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Old 02-12-2003, 04:30 PM   #1
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Default HPI Pro2 going in trash

I have been racing onroad for about 7 years now. I started with an HPI Sport. I now have an HPI Pro2. I am ready to trash it unless someone here has some good ideas. Mechanically I have the least amount of steering I can get, and the softest rear setup I can put in. The car hooks going into the slightest corner. Even the best drivers at my track have helped. This car is crap. Even when they put their tires on it, place their setups on it etc, etc. even they cant get it to corner without hooking. Anyone have any ideas besides trashing the car and buying something else?
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Old 02-12-2003, 04:54 PM   #2
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Is there any binding in the drivetrain? Suspension? Do you have excessive amounts of play in your steering and tunbuckles? I ran a pro 2 for a couple years and it was a very easy to drive reliable car. I would reccomend dissasembling the car, double checking all the parts for excessive wear or breakage. What is your current setup?
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Old 02-12-2003, 05:56 PM   #3
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send it to me
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Old 02-12-2003, 06:02 PM   #4
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1. binding
2 tweeeeked from here to new york
3. to soft a setup
4. need a pro3
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Old 02-12-2003, 08:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by HYDRAMATIC99
Is there any binding in the drivetrain? Suspension? Do you have excessive amounts of play in your steering and tunbuckles? I ran a pro 2 for a couple years and it was a very easy to drive reliable car. I would reccomend dissasembling the car, double checking all the parts for excessive wear or breakage. What is your current setup?
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Old 02-12-2003, 08:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by HYDRAMATIC99
Is there any binding in the drivetrain? Suspension? Do you have excessive amounts of play in your steering and tunbuckles? I ran a pro 2 for a couple years and it was a very easy to drive reliable car. I would reccomend dissasembling the car, double checking all the parts for excessive wear or breakage. What is your current setup?
All good questions: In short the car hs been dissasembled and reassembled by two of the hottest drivers at our track. No binding at all in drivetrain or suspension, no excessive wear and no broken parts. Even after the two rebuilds even those two drivers would have to 'nurse' it around the track to keep from hooking. One guy even kept it for two weeks trying all his tricks to get it to stop hooking, with no success. He even tried his tires and radio system in it. Right now I have it the best I can get it thus: Front/ 70wt oil in shocks, purple sway bar. stiffest Associated springs for sedans, shock locations as far out and upright as they can be.
Rear/ 20 wt oil in shocks, they are layed down as far as they can be, no sway bar, stock HPI silver springs. Ride height is 4mm front to back.weight is 40% front 60% rear/50% right to left ANY suggestions would be helpful. Thanks AP
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Old 02-12-2003, 08:42 PM   #7
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something has to be binding somewhere. Try going back to the kit setup and starting over.
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Old 02-12-2003, 08:46 PM   #8
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heres an idea. use all the same weight oils on all shocks(or slightly heavier weight on the rear, like 70 front and 80 rear), use stiffer springs on the rear than the front, and put the hardest sway bars you can find and put them on the rear: make it a drift car.
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Old 02-12-2003, 08:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by newracer
something has to be binding somewhere. Try going back to the kit setup and starting over.
forget my idea, do that instead.
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Old 02-12-2003, 11:19 PM   #10
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Make sure all your bearings are clean and free. Do you have the same pistons in each end of the car? I had good luck with the hpi yellow and white progressive springs but that was outdoor and from your setup I assume you are running on carpet. Try the same weight shock oil and same springs on the car to see if that helps. What is your camber and caster setup? Make sure you have the shocks equall lenght on each end of the car. Is your car tweaked?
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Old 02-12-2003, 11:56 PM   #11
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Default ONE-WAYS?

Does your car have one ways on it? I had a similar experience on my Pro2 a long time ago. Couldn't work out what it was until I replaced a faulty one-way pulley. When a one-way starts to fail, you can't immeidately notice it - ie it won't just rotate freely in both directions. Anyway, worth having a look...
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:02 AM   #12
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It could be that youve oversoftened the rear end. Try going back to the kit setup.

I kjnow that all the adjustments work to a point, then they do the opposite when you go too far.
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:35 AM   #13
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Your setup is far too imbalanced front to rear - if that's what the hot drivers suggested, I wouldn't say they were that hot - go back to the kit settings, or stiffen the rear to a similar degree to the front.

If the car still doesn't work, get rid of it. The cars aren't built like a Volvo, so you can't expect a million trouble free miles from it. There may be dozens of worn parts, that you can't quite see individually, that add up to a problem car.
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by HYDRAMATIC99
Make sure all your bearings are clean and free. Do you have the same pistons in each end of the car? I had good luck with the hpi yellow and white progressive springs but that was outdoor and from your setup I assume you are running on carpet. Try the same weight shock oil and same springs on the car to see if that helps. What is your camber and caster setup? Make sure you have the shocks equall lenght on each end of the car. Is your car tweaked?
Actually we run on prepared concrete, however the car demonstrates the same hooking if driven on asphalt, prepared concrete, or carpet. Thats why its so baffiling. Caster is set up at 8 degrees and I have tried from 0 to 2 degrees of camber in 1/2 degree increments. Rear toe is 2 degrees right now but I have tried 0 1 and now 2 degrees. You all have had really good ideas and thanks for the input. I will be rebuilding the car one more time tonight, going with the kit setup, but if it does not work this Saturday I know where the closest trash can is. The car has been raced a total of 12 times even by other drivers, rebuilt by other drivers in the club, checked by the 1/12th scale guys for tweek on their boards, shocks are all the same and I have tried oil from 20 to 80 wt in all combinations front to rear. I do not run a one-way. So here I am, with a car which I paid a lot for that can't be driven. It seems as if it has an evil spirit about it. Any other input would be great guys. THANKS AP
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:21 AM   #15
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That's very strange. The Pro2 was one of the best running cars I've ever owned and I think it runs better than the Pro3. Start with Thad Garner's Stock Asphalt setup. It's a very good base setup. Rebuild your diffs and make sure they're clean and free. Set them up as loose as you can without them slipping and start to tighten the front in small increments until the front end starts pulling the rear around the turns. When the car swaps ends, usually there is binding or massive weight unloading onto the front end of the car. Set your rear droop somewhere around 4mm to start. Also, there should never be a situation where you can't make a oversteer or understeer.
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