skypilot

iTrader: (14)

fred, aka frank, you coming to FW tomorrow

StickyFingaz

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the advice guys... i will be sure to rebuild the thrust bearing assembly, as that's probably what is causing the grittiness.

Also, looks like i'll pick up the front roll bar set first.

C_O_jones

iTrader: (11)

Fred will bring Frank, or is that Frank will bring Fred
Will be there.
Fred aka Frank

RocketRacer

quick question here, i am gonna be building my new T2'007 in a day or 2. i just want to know if i need to disassemble the diff and lube it or can i just put in straight in and adjust it when i am running the car in??

Mr. MR4

iTrader: (8)

Rocket Racer,

Just open up the diff and put in some more grease that comes with the kit on the diff balls & rings.

t4m1y4niac

is the factory pre built diff not good enough??

Mr. MR4

iTrader: (8)

Yes it is good enough - they last two new diffs I had didnt seem to have enough grease on them.

RocketRacer

thanks guys, but i got my answer from XRAY Support. their online support is awesome. i always get a response very quickly. and this is so detailed and accurate that i didn't even have any extra questions afterwards. i am more and more impressed with XRAY. here's their response to my question.

"Dear Sir

Thank you for your email and your interest in Xray products.

The differential has been built per factory specifications and this way it has been build for several years by well trained factory assembly staff with great results. The diffs are being build and set-up for ultra smooth operation. All factory team drivers have been using the original diffs without modification or re-assembly which is a proof that the diffs are build ready for any high competition conditions. There is a thin and sufficient layer of grease put on the large diff shims, there is sufficient amount of grease applied on the carbide balls and there is sufficient amount of grease applied on the axial bearing as well.

You will not find any extra amount of grease in the differential because XRAY differential has been build for smooth operation and features only the neccessary, appropriate and sufficient amount of the grease. If a large amount of grease would be applied, this will make the operation of the differential not as smooth and efficient like it is now - built per factory specifications.

Moreover XRAY differentials feature the XRAY Dust-Covers which seals the differential perfectly and no or very minimum of dust can get into the differential. Therefore even a small amount of grease is sufficient to make the differential work smoothly and perfectly for a long time.

Please note that XRAY has been using a very special grease which is very thin and transparent so it may look the differential is dry. XRAY strongly suggest NOT to use any other grease than the original XRAY grease.

To summarize the answer - XRAY differentials are NOT dry. If you do not see any overflowing amount of grease in the differential do not worry, your differential has been built properly with thin and sufficient layer of thin grease for smooth operation of the differential. If you believe you need more grease than is the factory standard, then please use the included grease in your kit but remember that a larger amount of grease may make the differential run not that smooth. You can purchase the XRAY Grease under part number #30 9500 Silicone Grease

At the end, please remember if you want your differential to last long you need to break-in the differential properly: When you rebuild your diff, even if you use the same diff rings and diff balls, or start using a new diff it is best if you take the time to run it in before tightening it beyond a loose setting. A well run in diff will last many weeks racing without needing a rebuild. Moreover it will run smoother throughout that period. In fact if well broken in the XRay diffs will feel smoother than some of the one-ways on other cars...

So how do you break in a diff?

Well the trick is to run the diff very loose the first time you run it. If your first run is during a qualifier then try and aim for the loosest possible setting where the diff does not slip ON THE TRACK. The latter is in bold because a diff that is set so that you can still push through it a bit manually will usually not slip or only slip the first two laps on the track!

If you have the luxury of running in the diff during practice you may want to run the diff slightly more loose still so it slips slightly throughout the run. Don't overdrive the car.

Ideally for the second and third run you only tighten the diff a little bit compared to the previous run to allow the diff to get fully seated in. After that you can tighten it further to medium or even tight settings if necessary.

If I can help you in any other way just let us know. We will be more than happy to assist you or help you out.

XRAY MODEL RACING CARS

www.teamxray.com

[email protected]"

cvt01

iTrader: (2)

Yes this is nice, add to that that they only had to open their knowledge base/FAQ topic on their forum and use the copy+paste function
http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?t=1315

That shows how small is the difference between good customer support and bad one...

RobS

Is it just me, or does the Xray website seem to be down?

PitCrew

Not trying to shoot you down, and I may be wrong but; i would NOT sand the diff rings. Although a "honed" finish can help increase laminar flow, the viscosity of the grease and the very small contact patch between the ball and the ring will eliminate any aid that may be created. Furthermore, honed is different than sanded. When you sand a material, you are scratching it many many times per stroke. On metal, a manifestation called "Proud Metal" is produced. (Honing also creates proud metal, but less, and "Flex Honing" makes almost none but is not possible on a flat surface, more like a bore) To your finger the surface feels very smooth, but the sand paper has infact made many many small grooves in the surface pushing up material on the outter edges of the grooves. When the diff operates, the carbide balls will wear some of this material off. So, you will be indroducing very fine particals of material into the lube (the proud metal wearing off) and I would think over a short period of time this could hinder any benefit you may think you have acheived from sanding in the first place...

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I've had mixed results when sanding. Almost every time I get high spots in the diff rings when I sand them... so it gets tight.. then gets loose when you rotate it. To me.. thats really annoying lol. So I just replace the rings... I've never had an xray diff ring that wasnt perfect straight from the package.

-Korey

magerp

Please help me. The screws on my FK04 and T2 stick when screwed into the bulkheads. The screws I use are the stock shiny metal ones for the FK04 and the hard coated black screws for the T2. What tips are for preventing this? Will a drop of oil help or some wax? I will be upgrading to titanium in the future, will the Ti screws stick?

C_O_jones

iTrader: (11)

The screws stick to the carbon fiber, CA the countersunk holes on the CF to prevent the sticking.

PitCrew

That should help, but remember, CA the countersunk holes BEFORE putting the screw in, letting it dry!! Not while the screw is in or with the bulkheads attached as the CA can seep through onto the bulkhead.... HAHA

DO NOT use oil on the threads. and maybe you are tightening them TOO tight. (Which will surely happen if you lubricate the thread because friction holds the screws in, and by lubricating you make it easier to overtighten) I could go into a whole bit about thread deformation.......but will refrain.