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Old 09-26-2006, 01:46 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteB
yeah, the reason for the question was that the motor I was using was going well, and didnt just 'fade'. it completely stopped (at about 4 min), coming out of a corner it just stopped within a distance of 10m, no warning, middle of the track (car would not move at all), nothing was jammed in the motor, after it had cooled down it seems to work ok again
that sounds more like the esc thermaling or shutting down from getting to hot. a motor would normally not stop w/o smoke coming out or fading. if the motor plain stopped the esc went into thermal protection, especially if you said you let it cool and then i ran fine.

-Zac
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Old 09-26-2006, 02:35 PM   #17
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I have a temp gun.....am I considered a pro?

I never pay attention to motor temps on the maximum side.....if the motor is not fading, I don't care if its 2000 degrees, as long as its fast and stays fast through the whole run....(you will always get a little fade, but you don't want to go from 10.2s to 10.9s..... .3 at max usually....

If your motor is undergeared, the comm will often be red or orange.....if its overgeared, it will be blue or purple....

If the motor worked after it just stopped....thats the ESC....motors don't have a shut down.....they will run till they blow up and then they will not work anymore.

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Old 09-26-2006, 03:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteB
Thanks for your input Faiz, the sensor is installed inside the heatsink and does not have air flow over it, but yes I would expect it to be a few degrees lower. I have to pick an actual temp figure to input into the system, so maybe 60c will do until I figure out something else.

Comm is ok, the wind indicator (not sure what it is made of) is slightly burnt around the edges

Has anyone ever used an infra red temp sensor to measure the surface temp of a motor just after it has overheated and cooked itself?
My motor's always seem to be about 82-88 deg C (176-190 degrees straight after a run (Monster Stock outside or in warm conditions) and thats the limit.

I would set your alarm for the actual motor to be no hotter than 85 deg C.

You'll have to work out how much difference there typically is between the actual motor and your heatsink.

Are you niticing any problems when the heatsink reaches 75 deg C, are your lap times dropping etc.

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Old 09-26-2006, 03:46 PM   #19
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heh, we used to run mosters with fans on them at 180 degrees, without fans...ouch..who knows. 220??
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Old 09-26-2006, 05:36 PM   #20
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I have a problem that my (training) brushes turn bleu al the time.I run modified ,it al started since the batteries are getten better. I drive indoor whit a 12T motor and FDR 7,52. When i use FDR 7,93 then i can drive faster laps but then my brushes tunr even more bleu.
Now i buy expensive Silver corally brushes wich dont change color but i dont like the pricetag of it just for training.
When i use normal brushes witch are bleu and i dont change them,what can i expect then?
Will it hurt my comm or will it only drop in performance?
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieO

If your motor is undergeared, the comm will often be red or orange......
I think you have just tought me something .
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z.Hallett
that sounds more like the esc thermaling or shutting down from getting to hot. a motor would normally not stop w/o smoke coming out or fading. if the motor plain stopped the esc went into thermal protection, especially if you said you let it cool and then i ran fine.

-Zac
Not the ESC, I run a Futaba MC800C v2 (takes motors down to 5 turns), with a large cap, it never even gets warm. the motor in question is a 27t stock...
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Old 09-26-2006, 08:13 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
heh, we used to run mosters with fans on them at 180 degrees, without fans...ouch..who knows. 220??
Yes, if positioned right, one onboard fan can bring temps down by 10-15 degrees. You can pre-game your motor with a super cooler before your race to keep power from dropping off sooner than later.
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteB
Not the ESC, I run a Futaba MC800C v2 (takes motors down to 5 turns), with a large cap, it never even gets warm. the motor in question is a 27t stock...
PeteB, if not ESC, then I suspect brush is hung up inside the hood (too short or can't move freely),

I remember another tips from the late Big Jim beside reading comm and brush color,
that its is good to start with very cold motor, whether pre-cooled with rag/chamois/baby socks wrap around motor (..see John Stranahan thread..) soaked in ice/water (its messy though..) or sophisticated mm motor cooler,
copper resistance will goes down on lower temp > motor will run faster (more efficient) on start and temp cooler on finish,
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Old 10-02-2006, 08:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Yes, if positioned right, one onboard fan can bring temps down by 10-15 degrees.
I have a fan on my heat sink, should it be blowing cool air onto the heat sink, or drawing warm air away. The factory setting is to draw warm air away, but I would have thought that blowing cool air onto the heat sink would have been better??
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:18 PM   #26
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have the fan blowing away to suck out air from the vents or you can put it over the endbell and blow air into the end bell
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Old 10-02-2006, 09:49 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteB
I have a fan on my heat sink, should it be blowing cool air onto the heat sink, or drawing warm air away. The factory setting is to draw warm air away, but I would have thought that blowing cool air onto the heat sink would have been better??
just my thought, I prefer fan blowing cool air downward onto heatsink fins, IMO this layout may forced cool air pass through heatsink fins, more effective cooling,

I just notice that this may have the risk dirt or dust collected at the bottom of heatsink, so then heatsink may need periodical cleaning with small brush,

I've done that on my old Novak old SS ESC, I use muchmore motor fan (25x25mm) gap between fan and heatsink about 2-3 mm,
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