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Old 02-13-2003, 09:32 AM   #16
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Go back to the stock settings. I tried to dial out some oversteer in my Losi and ended up with a big front sway bar, super soft rear springs and stiff front springs. The oversteer got worse so I went to stiff rear springs and a stightly softer front springs and this cured the oversteer, I actually had some understeer. Sometimes you can go too far off with settings and the car will behave very oddly.
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Old 02-13-2003, 12:51 PM   #17
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Originally posted by rod_b
That's very strange. The Pro2 was one of the best running cars I've ever owned and I think it runs better than the Pro3. Start with Thad Garner's Stock Asphalt setup. It's a very good base setup. Rebuild your diffs and make sure they're clean and free. Set them up as loose as you can without them slipping and start to tighten the front in small increments until the front end starts pulling the rear around the turns. When the car swaps ends, usually there is binding or massive weight unloading onto the front end of the car. Set your rear droop somewhere around 4mm to start. Also, there should never be a situation where you can't make a oversteer or understeer.
Thanks, I'll try this set up, although looking back over my notes I have one that is very simular. Only difference is ride height 4.5 mm front and 5.0mm rear and shock oil .5 weight higher at each end. Thnaks for the input. AP
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Old 02-13-2003, 01:06 PM   #18
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AP,

Where do you race? I'd love to get a look at this car if we're near each other.

T
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Old 02-13-2003, 02:11 PM   #19
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weird. my friend came out a few weeks ago with his pro 2. oddly enough, the same thing was going on. stiffened the front, toed it in up front, locked the pulley down. nothing. still the same hook you describe. i built it this past summer, and it was not binding and all was balanced. we checked tweak, all those issues. though we haven't tried a variety of setups, i blamed it on a low end radio. no epa's, yada yada.

it was crazy to read your post. that's how we felt...like what the h? so i gave him my corally c4.1 and the hpi is history. infact the auction just ended last night on it. hehe. i'm not saying that it can't handle well, just that we didn't have the patience.

on carpet, most of us end up with even stiffness f/r or stiffer in the rear. if your weight balance is really 40/60 i think that may be the issue. i've never heard of more than 45/55 and usually much closer to 50/50. with a light front end, the car will have tons of initial steering since it will be easier to break from the inertial effects of going straight. this can cause the rear to step out due to the quick movement. with that much weight in the rear, once it goes, it will continue to do so. kind of the oposite of what's going on in the front. i guess it comes down to the momentum effects of the weight discrepancy. really though, even a 40/60 car should be able to be made to handle well. but since you've tried everything else, why not that? shift the batteries up a slot...even if you have to cut another one. that will make a huge difference. your setup will be very different as the weight distribution comes closer to even. sounds like that overstiff front setup wants a front heavy car to work well with.

well, good luck. you'll find it.
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:03 PM   #20
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I agree with what was said above. Go with the stock setup and make sure your diffs are set properly!!. I had a pro2 a few years back and I loved it. I ran very close to the stock steup. I use to whip many street weapons with it. The only reason I got rid of it was it was a hassle to work on. Especially the diffs to get to them. In my opion I would still take the pro2 over the pro3
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Old 02-14-2003, 01:49 PM   #21
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If you are running the stiffest springs you can find on the front, that is you problem. Although it should cause the front to push, being stiff causes the front to react very quickly to any inputs causing it to be very twitchy and uncontrollable. Install your kit springs back on the front Also put thinner shock oil in, maybe 30 weight, because thicker shock oil also quickens response. And let us know how that works.
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Old 02-14-2003, 02:12 PM   #22
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ap--
HPI used to sell something like a "handling kit" or something like that. It looked like they chopped off the rear end of a chassis. Basicall, this raises the mounting of the rear suspension. Raising the inner mount points usually will increase traction in the middle of the corner.

A friend of mine put one on his Pro 2 and said it was like a different car. The one thing about that car was to make it steer, you usually had to make it somewhat loose. Apparently, this tended to fix that problem.
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Old 02-14-2003, 07:21 PM   #23
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Default PRO 2 HELP.

I ran a pro 2 for 3 years.. and had great results.. especially for outdoor... mainly running the car in stock form with the help of associated springs. Usually ran purples and reds..or coppers and reds, heavier shock oil.. slightly higher than 30 wt. possible 60wt. Only ran yellow springs on indoor carpet.

As someone posted and recommended, try running the stock setup again.. i think #3 pistons. with 30 wt. and stock slilver springs.. associated silver will do.. Make sure the diffs operate properly. Heavier setup on the front will tend to make the front react faster and the rear will not keep up.

Loose the eye candy on the car.. and the optional roll center was never needed or tried on my car.

BTW. the screws on the arms are for droop not for ride height.. some do think its for ride height.. just set the screws evenly for now.

let us know how the car works.. Good luck.. i actually was looking at my Pro2 as i was typing this post.
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Old 02-15-2003, 09:35 AM   #24
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Default pro 2

Quote:
In short the car hs been dissasembled and reassembled by two of the hottest drivers at our track
yea but are they good drivers? HAHA! sometimes i cant get over how funny i am....

anyway....the pro 2 should be able to perform just as good as most cars out there. i agree with pretty much everything already said...go to the standard setup (theres this little part in the manual that says "when all else fails, go back to the kit settings" or at least that should be in there ) and also i agree that ur setup now is too different from front to rear. there is such a thing as too soft and too hard. try going with a more even setup, with a stiffer front. if that doesn't work u might try running a stiffer rear and a soft front...ive seen that setup work on losi's. hope you get it running.
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Old 02-15-2003, 09:58 AM   #25
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Default put thinner shock oil in,

Quote:
Originally posted by michael b
If you are running the stiffest springs you can find on the front, that is you problem. Although it should cause the front to push, being stiff causes the front to react very quickly to any inputs causing it to be very twitchy and uncontrollable. Install your kit springs back on the front Also put thinner shock oil in, maybe 30 weight, because thicker shock oil also quickens response. And let us know how that works.
This is the same thing that I have found when going to Heavier / stiffer. Funny thing is, I have had PRO/Sponsered drivers tell me heavier oil and springs will slow the reaction of that end of the car down, but I find it to be the exact opposite. Heavy oil. the car reacts VERY quickly to input changes. Same thing happens as you increase spring rates, so it is always a balance between Car, Driver and Track that is needed.

AP;

Is it possible that your tires are providing TOO much grip. When you say "Hooking", I take it to mean the car is grabbing suddenly and flipping over. OR are you talking about the rear end coming around at Mid-corner. HPI cars will do this if there is too much neg. Camber in the rear. Usually -1 deg or less works best with -0.5 being nominal.
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Old 02-15-2003, 03:50 PM   #26
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Default Pro2 Help

I normally don't post at all. But I was a long time member of the HPI forum, and seeing this sounds distressing.

I just want to get some clearification on what you mean by Hooking in the Corner ? Sounds like you have oversteering. If this is what you mean.

When you say you have mechanically the least amount of steering ... what do you mean ? As in you have dialed out so much steering but still have tons.

This sounds like a classic Pro2 problem where you have dialed in way too much steering, Its been suggested taht you go back to a stock setup and work from there. I would agree with this except I would say get a set of Yellow Progressive HPI springs, or an equivalent spring from another company. The stock springs are way too soft for setting up your car.

Also try going with less toe in the rear ... and more Toe in up front.


Hopefully you can get it back to what it should be

C
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Old 02-15-2003, 07:08 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by AP
Actually we run on prepared concrete, however the car demonstrates the same hooking if driven on asphalt, prepared concrete, or carpet. Thats why its so baffiling. Caster is set up at 8 degrees and I have tried from 0 to 2 degrees of camber in 1/2 degree increments. Rear toe is 2 degrees right now but I have tried 0 1 and now 2 degrees. You all have had really good ideas and thanks for the input. I will be rebuilding the car one more time tonight, going with the kit setup, but if it does not work this Saturday I know where the closest trash can is. The car has been raced a total of 12 times even by other drivers, rebuilt by other drivers in the club, checked by the 1/12th scale guys for tweek on their boards, shocks are all the same and I have tried oil from 20 to 80 wt in all combinations front to rear. I do not run a one-way. So here I am, with a car which I paid a lot for that can't be driven. It seems as if it has an evil spirit about it. Any other input would be great guys. THANKS AP
If possible try less caster. Running more caster will allow the car to steer harder into the corner of power, which could be the reason why your car hooks going into the corner off power. I don't nor have I ever driven an HPI car, but these are the basics.
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Last edited by Fred Hubbard; 02-15-2003 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 02-15-2003, 07:56 PM   #28
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have you tried shift the weight a bit forward? at 40/60 you may be doing what has been described to me as cracking a whip. once you get some rotational inirtia in the corner, the back end will continue to come around while the front stays relatively planted. had a similar problem in my losi, moved the batt forward and the problem went away.
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Old 02-16-2003, 04:33 AM   #29
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Check if the front wheels are scratched on the inside !

On the Sport2, the flange shafts (A280a) sometimes catchs the wheels on the inside. However, the Pro2 usually uses an axle (6280) with 2 x e-clips, so I dont know for sure if it's an issue on the Pro2 also.
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Old 02-16-2003, 08:16 PM   #30
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Default Re: Pro2 Help

Quote:
Originally posted by LaxRacer
I normally don't post at all. But I was a long time member of the HPI forum, and seeing this sounds distressing.

I just want to get some clearification on what you mean by Hooking in the Corner ? Sounds like you have oversteering. If this is what you mean.

When you say you have mechanically the least amount of steering ... what do you mean ? As in you have dialed out so much steering but still have tons.

This sounds like a classic Pro2 problem where you have dialed in way too much steering, Its been suggested taht you go back to a stock setup and work from there. I would agree with this except I would say get a set of Yellow Progressive HPI springs, or an equivalent spring from another company. The stock springs are way too soft for setting up your car.

Also try going with less toe in the rear ... and more Toe in up front.


Hopefully you can get it back to what it should be

C
First of all I want to thank all of you who have responded. After 16 hrs. yesterday and 12 hrs today working on this problem, I still believe this car is crap, and a lot of hard erned cash down the drain. Since 8 AM Saturday morning until midnight, and again from 8 AM this morning until 8 PM tonight the car has had every set of springs, and every weight of shock oil used in every combination, been rebuilt from the ground up 4 times by 4 indivduals, had every set of tires any club member has had with them had the diffs rebuilt each time the car was built plus two other times and still nothing. Club members who have competed at a national level in every class have tried and failed to find a problem. All of the suggestions I got here were tried, and I'm sorry to say nothing worked. Even with the best drivers in the club driving, if the car goes into a corner the very instant the throttle is lighhten of brakes applied it hooks ( is loose, overstears, what ever makes sence, it spins out) and I quite frankly am done. Next week I'm going to try a new car, although I'm not sure which one yet. To anyone fro HPI who may see this post. You guys got my money twice ( the sport and then the Pro2) but never again. This experience has nearly caused me to quit racing. The only reason I wont is that it give me a chance to race with my sons, one of whom is quit ill. Until they are done I will stck it out but not with HPI. Any of you guys have any suggestions on which car I should consider getting? Thanks in advance. AP
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