jrr102486

iTrader: (8)

ya i know all about that. im going to school for drafting and design and that my friend is a lot of play believe it or not. i dont have my car yet but i do know from experience stick with what the factory gives you, unless some one makes a direct replacement. just my 2 cents.

Turbonium

iTrader: (27)

you might try these... i have a couple, but havent needed them yet.

http://www.axiommotors.com/thrust-bearing-p-132.html

GK

Nothing special about the tool, regular retaining ring pliers (with small tips) to remove the inner retaining ring.
Part number 57805A33 from mcmaster.com should do the job...

Balancing tool actually works great to balance chassis side to side and it's cheap compared to set of scales.

So you're going electric now?

Big B

iTrader: (4)

They do work great for balancing the car L to R, I also use them on my Hyperform 1/12th which has centerline holes at each end of the chassis. Now that Korey pointed out the Body Marker Thingies from Tinity I have 3 sets of balancing tools, Thanks Korey

Big B

iTrader: (4)

Ooops, I didn't mean to repeat you, I was in the middle of replying and got busy with something else before I finished Sorry

cvt01

iTrader: (2)

Last time I had to change those I used corally thrust bearing. It has carbide balls , the washers come with it are little bit thinner than xray's so I used only the bearing and turned the original washers upside down. it worked flawless.
The corally thing is well under $10 AFAIK.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Thanks GK. Yeah, I'm getting into electric. I picked up a used T2 '007 EU version yesterday - STLNLST's. I was debating what Nitro car to get next after selling the MTX-4 (still have the two RRRs). I couldn't make up my mind between the NT1 and 720 '07 - so I decided to try something totally different.

THE DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

Losi also makes a thrust bearing assembly that work on the T2 series cars. I posted the part number on this thead a few pages back. I think that it's about $5 and probably on the wall at your local hobby shop

-E

adamge

iTrader: (1)

Tonight I swapped nearly all the stock screws in my 007s to aluminum.

Screws were from: www.fastener-express.com
Example Aluminum screw: http://www.fastener-express.com/inde...OD&ProdID=2257

Keeping in mind that I have two 007s, so I need twice as many screws, here's what I ordered and what I ended up using.

M3 X .5 X 6MM Flat Head Cap Screw Alum. 50 Pieces AFHM3006-3G3 Qty: 1 x $8.72 [Used all of them, will take another 12 to get me in full carpet configuration]
M3 X .5 X 10MM Flat Head Cap Screw Alum 50 Pieces FHM3010-3G3 Qty: 1 x $9.14 [Used about 20]
M3 X .5 X 6MM Button Head Cap Screw Alum. 50 Pieces ABHM3006-3G6 Qty: 2 x $8.61 [Note quantity=2. Used about 80 of them]
M3 X .5 X 10MM Button Head Cap Screw Alum. 50 Pieces ABHM3010-3G6 Qty: 1 x $9.14 [Used 25 of them]
M3 X .5 X 14MM Button Head Cap Screw Alum. 50 Pieces ABHM3014-3H1 Qty: 1 x $9.56 [Used 8 of them]

From what I learned, I would place the same order but without the 14mm buttons. At most you can use 4/car, and if you to 3mm of shims on the rear hub (common carpet setup) you'll want 16mm bolts instead.

Here's a list of the steel M3 screws left in the cars:
-all 8 hingepin holder M3x16, because I've bent like four of these, so definitely not a place for Aluminum.
-all 3 layshaft-spur M3x5 bolts, because they don't have M3x5
-the M3x5 upper deck bolt

I was able to replace every M3 except those ones with the aluminums listed above. In some cases I ended up with shorter or longer Al screws, because I didn't have a complete selection (like M3x8 in button and countersunk), but they all seem OK.

Weight savings on the chassis from this screw change: 25 grams on one car, 28 grams on the other. There is a difference because the 28g car runs battery bumpers and a battery strap, so had a few more screws to swap.

No head or thread stripping issues. Frankly, these Al fasteners are surprisingly nice, and aren't easy to deform and strip like the blue Als that came with the FTTC4. I used a good driver (Integy Ti), and I'm a happy guy.

Cheaper than titanium. I probably should have pointed that out earlier. I spent $54 for enough screws for two cars and tons of extras. Titaniums would have set me back like $130, and I wouldn't have spares.

-Adam

Big B

iTrader: (4)

Good Luck, I have had enough issues with Aluminum Screws in the past to chance it, but hopefully they work out

RocketRacer

i just got my T2'007 today!!! woohoo!!!!

do you uys have any tips for the build process? anything that i should look out for? this is my first XRAY kit, so it will be a new experience for me. i am amazed at how much of literature is in the box. the details and quality of that alone is awesome!!

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h4...6072007245.jpg

GTRtuned

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=RocketRacer;3520809]i just got my T2'007 today!!! woohoo!!!!

do you uys have any tips for the build process? anything that i should look out for? this is my first XRAY kit, so it will be a new experience for me. i am amazed at how much of literature is in the box. the details and quality of that alone is awesome!!

Welcome Rocket Racer! The T-2 007 is a great car and I'm sure you'll be happy with it. Make sure you oil the bearings and CA the edge of the chassis and you'll be fine. You can also use some set-up help off of this link:

http://forum.teamxray.com/xsheets.php

I heard Barry Baker and Ralph Burch's set-up was dialed at the Asphalt Nats. Have Fun!...

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

Just build the car. It's an X-Ray and their quality is second to none. Fit and finish will be perfect.

RocketRacer

thanks guys!!

v8ruary 94

Hello..... i'm from indonesia. great T2'007!!!! in my country.. mayority t2'007 user name their car" T-BOND' because the numbe r007 is same as james bond code..i've using xray too.but i use T1FK 05..That's great car too