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Old 02-16-2003, 08:45 PM   #31
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What about your esc and motor setup? Maybe you have too much drag brake causing the back wheels to lock up? Just another idea before you completly give up on the car.
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Old 02-16-2003, 09:13 PM   #32
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It is weir that a pro2 cannot run well especially after national level driver looked into it. Even a tamiya stock ta04 can run really well on track. If the problem still exist after so many people's help, a new car may not be the solution, the same problem may come up again.

I personally run a pro2 it run pretty sweet, the major problem is parts availbility. However, it rarely break.
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Old 02-16-2003, 09:14 PM   #33
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There are currently 3 Pro2's and a Sport 2 running in our club and they are kicking ass, all with basically kit settings with minor tuning to suit our track

With all due respect to all the people who have worked on your car, they have simply missed something... a car cannot handle THAT badly and NOT show a physical sign as to why... and forget all the hocus pocus crap about possesed cars and bs trying to blame the problem on HPI and make them out to be some big rip-off merchants.... the pro2 is THE most used and probably the most loved car for its ease of setup and performance in the WORLD, and you don't earn a reputation like that by accident... but HPI aren't perfect and faulty parts might have slipped through the quality control as happens to everyone (Yokomo, Associated, Trinity, Picco, Neo, Losi and Corally to name some brands of which I have personal experence)

start looking harder... someone is over looking something... shocks and oil aren't the problem... thats blindingly obvious if you've tried so many setups... as long as you've only changed ONE at a time that is

I had a Picco Circuit Car that had a similar sounding problem... it was traced to the chassis... the holes for the suspension mounts were not square front to rear... but it took ages to find... I ended up sitting down with an engineers ruler and about 5 hours of time measuring everything
I have also seen a Corally 4.1 do something similar and it was traced to a bearing in the diff that was seizing up but ONLY when going around corners because of the different pressures it was exposed to.. out of the car it felt fine, but once in and under pressure it seized EVERY time

is the chassis straight? not tweaked or split or anything? are the mounting holes straight?

have you physically checked all the components for signs of imperfections against another Pro2 that DOESN'T have the problem?

have you checked thrust bearings and diff rings... these parts are quite often overlooked simply because its impossible to actually SEE anything wrong
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Old 02-17-2003, 03:09 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally posted by ShadowAu
.... the pro2 is THE most used and probably the most loved car for its ease of setup and performance in the WORLD, and you don't earn a reputation like that by accident...

start looking harder... someone is over looking something... shocks and oil aren't the problem... thats blindingly obvious if you've tried so many setups... as long as you've only changed ONE at a time that is
Listen to ShadowAu
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Old 02-17-2003, 03:11 AM   #35
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Whith all respect, something has been overseen.

Do you use the rear wing? What about the body? I had a body once, that caused excatly this problem.
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Old 02-17-2003, 03:39 AM   #36
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Are you using the foam bumper? Sometimes they go loose and can cause a wheel lock, when wheels are turned the most.
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Old 02-17-2003, 06:42 AM   #37
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This is really really distressing.

Listen to ShadowAu and Cole ... They are right something is over looked.

I am still trying to find more information about your problem. So that I can get closer to giving you a solution.

When it spins does it spin in the same direction ? Say if you are going into a right hander the car spins clock wise ? Or when you go in a left turn it goes counter clockwise ? Are you spinning out at the same speed in both directions of a turn ? ... Does this happen at all speeds entering turns ?

Another set of questions ... How is your straight line acceleration? Standing starts, Rolling Starts, at speed Acelleration ?? Does it seems sluggish ?

I have a couple of Ideas ... but I need one last bit of information. Could you post a full setup of you car... Exclude shocks / oils since I think we can all rule this out, But put them in so that we know what your ride hieght is, include any hop-ups that you have... Eye Candy and Performance parts. Body type, Wheels tires, diff tightnes ... Every thing ... CVD's, one ways, ETC. If there have been any conversions to the car, chassis posts, turnbuckles instead of upper arms, handling kit, etc ... Also the history of the Car... was this a new kit or was it purchased used. Oh also Motor, Gearing, ESC setup

That being said a quick test that you can do is ... reverse your diffs ... move your front to the rear and rear to the front... Does the problem persist? My gut is telling me that your front Diff nut is stripped causing you diff to unload on you. Or you have a blown front CVD. It sounds like you aren't getting any power to your front wheels while you are turning. Well not no power ... just really incosistant. Your symptoms sound like you have a one way in the car. And if this car was used it might be a topshaft oneway which can be missed.

Those are gut reactions.

C
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Old 02-17-2003, 10:27 AM   #38
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My question is this - How old is the car? And has it always had this problem?

If it's your second car in seven years, I'd guess you've been running it for about 3 years (it's not been in production for about 2 years).

If you've had three good years racing out of it, but can't get it to work now, say goodbye to it, and buy a new car - don't blame HPI.
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Old 02-17-2003, 11:05 AM   #39
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i'm new to the hobby, so if my suggestions sounds out of wack. please bare with it.

do you have a one-way pulley or a front one-way installed on your car?

could it be that the front one-way is locking up while cornering?

front/rear belt may be slipping?


Good Luck with the car!
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Old 02-17-2003, 11:29 PM   #40
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hey i have pro2 that actually doesnt have enough steering, it is the fastest stock class car out there, but sometimes it wont steer enough. i think i can help you out email me at for more on my setup

Last edited by rcjoe; 07-10-2007 at 03:12 AM.
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Old 02-17-2003, 11:46 PM   #41
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Hmm. This sounds very stange. I borrowed one from a racin buddy of mine for a while and it totally ruled. It was very neutral with just enough oversteer to get through the tight track. I used a setup That I saw one of the team drivers had and it worked liek a charm. I'm stumped, because everyone else has already asked all the things I would ask.
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Old 02-18-2003, 06:42 AM   #42
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AP,

Send me the car, I will get it hooked up for ya :>.
I have had multiple Pro 2's and they have been great. Actually looking for another one for the HPI challenge this year.
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Old 02-22-2003, 03:08 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by LaxRacer
This is really really distressing.

Listen to ShadowAu and Cole ... They are right something is over looked.

I am still trying to find more information about your problem. So that I can get closer to giving you a solution.

When it spins does it spin in the same direction ? Say if you are going into a right hander the car spins clock wise ? Or when you go in a left turn it goes counter clockwise ? Are you spinning out at the same speed in both directions of a turn ? ... Does this happen at all speeds entering turns ?

Another set of questions ... How is your straight line acceleration? Standing starts, Rolling Starts, at speed Acelleration ?? Does it seems sluggish ?

I have a couple of Ideas ... but I need one last bit of information. Could you post a full setup of you car... Exclude shocks / oils since I think we can all rule this out, But put them in so that we know what your ride hieght is, include any hop-ups that you have... Eye Candy and Performance parts. Body type, Wheels tires, diff tightnes ... Every thing ... CVD's, one ways, ETC. If there have been any conversions to the car, chassis posts, turnbuckles instead of upper arms, handling kit, etc ... Also the history of the Car... was this a new kit or was it purchased used. Oh also Motor, Gearing, ESC setup

That being said a quick test that you can do is ... reverse your diffs ... move your front to the rear and rear to the front... Does the problem persist? My gut is telling me that your front Diff nut is stripped causing you diff to unload on you. Or you have a blown front CVD. It sounds like you aren't getting any power to your front wheels while you are turning. Well not no power ... just really incosistant. Your symptoms sound like you have a one way in the car. And if this car was used it might be a topshaft oneway which can be missed.

Those are gut reactions.

Ok, you have come up with a couple things I honestly havent looked at. I will check them out and report back. We didn't race today so I'll let you know the results later. I will be disassembling the car this week and will measure everything and check for it being square. As to set up right now it is as follows: No one way diffs, bearings, shafts, etc, at all. Everything is stock out of the box brand new. The car has been raced only about 18 times total, so there is no detectable wear. Stock out of the box with 40 wt oil in the front, and 30 wt in the rear. No sway bars ( actually becomes worse with them ) See past posts for all the setups tried, and yes they were tried one at a time. Ride height is set at 5mm and droop is 5mm. The car will spin both on power and off power if going into a corner at anything but slow speeds at all. It spins in the direction of the corner, and actually the point in the corner where it starts to spin varies with the speed. It "feels" like it reaches a point where the front wheels just have all the raction depending on the speed. I have a Fusion speed control and use a 3003 steering servo, although I have had other drivers in the club loan me different servos trying to fix the problem. Straight line acceleration, standing still or rolling is quick and straight, no torque steer at all. On the straights it handles fine, responsive ,quick, predictable, all the good stuff. The last idea I had was that somehow the ackerman angle was off. I have it set according to the kit instructions but was thinking of changing it to see if that would help. Pointing the "outer" wheel straighter might help. Any more ides are emost welcome.

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Old 02-22-2003, 04:33 PM   #44
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Ok ... if you are ripping the car apart ... check your bearings again .... specifically the ones near your diffs, also check the ones at your axles ... but I don't think its your bearings.

I think problem is your diff. If you have the time switch it with the rear one and run the car. If you have the money get a whole new diff. To test since its a pain to get to the rear diff. With out knowing your rebuilding practice, if you have ripped your diffs apart and not replaced the diff nut thats the problem.

Since its consistent in spinning out in both directions and at speed it really sounds like the diff.

I need clarification on your droop setting ... Is 5 mm saying you have 5 mm of droop or 0 mm of droop since you have a 5mm ride height ? Its an often miscommunictated setup setting.

Now setup stuff that you can do while the car is open ... Go one spring rate softer in the rear, go a 1 mm to 2 mm lower on the car all the way around, if you track can handle it (I have found that the Pro2 hates being high) Up front try going with 0 or -1 of toe, Enough camber for even tire wear. Camber links hub side high, chassis side low. Shocks set for you driving style. In the Rear, go with -1 toe blocks, put your Camber links at there hightest mounting locations. shocks set to your driving style, also make sure you rear hubs are in the bottom hole. I once put the car back together wrong and put them in the top hole by accident.

how are you settin your ride height ??? Don't use the tweek screws to set ride hieght , and try not having too much preload on you springs, especially if you are using HPI springs. If you have the money Get Xray springs, for the New Xray shocks, not the Serpent shocks.

IF you can get your hands on some of those cone washers ... install them under the rear bulkead, it works the same as the handling kit, it will change the rear roll chacteristics.

Try finding Dr. Diffs Web page, and try some of those setups.

You might want to do the Camber link conversion, look at Thads car on the HPI website. Or if you search around you can find pictures of Hara's car that he was using before the Pro3 was released, he only ran the pro2 like twice, but his setup is interesting.

Hopefully that helps, and gives you alot to think about.

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Old 02-23-2003, 05:24 AM   #45
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However, it doesn't sounds like it the setup.

I would also say, checks those diffs.

Which body are you running? The HPI Audi Avant? If it's the Avant, then drop it. It causes excatly your problem.

Also check the steering for bindings. The ball ends (Z137) tends to go loose, causing binding.
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