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Old 10-10-2006, 12:17 PM   #31
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Let me know if you haven't put them on yet and you're coming to Willis, I'll show you how I have them on my 4 cell packs I use on my CK...
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Old 10-10-2006, 12:26 PM   #32
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if you get a chance snap off a pic for me

willis is a far hall for me and i dont drive unless it has a remote
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Old 10-10-2006, 01:02 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PitNamedGordie
I believe the new verison of the Orion V2 endbell has them. Also Integy sells these for any motor

Integy A

Integy B


Awesome. Too bad all of my motors (other than stocks) are Checkpoints. Guess I'll have to wait a bit longer. Great idea, though.
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Old 10-10-2006, 01:59 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
Awesome. Too bad all of my motors (other than stocks) are Checkpoints. Guess I'll have to wait a bit longer. Great idea, though.
Its really easy to solder the smaller euro plugs on the checkpoints the way the soldering tabs are. One lays down and the other stands up and then they are both facing the same direction. Works really well for me
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Old 10-10-2006, 02:04 PM   #35
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That's a pretty good idea. I might have to try that... thanks for the tip!
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Old 10-10-2006, 02:38 PM   #36
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Sorry about the crap picture, my dodgy mobile phone

Don't know how to get the pictures full size in the message boxes

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corrally connectors-photo-0078.jpg   corrally connectors-photo-0079.jpg  
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:49 PM   #37
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I've been using corraly tubes on my motors for ages, saves soooo much hassle.

I also have tubes on my batts...
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:52 PM   #38
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i have to see if my local shop can order them in bulk
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Old 10-11-2006, 12:12 AM   #39
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get two packets of these:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTJ26&P=7

you need 4 males for you esc, and you solder all the females to motors/ batts.

these ones also have a base to them so you cant accidently put you batt in upside down and then blow your esc from reverse polarity (small puff of smoke, followed by much swearing, which has happened to me)
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:59 AM   #40
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I've been using them on my motors and batteries for the past two years. Been burnt too many times rushing a solder job before a race...the iron stays in the bag on race day.

Here are the ones I use:

http://www.rchobbies.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=2102

I use the female ends on both sides of the battery (colored wires that are specifically routed to the correct battery end saves explosions), and only on the motor negative. I've found that its much easier to connect the wrong motor wires if you don't flip flop the connectors between + & - .
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Old 10-11-2006, 04:12 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
I've been using them on my motors and batteries for the past two years. Been burnt too many times rushing a solder job before a race...the iron stays in the bag on race day.

Here are the ones I use:

http://www.rchobbies.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=2102

I use the female ends on both sides of the battery (colored wires that are specifically routed to the correct battery end saves explosions), and only on the motor negative. I've found that its much easier to connect the wrong motor wires if you don't flip flop the connectors between + & - .
Yeah, I have considered using 3.5mm plugs for +ve and 4mm plugs for -ve, (or vice versa) to ensure that there is no chance of reverse polirity, but I havnt got around to it yet...
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Old 10-11-2006, 04:53 PM   #42
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hi there,

here in the netherlands almost everybody uses these simple connectors. cheap and efficient.

actually, i stopped using them for a very strange reason. i solderd like good tubes on my batts for my b4 and after a couple minutes my car would suddenly stop. also in my T2 with the same style of connectors i;ve had problems like my car suddenly stopping. a smal hit to the - connector would solve it and i resumed driving.
actually the male connectors get oxidated or something gets there so no current can flow anymore. in my b4 the connectors got so hot they desoldered themselves right in my car while driving.
hered from other guys that they replace the male connectors every 2 months for these reasons. i started soldering, just as easy if you got your solderstation switched on....

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Old 10-11-2006, 05:35 PM   #43
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They don't oxidize in an R/C car, they are gold plated. The spring connector in the male gets worn/flexed/compressed from constant plugging and unplugging. A simple stab through the sides of the plug "folds" with an Exacto knife will open the spring back up a little bit and make them as tight as new. No need to EVER replace those things.


Gonna have to find some of those stubby ones for my motors. I like that idea. No more soldering iron needed at the track. Schweeeeeeet.
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Old 10-11-2006, 07:30 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexSpeed
They don't oxidize in an R/C car, they are gold plated. The spring connector in the male gets worn/flexed/compressed from constant plugging and unplugging. A simple stab through the sides of the plug "folds" with an Exacto knife will open the spring back up a little bit and make them as tight as new. No need to EVER replace those things.


Gonna have to find some of those stubby ones for my motors. I like that idea. No more soldering iron needed at the track. Schweeeeeeet.
I only replace them every 3 months for piece of mind.

Same here on the stubby ones for a little less weight to the motor...
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Old 10-16-2006, 11:45 PM   #45
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i forgot to ask what mm do you use on 12awg wire

2mm 2.5mm or larger

i just noticed alot of comanies make them in different sizes


thanks again
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