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Old 02-07-2003, 09:54 AM   #1
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Solder

what is the best solder to Solder Motor Leads,
Speed Control Leads and Batteries Together?
it has to be a good solder for Silver and Gold Plated Surfaces..
what does sn60/40 mean?
should i use lead free solder?
is silversolder better?
plz help..
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Old 02-07-2003, 10:08 AM   #2
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Don't worry too much about solder. The 60/40 rosin core (NOT acid core) solder will work well. The 'silver' solder is only 2% silver and costs twice as much as standard 60/40.

Worry about your soldering iron. Get a good one. Get at least a 60 watt iron and you'll make your life even easier if you get an adjustable one (hakko, weller). They last a long time and make soldering much easier.
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Old 02-07-2003, 10:31 AM   #3
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and always remember... less is better. The actual wire touching the motor lead conducts electricity way better than the solder itself.
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Old 02-07-2003, 10:31 AM   #4
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I agree with you. The purchase of my Hakko Solerdering iron was one of the best investments i made. You will be surprised by how much easier it is to solder with a good iron.

Good luck!
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Old 02-07-2003, 11:15 AM   #5
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Default battery assembly

Battery packs are the hardest to solder together. There are a couple of threads here with some very good information in them.
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Old 02-07-2003, 01:29 PM   #6
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ok
i should go with sn60pb40 solder?
or sn60pb38cu2 ?
allways with rosin core, and about 1mm dimeter, right?
but what about silver solder, i spennd 200$ for a speedo with very low resistance, so i will spend 5$ more for good solder
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Old 02-07-2003, 02:04 PM   #7
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Honestly, silver solder won't make a very noticable(if it's noticable at all) difference. The point of soldering in the first place is to join 2 materials together, not have anything between them. The more solder is between the objects you're soldering, the more resistance you'll have to deal with, so it's best to use as little solder as possible & be able to do it as quickly as possible. That's an advantage for regular 60/40 solder, as it's melting point is slightly lower than silver solder(which means you can use a bit less & it'll flow quickly, which is also easy on things like batteries that are sensitive to extreme heat). As for the diameter of the stuff, I'd use the thinnest stuff you can get, so you'll have more precise control over just how much you use. Just make sure that the 2 surfaces you're connecting(like battery bar to battery, for example)are making solid contact when you apply heat & solder, if you did everything right, you won't notice if you used silver solder or not(& in case you're wondering how I might know anything about this, I work on electronics for a living as an avionics technician).....
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Old 02-07-2003, 04:14 PM   #8
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i have a very big amout of solder, wich is about 20 years old, can i still use it? or is the quality bad now?
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Old 02-07-2003, 07:09 PM   #9
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Just go to your local Radioshack and get a 1 lb spool of 60/40 rosin core solder for around $12. That you last you a long time. For soldering tips, check www.balakracing.com, very informative.
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Old 02-07-2003, 07:25 PM   #10
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I am planning on soldering my first battery pack in a few days or a week. I gotta order my stuff from tower. I am geting a soldering iron. ( i dont think it very good...cant be it only 6.99 LOL but good enuff for starting i guess ) the connectors and solder....... wire to i giess im really gonna experament on like duracell C-cells before i do it on a 10 dallar battery!
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Old 02-07-2003, 07:44 PM   #11
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Default Soldering iron

If you think you are going to be doing electric for a long time, invest in a good iron. It will help you avoid soldering "pains". If you are in it enough to get $10/ a cell battery pack, then a good iron should be on you list. Big Jim (motor guru) uses this TQ 77
http://www.bomir.com/online/goot/tq_series.htm
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Old 02-07-2003, 07:56 PM   #12
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Well, i saw a battery cell that went for 38.99 and one for friggin 45.99 on tower, or was that for 6? I dunno but i figured about 10$ - 60 bucks for me to make a 6 cell pack wouuld be pretty good. But whats the difference? All they do is get hot and melt stuffs right?
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Old 02-07-2003, 08:55 PM   #13
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The price had to be for 6 cells Don't gimp yourself on the iron though. A cheap iron can make assembling cells frustrating to say the least. You want a hot iron, the link elnitro gave is a good one. If the iron doesn't get hot enough then you have to leave it on the cell longer for the solder to melt. This isn't good. You want to solder to melt quickly thus keeping the cell cooler. Hope this helps
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Old 02-08-2003, 09:44 PM   #14
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Thanx
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