gold. Try to get a pair of those.
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Old 10-23-2006, 04:21 PM
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just run it , amp draw doesnt mean anything. The more I run my checkpoint motors the faster they get..
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Old 10-23-2006, 04:35 PM
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Buy a k-19 and your problems will be solved!
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Old 10-23-2006, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rbecking
Been running a checkpoint Money motor in my 1/12th no problem, exactly how it came with the '4 cell' brushes in it. Decided at the weekend to try the silver infinity brushes in it and it was fine but lacked some punch so decided to put the other brushes back in.

I put it on my Robitronic Overloader to check it was running ok and at 2v it was only pulling 3A and sounded slow. (it was pulling about 7-7.5A before). So I decided to give it a skim and put some brand new brushes in, still only pulling 3.5A. Whats going wrong?
About the problem when you put the original brushes back into the motor... I'd bet that they got "swapped" from + to -... Even though the hoods are very precise in their alignment, nothing is perfect, and the brushes have some play in the hoods (so they don't bind). The net effecti is that the brushes (if swapped sides) will no longer be properly seated -- they will, in fact be much farther off than new brushes. That means only one edge of the brush is probably making contact, so there is very low amp draw. Next time you want to "save" brushes to reinstall, use Red and Black "Sharpie" markers to mark the shunts (red for +, black for -, just like the brush caps) -- that way you can put them back in the correct sides....

As to the new brushes, as others have pointed out, they can take time to "seat"... Infinity brushes especially. The low amp draw again indicates that the brushes are not fully seated -- you want to see the brushes become polished so that the serrations touch from one side all the way to the other...
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